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Old 08-16-2010, 07:03 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Looks like you guys are going to have to go old school and glue your donuts.
Here is the tool to make that job a lot easier.

Kimbrough tire horn


http://www.windtunnelracingproducts....9d487c0fcb987f

Thanks just ordered one!
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Old 08-16-2010, 09:08 PM   #92
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Any advice on best way to mount the donuts??? section at time or pull them back? what cement worked for you?
I used Selleys Kwik Grip, I put a nice layer inside the donut and then on the rim, while still slippery and just put the donut on from the back side of the rim half on and man handled the other side and because the contact cement wasnt tacky yet and on both surfaces it allowed me to just slide the tire down and into place.

If the glue got tacky i just added a bit more to keep the slip levels up.

Gave it about 2 hours and then popped it on the tire truer cleaned the messy glue of the surface and cut the excess wall off the rear.
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Old 08-16-2010, 11:58 PM   #93
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I used Selleys Kwik Grip, I put a nice layer inside the donut and then on the rim, while still slippery and just put the donut on from the back side of the rim half on and man handled the other side and because the contact cement wasnt tacky yet and on both surfaces it allowed me to just slide the tire down and into place.

If the glue got tacky i just added a bit more to keep the slip levels up.

Gave it about 2 hours and then popped it on the tire truer cleaned the messy glue of the surface and cut the excess wall off the rear.

I believe the old skool method was to apply Kwik Grip to both surfaces, allow it to become tacky, give the rim, the donut and the tire horn a quick spray of metho and quickly push the donut over the horn onto the rim, the metho made everything nice and slippery, and evaporated away within minutes, leave to dry completely then true.
This bond actually gives a far better glued tire, and resists chunking a lot more than preglued tires which are bonded with only CA.
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Old 08-17-2010, 12:24 AM   #94
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here are the wheels
New Yokomo wheels look very very cool. Having to glue your own tyres on, very very uncool.
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Old 08-17-2010, 12:39 AM   #95
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New Yokomo wheels look very very cool. Having to glue your own tyres on, very very uncool.
I H.A.T.E. GLUING 1/12 TIRES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 08-17-2010, 12:52 AM   #96
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Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
I believe the old skool method was to apply Kwik Grip to both surfaces, allow it to become tacky, give the rim, the donut and the tire horn a quick spray of metho and quickly push the donut over the horn onto the rim, the metho made everything nice and slippery, and evaporated away within minutes, leave to dry completely then true.
This bond actually gives a far better glued tire, and resists chunking a lot more than preglued tires which are bonded with only CA.
Thanks for the tip, it was my first attempt and i did let one get tacky first but it wasnt going to get onto the rim that way so i did them quickly while fresh cement was in place.
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Old 08-17-2010, 06:52 AM   #97
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I H.A.T.E. GLUING 1/12 TIRES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
glue is one problem.
The next problem is buy a tire cutting machine (quite expensive) and cut the tire to correct diameter!!!!
Do forget to have two different adaptor for front & rear wheel.
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Old 08-17-2010, 07:46 AM   #98
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Nope, that is the same adapter for front & rear. The one I have trues even 1/12 & 1/10 pancar wheels so...

But let's be honest here, if you are just a little fanatic in 12th scale racing you have a tire truer...
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Old 08-17-2010, 09:53 AM   #99
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Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
I believe the old skool method was to apply Kwik Grip to both surfaces, allow it to become tacky, give the rim, the donut and the tire horn a quick spray of metho and quickly push the donut over the horn onto the rim, the metho made everything nice and slippery, and evaporated away within minutes, leave to dry completely then true.
This bond actually gives a far better glued tire, and resists chunking a lot more than preglued tires which are bonded with only CA.
You are exactly correct, Besercoe!

Mounting your own rubber was the only way many years ago. A good quality contact cement like the kind cabinet makers use to glue down laminate surfaces works best.
1. Coat the entire inside of the donut and the outside of the rim.
2. Let the contact cement set up for a couple of hours.
3. Now here is where it gets messy and is not good health wise and probably the main reason wheel manufactures went to a super glue process. Dip the entire donut and wheel with the tire horn on the wheel, in a solvent that has a high evaporation rate. I always used lacquer thinner but you can see how unhealthy that might be.
4. While both the foam, wheel and tire horn are still wet, slip the foam over the wheel. The solvent will act as a lubricant and allow the foam to slip onto the wheel evenly and without difficulty.
5.Take a length of 1" x 2" wood trim (I used to use a 15" wooden ruler) and roll the foam and wheel while pressing down on the foam. This squeegees out the excess solvent and removes any gaps or bubbles between the foam and the wheel. Most foam donuts are wider than the wheel. Make sure you center the foam on the wheel especially if there is a seam in the foam or you can bias the seam to the inside or the outside of the wheel as a tuning aid. Just make sure you do all wheels the same way and you leave enough hanging over the edge of the wheel to allow for truing.
6.After they have dried for a day or two, mount them up in a tire truer and cut of the excess hanging over each side of the wheel and true to the desired diameter.

