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Old 02-07-2015, 03:32 PM   #676
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The purpose of the bellcrank is to get the inner tie-rod ends down low to reduce bump toe without having to run a raised servo. So you get the low cg of a flat mount servo with the better bump toe characteristics of the angled mount.
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Old 02-08-2015, 08:23 AM   #677
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Sweet ride!

Are the turnbuckles angled at all? You want them swept forward slightly or perfectly straight.

Chassis and electronics perfectly balanced?
Front anti-roll bar perfectly flat?
I managed to get it to balance out perfectly. Rotated the battery 180 degrees and shortened up the wires coming off the esc. A slight movement of the reciever and its perfect.
I got some practice time in with it and I prefer the forward servo location over the bellcrank. Aside from the weight savings and reducing the slop of all the extra components of the bellcrank it drives just better for me. Easier and more consistent. I shaved .2 off my laps from the last time I had it out. It's still a new car to me and I still need to play around with setup and tinker with the different tire compounds some more.
I'm still a little faster with my xray but I think I can there with this car
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Old 02-08-2015, 04:06 PM   #678
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
The purpose of the bellcrank is to get the inner tie-rod ends down low to reduce bump toe without having to run a raised servo. So you get the low cg of a flat mount servo with the better bump toe characteristics of the angled mount.


I see most manufactures are still using the forward servo setup, but mounted flat onto the chassis. This will cause bump steer, right? The only way to combat this is to put enough shims on the outer steering block.

Why do manufactures continue to go this route?
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Old 02-08-2015, 04:18 PM   #679
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The lower cg seems to be better than the alternative. Plus bellcranks introduce several more pivot points which means more slop. Plus steering arm geometry has been changed a bit on some cars allowing the outer tie-rod to be raised more than we used to able to do.

As for me, I still like the angled servo for 17.5 or low bite but I'm weird like that . Faster motors and/or high bite I go flat.
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Old 02-08-2015, 04:23 PM   #680
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Oh, there are some pretty big ackerman differences between the three systems as well. Angled will give less ackerman generally, which is why it is still popular in oval. Flat gives more. I suspect a bellcrank would be somewhere in between but I don't have a bellcrank car to test.
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Old 02-10-2015, 10:46 PM   #681
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Default Upper arm orientation

Hello guys, I'm building my R12c3.1 and its been going a little slow with the instructions being in Japanese in all. I can't seem to figure out which side of the front arm goes up. Does the side imprinted with "H" go up or down? What shock piston would be best to start off with? 2 or 3 hole? Going to be running 17.5 blinky at TQ Racing and this is my first 1/12 so I'm just trying to start off with a base setup and go from there. I built the rest of the car according to the instructions.

Last edited by albertv78; 02-10-2015 at 10:57 PM. Reason: removed some nonsense
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:00 PM   #682
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Hello guys, I'm building my R12c3.1 and its been going a little slow with the instructions being in Japanese in all. I can't seem to figure out which side of the front arm goes up. Does the side imprinted with "H" go up or down? What shock piston would be best to start off with? 2 or 3 hole? Going to be running 17.5 blinky at TQ Racing and this is my first 1/12 so I'm just trying to start off with a base setup and go from there. I built the rest of the car according to the instructions.

Have any of you guys tried the TN Racing rear hubs for using regular AE offset wheels? Their site is in Japanese and it doesn't quite translate well for me.

Don't use the TN racing rear hubs. This will only work for the older Yokomo axle setup. The Yokomo wheels are a treat, use them.

Take a look at the photo. The "H" should face up.
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:11 PM   #683
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Thanks for the help Edward. I see the H on the upper arm holder but not the arm. Does this look correct?

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:27 PM   #684
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Looks good to me. To be honest, I've actually never paid any attention to the "H" on the upper arms. It mentions nothing in the manual about it. As long as the opening for the hinge pin is facing the front, I could't see a problem running them with facing down. It doesn't seem to affect the geometry at all. But, I would keep them facing up just for consistency sake. I might do the same, good eye.
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:28 PM   #685
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Have you built the center damper?
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:32 PM   #686
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I did but I'm going to do it again. I'm not happy with the result. My first try I put too much oil and popped the c-clip off. The second time it doesn't have enough oil so it has a dead spot. Hopefully 3rd time is the charm. Any tips?
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:47 PM   #687
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Yes.. This works for me 95% of the time.

1- Fill the damper a little past where the threads start. Take note of the little machined groove in the shock body.
2- Put the piston in and push it down to the bottom.
3 Do 2 or 3 times.. Move the piston up and down to remove any air bubbles that might be trapped.
4- Slide the plastic end piece onto the piston shaft.
5- With your index finger, keep pressure on the piston shaft to prevent it moving up while screwing the plastic end piece on.
6- Before you screw the plastic end piece on, locate the machined groove in the shock body.
7-The machined groove helps channel any excess oil out past a few of the threads and into the sponge, and anything the sponge can't absorb will be cycled through the sponge and push out.
8- When slowly screwing in the plastic end piece, move the shock from a vertical position to a horizontal position. This will give the excess oil a better chance to escape and flow out easily. Go slow, and give the oil a chance to escape.
9- Slowly tighten the plastic piece down and just snug it up, I find you don't really need to tighten it all the way down.
10-Let go of the piston shaft and see what it does. If it moves out a little you're good to go. If it doesn't move that's fine too.

Move the piston back and forth, and listen to hear if there are any bubbles trapped inside.
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:50 PM   #688
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Yes.. This works for me 95% of the time.

1- Fill the damper a little past where the threads start. Take note of the little machined groove in the shock body.
2- Put the piston in and push it down to the bottom.
3 Do 2 or 3 times.. Move the piston up and down to remove any air bubbles that might be trapped.
4- Slide the plastic end piece onto the piston shaft.
5- With your index finger, keep pressure on the piston shaft to prevent it moving up while screwing the plastic end piece on.
6- Before you screw the plastic end piece on, locate the machined groove in the shock body.
7-The machined groove helps channel any excess oil out past a few of the threads and into the sponge, and anything the sponge can't absorb will be cycled through the sponge and push out.
8- When slowly screwing in the plastic end piece, move the shock from a vertical position to a horizontal position. This will give the excess oil a better chance to escape and flow out easily. Go slow, and give the oil a chance to escape.
9- Slowly tighten the plastic piece down and just snug it up, I find you don't really need to tighten it all the way down.
10-Let go of the piston shaft and see what it does. If it moves out a little you're good to go.
OK I will give it shot. Thanks for the writeup.
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Old 02-12-2015, 12:01 PM   #689
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Anybody running the carbon fiber wheel disks or the carbon fiber front arm stiffeners? I have all of them but have yet to use try any
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Old 02-12-2015, 01:54 PM   #690
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I've run the Carbon stiffners, it takes some steering away, but makes the car more consistent, I prefer the stiffners and find steering through other means
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