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Old 04-07-2015, 11:08 PM   #721
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I've been running my 12th scale in 10.5 at my local track and recently felt confident enough to step up to a 3.5 boosted. We race indoors and naturally the things fly.

I bought my 3.1 off a mate because they're so hard to find in retail, he's a bit of a nerd when it comes to setups of 12th scale. (I'm typically a touring car guy)
I feel I've got tires sorted from running various brands I think I finally know what does and doesn't work at my local.

Some advice needed on setups if anyone has some answers.
1. What is the best way to check toe without forking out for a setup system
2. My car seems to push heavily and be a little dull on steering mid to exit.
3. Ride out adjusters in the front, does anyone run shims above the springs?

Thanks gurus
1. Setup system IMO is ideal, but you can probably get away with a set of verniers or a steel ruler. But, as I said, the setup system works like a treat. Eagle Racing offers a setup system for cheap. I have it, works well.

http://www.rcmxstore.com/index.php?m...ducts_id=20824

Yokomo has one http://www.rcmxstore.com/index.php?m...ducts_id=27059

Kyosho has one - http://www.rcmxstore.com/index.php?m...ducts_id=28355

Xray has one http://www.rcmxstore.com/index.php?m...ducts_id=22913

2. What's your setup?
Look at moving the steering crank system more forward.

3. What do you mean?
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Old 04-08-2015, 05:50 AM   #722
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No tire sauce? What? That's insane! Most places in Japan use TC-2 + for traction compound. Little to no smell and does the job.

I usually disconnect the rear pod as a whole and just balance the main plate only. Then once the main plate is balanced, I reconnect the rear pod. There's much debate on whether or not to balance the rear pod, but most people don't. I use to, but now I figure it's not worth it.
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You're currently running the lower arm pin in the upper position, so this will give the front end a low roll center and a lot of camber gain in the corners. This can make the car twitchy and difficult to drive. The aforementioned comment is all dependent on the surface your racing on.

I would look at moving the lower pin to the middle hole with 0 mm upper blocks. This will raise your roll center and reduce the amount of camber gain in the corners, and this should smooth out the front end. However, as I said, this is all dependent on the surface your racing on. Then if you like, try and use a 0.5 mm upper block as this will raise the roll center slightly and reduce camber gain but at smaller increments. Larger changes in roll center and camber gain occurs at the lower arm pin location, whereas the upper blocks are slightly less and are generally used for fine tuning.

Front toe out is good - A setup station is important to have IMO. Every little detail counts.

What is you're full setup?

Once we know that we can help you out further.

Iv got a Hudy setup station coming and ill go through the car and list the set up.

The no compound rule is from when the track was in a basketball court and they didn't want it smelling out the place, We are looking at lifting that ban with a control traction compound that everyone must use.
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Old 04-08-2015, 03:01 PM   #723
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If you can't use any compound, try to at least clean them with something between rounds. Something like just soapy water or one of those orange degreasers/cleaners or Fantastic or some such stuff. Even hand cleaner. The tires warm up when running and can get pretty sticky. When they do, they pick up the rubber build up off of the carpet and will steadily get worse and worse.
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Old 04-08-2015, 05:16 PM   #724
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Just posted my c3.1 for sale with a TON of spares
Yokomo R12C3.1
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Old 04-08-2015, 05:18 PM   #725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
1. Setup system IMO is ideal, but you can probably get away with a set of verniers or a steel ruler. But, as I said, the setup system works like a treat. Eagle Racing offers a setup system for cheap. I have it, works well.

http://www.rcmxstore.com/index.php?m...ducts_id=20824

Yokomo has one http://www.rcmxstore.com/index.php?m...ducts_id=27059

Kyosho has one - http://www.rcmxstore.com/index.php?m...ducts_id=28355

Xray has one http://www.rcmxstore.com/index.php?m...ducts_id=22913

2. What's your setup?
Look at moving the steering crank system more forward.

3. What do you mean?
It's a real shame that RCMX store doesn't ship outside of Japan, they have a pretty amazing range.

I think I've found a few issues I did wrong, I'll work on fixing these up and I'll go from there.
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Old 04-08-2015, 05:32 PM   #726
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It's a real shame that RCMX store doesn't ship outside of Japan, they have a pretty amazing range.

I think I've found a few issues I did wrong, I'll work on fixing these up and I'll go from there.
Futaba Pro Shop ships outside of Japan. Really friendly people and you can email in English (simple English). If a part isn't in stock, you can probably place an order.
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Old 04-09-2015, 03:27 AM   #727
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Naoya Kitagawa

There are many drivers who's skills are close to Naoto's.

I would say this young kid - 江袋 兎々. He's fast, but not as fast as Naoto. But, he has a lot of years ahead of him and Naoya will probably be his mechanic in the coming years...

Thanks for this answer.
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Old 04-19-2015, 02:22 AM   #728
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Well after 3 race meets im improving and so is the cars setup now that its balanced and squared up.

Issue now is after so many bumps and learning the setup the ball diff is a little sad.

Im going to strip and clean it and sand the plates.

Question is, is there any advantage to putting 16 balls in instead of the stock 8?

Also is it normal that as the rear tyres wear down to almost if not the same size as the front the car becomes very very taily?

I end up just throwing on brand new rears and the car goes pretty well again.

Compared to a fellow racers xray the yokomo ball diff just feels a bit more notchy.
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Old 04-19-2015, 06:03 AM   #729
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Originally Posted by d.k.vmatt View Post
Well after 3 race meets im improving and so is the cars setup now that its balanced and squared up.

Issue now is after so many bumps and learning the setup the ball diff is a little sad.

Im going to strip and clean it and sand the plates.

Question is, is there any advantage to putting 16 balls in instead of the stock 8?

Also is it normal that as the rear tyres wear down to almost if not the same size as the front the car becomes very very taily?

I end up just throwing on brand new rears and the car goes pretty well again.

Compared to a fellow racers xray the yokomo ball diff just feels a bit more notchy.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SbxnsMngVmo

You should always run atleast 1.0~1.5 mm diameter difference between the front and rear.

Always have 1.0~1.5 mm larger in the rear than the front.
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Old 04-19-2015, 06:18 AM   #730
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I see in your video you run a ball in ever hole, is that your recommended setup?

Also are the any other chassis adjustments to assist in mid to exit corner rear grip? other then throttle modulation?
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Old 04-19-2015, 06:58 AM   #731
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I see in your video you run a ball in ever hole, is that your recommended setup?

Also are the any other chassis adjustments to assist in mid to exit corner rear grip? other then throttle modulation?
Yes, run ceramic differential balls in every hole. Makes a difference.

Also, look into replacing your axle bearings and maybe thrust bearing.

Move the steering links in a more forward position. What's your setup?
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Old 04-24-2015, 06:20 PM   #732
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=E9l1eHeg2bw

This video discusses a small problem I've been encountered with the Yokomo differential. It very well might be an isolated issue.
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Last edited by EDWARD2003; 04-24-2015 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 05-12-2015, 12:30 AM   #733
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Does anyone know where can i get the Team Bomber mod set for R12 C3.1?

Thanks
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Old 05-12-2015, 07:37 AM   #734
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i bought my kyosho set up station from pro futaba, a very nice system.
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Old 05-21-2015, 05:24 PM   #735
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A well known 1/12th scale Japanese company "Morotech" have developed a variety of damper springs for Yokomo's X-shock damper. The only issue with Yokomo's X-shock is the past has been the lack of spring selection.

http://www.morotech.jp/news.htm

click on the link and scroll down a little.
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