Also, if you are mounting dual compound foam, make sure that that all of the wheels you mount have the same amount of the outside compound on each wheel. You don’t want front wheels with 1/8th “ of the firmer compound on one wheel and a ½” of the firmer compound on another front wheel. This can also be a tuning aid.

Mounting foam this way is really pretty easy and quick but can be messy and will make for a much better bond between foam and wheel. Much better than what we get now on pre-mounted wheels that use supper glue. You will notice less peeling between foam and wheel and even less chunking.
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Old 08-17-2010, 03:30 PM   #100
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a slightly less messy way to wet the tire and wheel with solvent.......I kepy my lacquer thinner in a plastic catsup squeeze bottle (like they used to use in old school restaurants). With that bottle and the small hole in the tip of it, it's easy to squirt a little thinner on the wheel and inside the tire. Then the tire will slide right on the wheel if you work quickly. the plastic tire horns do help to get the tire started since the rubber's I.D. is a fair amount smaller than the plastic wheel's O.D. And another tip....when the rubber is worn out or damaged, if the wheels are still in good shape, it's easy to get the old rubber off. for that, I kept a large coffee can (witht eh plastic snap on lid) full of thinner. Toss the used wheels and tires in there and let them soak overnite. The solvent will dissolve the glue and the old rubber will slide right off, leaving a bare wheel that's ready to receive a new donut. Heck, way back in the day before the cars had ride height adjusters and when we all ran greens on both ends of the car, when my rears got too small, I'd use this method to slide the rear donuts off. After they dried out, I'd mount used rear donuts onto front rims and use the rubber some more. Now that's when RC racing was super cheap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby View Post
You are exactly correct, Besercoe!

Mounting your own rubber was the only way many years ago. A good quality contact cement like the kind cabinet makers use to glue down laminate surfaces works best.
1. Coat the entire inside of the donut and the outside of the rim.
2. Let the contact cement set up for a couple of hours.
3. Now here is where it gets messy and is not good health wise and probably the main reason wheel manufactures went to a super glue process. Dip the entire donut and wheel with the tire horn on the wheel, in a solvent that has a high evaporation rate. I always used lacquer thinner but you can see how unhealthy that might be.
4. While both the foam, wheel and tire horn are still wet, slip the foam over the wheel. The solvent will act as a lubricant and allow the foam to slip onto the wheel evenly and without difficulty.
5.Take a length of 1" x 2" wood trim (I used to use a 15" wooden ruler) and roll the foam and wheel while pressing down on the foam. This squeegees out the excess solvent and removes any gaps or bubbles between the foam and the wheel. Most foam donuts are wider than the wheel. Make sure you center the foam on the wheel especially if there is a seam in the foam or you can bias the seam to the inside or the outside of the wheel as a tuning aid. Just make sure you do all wheels the same way and you leave enough hanging over the edge of the wheel to allow for truing.
6.After they have dried for a day or two, mount them up in a tire truer and cut of the excess hanging over each side of the wheel and true to the desired diameter.

Also, if you are mounting dual compound foam, make sure that that all of the wheels you mount have the same amount of the outside compound on each wheel. You don’t want front wheels with 1/8th “ of the firmer compound on one wheel and a ½” of the firmer compound on another front wheel. This can also be a tuning aid.

Mounting foam this way is really pretty easy and quick but can be messy and will make for a much better bond between foam and wheel. Much better than what we get now on pre-mounted wheels that use supper glue. You will notice less peeling between foam and wheel and even less chunking.
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Old 08-17-2010, 04:27 PM   #101
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Wicked Advice

Definitely going to need it and glad some old school skills are needed

Personally like the idea of gluing my own tires, it is rumoured at the world's some of there success there was due to the tire prep which now includes a world title in it first outing must admit the driver / pit team also helped

12th scale is about skill and drivability but mainly getting power down so happy to glue my own tires if it gives me a little more advantage.
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Old 08-17-2010, 04:40 PM   #102
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Any one know what size bearings the r12 is?
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Old 08-17-2010, 04:48 PM   #103
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You're asking us???

YOU actually have the R12 so I think you can tell US what size bearings it has. I recon it uses normal size 12th scale bearings like the Associated does...
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Old 08-17-2010, 04:51 PM   #104
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Has anyone tried axles from other 12th scales that accept regular wheels?

Anyone who has the new R12 does a RC12 5 axel fit maybe a CRC or Serpent?
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Old 08-17-2010, 05:14 PM   #105
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You're asking us???

YOU actually have the R12 so I think you can tell US what size bearings it has. I recon it uses normal size 12th scale bearings like the Associated does...
The Manual....It all in Japanese!!!!!! Plus I just sold my 12r5 yesterday...Just don't feel like opening the shipping package. I'm trying to Acer ceramic bearing it the stock have too much friction!!!! I went ahead and ordered the acer 12r5 bearing kit plus a non flange 1/4X3/8 for the spur. The Yoke isn't using a flange like the r5 does for the spur. If it doesn't fit Acer is pretty cool about returns... I hate steel screws and stock steel bearings
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