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Old 02-04-2015, 04:00 PM   #661
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Does everyone use the bell crank setup or have people used the optional holes in the front and mounted the links direct?

My bell crank bearing has a lot of movement in it so I though if I go direct ill have more weight on the front tyres as well as less steering play.
What are the disadvantages?
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Old 02-04-2015, 04:12 PM   #662
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Originally Posted by d.k.vmatt View Post
Does everyone use the bell crank setup or have people used the optional holes in the front and mounted the links direct?

My bell crank bearing has a lot of movement in it so I though if I go direct ill have more weight on the front tyres as well as less steering play.
What are the disadvantages?
I use the optional front mounted holes on my C3.TB, and it works like a charm. After switching from the bell crank setup to the front mounts, I found the car was easier to drive. In some ways, it's all dependent on your track conditions and driving style, I think for low to medium grip conditions front setup is great, for medium to high, I would look at using the bell crank. From what I've read and heard, it's ideal to try and keep the the components weight more rearward, hence the bell crank system. But, I think each setup could be motor dependent. I noticed at last years Japan Nationals, most stock drivers running the Yokomo chassis' were using the forward position. The modified guys were running the bell crank setup. It really comes down to driver preference.

Give both a try and see what you think best suits your driving style.

If you want, I can ask the Yokomo R12 C3 designer and let you know what to use and why.
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Old 02-04-2015, 04:24 PM   #663
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The track I race on is pretty good carpet but has a lot of tight and hairpin turns so I need to focus on steering.

We run 10.5 un boosted.
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Old 02-04-2015, 04:25 PM   #664
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Interesting, I think I'm going to try the servo in the forward position. I don't really like the amount of slop created by the bell crank system anyways. I run 13.5 so I'll post if thoughts after I make the switch.
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Old 02-04-2015, 04:28 PM   #665
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Where are you having the issues with the crank? Where the bearings are housed?

What's your setup? What motor are you using.
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Old 02-05-2015, 05:18 AM   #666
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I wouldn't say they are issues but compared to my other 1/12 car there is s fair amount of slop. I'd say it's due to the amount of parts/ connections using the bellcrank setup. I replaced all of the ball ends and cups which helped. Still seems to be a little in the crank itself.
I run 13.5t Orca, Orca vx3 1s esc, ko propo rsx12 servo, EA lipo
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Old 02-05-2015, 06:20 AM   #667
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This setup works great to remove any slop.
BD7 Ballcups
6 mm diameter shim .10~.50 mm thick.
Concave washer
Pan head screw
Loctite for added security.
Attached Thumbnails
Yokomo R12-image.jpg  
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Old 02-05-2015, 06:33 AM   #668
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I switched over the servo this morning to the more conventional forward position. Saved 8 grams of weight, down to 737g. I'll try to get it out for some practice this weekend.
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Yokomo R12-image.jpg  

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Old 02-05-2015, 04:02 PM   #669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by branover View Post
I switched over the servo this morning to the more conventional forward position. Saved 8 grams of weight, down to 737g. I'll try to get it out for some practice this weekend.
Sweet ride!

Are the turnbuckles angled at all? You want them swept forward slightly or perfectly straight.

Chassis and electronics perfectly balanced?
Front anti-roll bar perfectly flat?
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Old 02-05-2015, 05:04 PM   #670
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Thanks
I managed to get the turnbuckles perfectly straight by trying a couple different things. I ended up using an xray xstiff servo saver with associated ball studs to get it right. I have enough room to sweep them forward slightly with shims if needed.
I need to play around with the electronics placement some more to get the balance perfected but it's close
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Old 02-05-2015, 06:05 PM   #671
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Dammit I gotta stop clicking on this thread. That R12C3 looks really intriguing but the last thing I need is another chassis, another set of batteries and electrics, another set of spares. I'll stick to my F104s. Carrying spares for an X1 and a V2 is enough for me.
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Old 02-05-2015, 10:38 PM   #672
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Quote:
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Front anti-roll bar perfectly flat?
Just for info:
I did a little trick on that one since all AR bars I got (new) were not perfectly straight -> normal, 2 bends on a wire...

On one side of the plastic AR holders I drilled out the hole somewhat and filed the small lug smaller. This way the AR bar can set itself instead of forcing it in position and tweaking the front.

To test: remove AR, rear side springs and rear side damper/ dampertubes.
Set the front springs so the chassis hangs perfectly equally of height (L vs R) at the widest part of the main chassis. Now you know the front springs are set OK.

Install the AR bar and see if the L vs R changes. If it does, the AR bar tweaks the front suspension.
I havent had a problem anymore using that small mod, off course you must take care when tightening the screw that the plastic part doesnt rotate.

Oh yes, why measuring on the widest part of the main chassis:
- That part must be exactly the same since thats where all the weight is...
- Any error in front suspension can be measesured best there in my experience (is for all 1/12th cars), the chassis ist really wide at the front so a tenth difference there means multiple tenths at the widest part (and yes, its where the side links start)
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Old 02-05-2015, 11:25 PM   #673
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I took my car for a bit of a test run this afternoon, well it took some getting used too. Never driven a 1/12 before.

I had crt foams all round soft front medium rear, but switched to soft rear and it helped but I still have a lot of issues getting it out of the corner.

Mid and exit corner rear grip is almost non existent. Any pointers?
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Old 02-05-2015, 11:39 PM   #674
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What setup are you using? Exact setup please.
Radio steering settings?
Tires front and rear?
What's your pod droop?
What's your pod sag?
What's your ride height? Front and rear.
What's your shock oil?
What's your shock spring?
What's your front spring?
What's your camber?
What's your side spring?
What's your tube lube front and rear?
What's your front roll center position?
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Old 02-07-2015, 01:57 PM   #675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
I use the optional front mounted holes on my C3.TB, and it works like a charm. After switching from the bell crank setup to the front mounts, I found the car was easier to drive. In some ways, it's all dependent on your track conditions and driving style, I think for low to medium grip conditions front setup is great, for medium to high, I would look at using the bell crank. From what I've read and heard, it's ideal to try and keep the the components weight more rearward, hence the bell crank system. But, I think each setup could be motor dependent. I noticed at last years Japan Nationals, most stock drivers running the Yokomo chassis' were using the forward position. The modified guys were running the bell crank setup. It really comes down to driver preference.

Give both a try and see what you think best suits your driving style.

If you want, I can ask the Yokomo R12 C3 designer and let you know
what to use and why.
would be great to hear some facts about the steerings systems from designer. whats the iedea behind the bell crank etc. .

here some pics from yokomo c3.1 from daniel sieber.
he always drives bell crank system, modified motors 3,5-4t boosted and black art body shells.
on tracks with some bumps mono shock and tube version on flat tracks.
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