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Old 01-19-2012, 10:30 AM
  #31  
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When we were using silver can motors on our tight indoor carpet track, a FDR of 7-7.5 was worked best. Again this was a tight track with high traction.
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Old 02-11-2012, 11:32 AM
  #32  
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its nice to see other ppl running this car how do you guys find the durability of it? what gear ratios for silver cans & 17.5 do you guys run? has any one tried the exotek chassis? does any one have a setup & setup sheet for this car? sorry to bing a older thread back
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Old 02-20-2012, 01:27 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by JKL1031
RPM ball cups all around and put another spring under the left servo saver.
Can you please give me a clue about this spring? What type? is there any specific spring i can use?

Thanx in advance.
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:42 AM
  #34  
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Cool My 17.5T setup

Originally Posted by urban
its nice to see other ppl running this car how do you guys find the durability of it? what gear ratios for silver cans & 17.5 do you guys run? has any one tried the exotek chassis? does any one have a setup & setup sheet for this car? sorry to bing a older thread back
Hello there.

I have been racing a Sprint 2 for 1 year now on asphalt (frt.gr). I am using soft (green) front and purple(medium) back springs with 35wt on both.
For my 17.5T Nosram i go for:
IDR:2,13
Spur:72
Pinion:36
FDR:4.26 (balanced acceleration and decent speed)

The HW Xerun is not extremely pushed, so temps are well within limits.

You can go up/down 4 pinion teeth if you wish to adapt your Sprint to different tracks.
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:20 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by crusadores
Can you please give me a clue about this spring? What type? is there any specific spring i can use?

Thanx in advance.
Put 2 of the normal spring in there.

Or really crank down on the tension ring and lock tight it.

Either way you have to tighten up that area or the steering will have too much play in it.
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Old 02-23-2012, 04:25 PM
  #36  
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yes just any spring u can find that can fit under there.
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Old 02-24-2012, 07:17 AM
  #37  
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Anyone knows what one-way fits this car?
I can't find anything for the sprint 2...
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Old 02-24-2012, 07:54 AM
  #38  
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I am thinking about this Chassis for RCGT for my local club. Besides the RPM cups, any major changes out of the box that really need to be addressed?
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:32 AM
  #39  
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My brother bought a Sprint 2 sport with the camaro body to learn racing with and we have had a problem with this cars ESC for some reason. We are using the stock motor, stock ESC and 2s 5000mah LiPo batteries. We placed the ESC in LiPo mode like the manual stated and the last two races we have blown the ESCs . HPI replaced the 1st one for free b/c we just bought the car and we thought something was wrong the the ESC but after the second one, i am thinking something may be wrong with our setup. Any ideas?
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:46 AM
  #40  
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esckalayd
the hpi esc sc15 are junk
pick up a new esc and rpm ball caps and your good to go
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Old 02-25-2012, 10:23 PM
  #41  
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cut around the rear diff if you are racing around rocks n debris.
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Old 02-28-2012, 09:49 AM
  #42  
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setting one up now for VTA fitting Lipo into with out rubbing the belt is being addressed will post up some pics soon
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Old 04-24-2012, 06:41 PM
  #43  
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bump
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Old 05-15-2012, 02:09 PM
  #44  
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Default belt tensioner

I removed the tensioner and drove a bolt through the lower mounting hole for the side plate, just below the belt. I then attached two small bearings with a lock nut. This stops the belt from rubbing the battery pack and seems to provide enough tension.

I picked up some RPM cups but I must have got the wrong ones. They are too long and a bit too bulky for the wheels.

Will the Associated cups work okay?
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Old 05-15-2012, 03:37 PM
  #45  
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I took the left side steering belcrank apart and made a spacer to go between the two bearings since the inner races are not supported. I also took a small punch to the pin to flare it some so the bearings would fit tighter on the shaft. Then carefully CA's the bearing to the shaft. Now it is nice and tight. On the other side, I found a nylon washer to use under the servo saver so the thumb-wheel can't go so loose it touches the chassis, and used Lock-Tite on it too. Don't just "Crank it all the way up".... I did and knocked teeth off the servo, it has to still have some "give"
I would like to know what settings anyone is using, I'm trying to run VTA with mine till I find something better. Any help?
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