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Old 05-26-2010, 01:51 PM   #16
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Jeremy c, wish I could help but I have little experience with that motor. There are a couple of other threads in this forum that deal with everything VTA. Perhaps someone there can give you a FDR recomendation for that motor. To find FDR for this car use SPUR divided by PINION and multiply by 2.13 = FDR.
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Old 05-30-2010, 10:13 AM   #17
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Jeremy c, wish I could help but I have little experience with that motor. There are a couple of other threads in this forum that deal with everything VTA. Perhaps someone there can give you a FDR recomendation for that motor. To find FDR for this car use SPUR divided by PINION and multiply by 2.13 = FDR.
all the help has been appreciated think I got it figured out, gear it to the moon running a 4.84:1 gear ratio right now and its good for at least 5 mins it might be pushing it for the main well see. thanks again and lets keep this thread alive
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Old 05-30-2010, 07:44 PM   #18
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all the help has been appreciated think I got it figured out, gear it to the moon running a 4.84:1 gear ratio right now and its good for at least 5 mins it might be pushing it for the main well see. thanks again and lets keep this thread alive
I raced brushed motors for many years in slotcars and I used comm drops to help lubricate the brushes giving it a couple of more rpm up top, something you may want to try. And if I am correct those "silver can" motors use bushings, keep them lubricated. A drop of oil before each run makes a difference. Let us know how your setup works out.
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Old 06-04-2010, 09:10 PM   #19
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Just got a HPI ball diff for this car and would like to give some info. Unlike the gear diff that has shallow depth cups, where the dogbones fit with red o-rings that keep them pushed into the wheel axles, the ball diff is hollow. I found this to be a problem after installation. The dogbones slide far enough into the diff allowing the opposite end to fall out of the wheel axles while turning and thru normal suspension travel. Solution... I cut lengths of nitro fuel tubing and slid it into the diff ends. This works like the red o-rings in the gear diff. I believe that HPI intended for the ball diff to be used with their CV axles, where you dont have have to worry about the dogbone sliding in and out. Anyway, the ball diff I installed in the front is alot smoother and has helped give the car better turn in and tracks straighter while acclerating out.
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Old 06-05-2010, 08:00 AM   #20
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that is good to know as the ball diff is on my to do list. Today is my first race with the sprint 2, I did get some practice the other day my fdr of 4.84:1 was way to tall now Im at 5.4:1 and right in there with the guys I was practicing with I will post back later with results
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Old 06-06-2010, 02:51 PM   #21
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5.4:1 still to tall, the other guys were out accelerating me and beating me on the straight. So my theory is Im not reaching the full rpm potential of the motor so Im going to try 5.7:1 and see if this helps
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Old 06-06-2010, 03:33 PM   #22
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try 5.9. 78/28. that was the magic when i had my SP2. and i have a 78 pinion if ud like.
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Old 06-06-2010, 05:06 PM   #23
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try 5.9. 78/28. that was the magic when i had my SP2. and i have a 78 pinion if ud like.
well I have been looking for one and none of my lhs have any. I have 75,81,87 but even when I gear at 5.6 and above it seems really slow. but I am willing to try anything so on tuesday I will be buying a few more pinions and see what happens thanks for all the help
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Old 06-17-2010, 08:24 AM   #24
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Default CF chassis

I just installed the CF main chassis and top plate in my S2S VTA car. And while the top plate instruction say that you can only use saddle packs with it. I didn't have any issues with the SMC5200 moving around. I did have to tape the battery in, but it will work.

The chassis is night and day stiffer than the plastic chassis. It is almost too stiff for the setup that I have on the car. The rear wants to get loose under power, so I am thinking of increasing front droop for a little more weight transfer under power.
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Old 06-18-2010, 08:48 AM   #25
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I just purchased a Sprint 2 flux with the intent of getting into racing. I want to get a decent setup going before I take it to the track. It looks like I will be racing Indoors on carpet using jaco or solaris tires in the 17.5 class. I have already replaced all the ball cups with purple RPM's and shimmed the left bellcrank, I have but haven't installed the graphite upper/lower chassis and shock towers, Hpi's cvd's, Hpi's one-way diff and a Hitec bb servo. I plan on throwing the whole car together when I get the new power system and radio. I was hoping someone here races a similar class with this car and had some insight into a neutral suspension setup to start out with.. Springs/shock oil camber/caster/toe/ride height etc..? Also was the one-way the wrong way to go? should I be looking into the ball diffs? Thanks ahead for you responses!
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Old 07-18-2010, 04:23 PM   #26
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Default Nuetral carpet setup for the Sprint 2

Ok, after practicing and racing the sprint on the track a few times I have come up with a pretty good setup. Like I said in my previous post I am running this car in the 17.5 tc class and for being a beginner carpet racer this setup is working great. I can't even drive it as fast as it can go due to my lack of driving skill but it seems as if someone who knew what they were doing were to take the wheel they could get some pretty good consistent lap times out of it.

The car has the carbon fiber upper and lower chassis and shock towers, hpi's NON-REBUILDABLE cvd's. I had the front one-way installed, it sucked and also exploded the first time I hit the barrier. I now run a gear diff with 50,000wt up front and a grease packed rear gear diff(both diffs have the lightest hpi rs4 diff tuning springs installed). I run the belts as loose as possible without skipping. I'm using the stock shocks with 2-hole pistons F&R 50wt up front and 45wt in the rear with HPI #6831 stock black (20.9lb) springs up front and HPI #6751 orange (19.3) in the rear. Shocks are in the stock mounting locations and I use 2mm preload F&R. 4 deg caster blocks up front and 3 deg toe in the rear. front ride height is 6mm AND 5.5mm in the rear. I have tinkered with the rear droop to get the rear to rotate into the corners off-throttle also, couldn't give an exact measurement as I don't know how to. Camber is 1.5deg all around.

Its running a Tekin RS/Redline 17.5 system, A Traxxas Link radio system and a Traxxas 2075 steering servo. I'm using solaris med rubber premounted tires and a protoform LTC-R body.

Also contrary to popular belief, you can run any stick pack that fits between the decks with the CF upper and lower chassis. I have been using Orion 2s 3800 hardcase race packs with no issues at all. I have come up with a mod, I use two body mounting posts cut to fit (about an inch and a half long)and installed them into the old mounting holes in the battery holder/wings using a body clip on either side of the wing to secure them. They hold the battery perfectly in place and it looks like a factory job. You will have to position the body clips on the left side of the car so they don't rub the belt.

Anyways I hope this can help anyone who is trying to compete with this very old-style outdated chassis! I have found that I can get around the track 100 times better with this setup as apposed to stock. If anyone has any questions about this setup feel free to ask, I plan on running this chassis until either it gets totalled or I absolutely need a more competitive chassis.

Last edited by highrpm666; 07-18-2010 at 09:09 PM.
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Old 07-18-2010, 04:32 PM   #27
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Old 07-18-2010, 05:35 PM   #28
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Cool to see
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Old 03-15-2011, 04:21 PM   #29
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awaken the old..

theres gotta be some more people out there that race the sprint 2. Its hard to find any setups. I run my sprint 2 in a local club that sounds almost identical to Jeremy C. Johnson Silver can etc. Anymore setups out there?

I like how the one way works, and is my next addition.
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:08 AM   #30
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Default sprint 2

yea rpm cups n soft spring all around from hpi rs4
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