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Old 06-25-2007, 11:40 AM   #13921
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Default Foam tires for parking lots

What foams are you guys running. I like the Jaco Nitro Shoes in the 40 shure. I would like to run 30mm all around but find there to be slight clearance issues. What do you guys run?
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Old 06-25-2007, 11:47 AM   #13922
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I am hoping someone on this thread can help me. I was wanting to know if the suspension set up off a XXX-S will work on a XXX4G buggy? I have a complete graphite chassis with all the diffs (front is a one way) , belt,just no suspension. And I am planning on running it on dirt oval. Any help would be great. john
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Old 06-25-2007, 12:06 PM   #13923
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radarwill: For carpet I run the Jaco two stage double pink, and double pink orange. Thats a start. That was about a year and a half ago at the Birds' with my setup. Not sure if theres anything better

demonrc: The XXX-S suspesion will not work on the XXX-4. On off-road the width of the buggies are wider, also the shocks they use are alot longer. Since the width of the arms are longer, you will also need longer CVD's.
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Old 06-25-2007, 06:28 PM   #13924
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It's been a while since I ran a XXX-4, but from memory, (and looking at my XXX-S) I would say the answer is actually "sort of".. You would have to replace shock towers, all the inner hinge pin pivot blocks, the a-arms, shocks, CVD bones... Lots of parts and lots of work, but...? (Towers are a direct bolt-on)

Update: I just verified this (I had an old broken XXX-4 chassis, and compared it to a spare XXX-S chassis). ALL suspension mount holes are identical between the two chassis -- the XXX-4 is about 1/4" longer wheelbase, but that is all! All parts can be bolted right on -- depends on how much work you want to do and how much money you want to spend...

Depending on the class you want to run, you should be able to try fitting sedan shocks onto the XXX-4's offroad suspension (keep the long arms, etc.) -- this might require using the XXX-S rear shock tower ON BOTH ENDS of the car (bonus -- front and rear body mounts?)... (or use the sedan front bumper and it's body mounts...?)

Hey! JOHN is that you (Jeff City?)... Is this for Mikes or Mid Mo? If it is, I could loan you some parts to test fit and then you would know what to order from John...
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Last edited by tfrahm; 06-25-2007 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 06-25-2007, 08:23 PM   #13925
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Thanks for the info, I got the complete chassis without any suspenion in a trade for almost nothing. I am wanting to build it into a latemodel dirt oval car. again thanks. john ( not from jeff city)
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Old 06-26-2007, 01:23 AM   #13926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TL_XXX-S_racer View Post
On the shocks there are rings(nut like) that can turn. Turn then clockwise to raise ride height. Turning them counter-clockwise will lower ride height. The G+ has threaded shocks, which makes it fast and easy to adjust ride height, unlike the standard rtr shocks where you have to loosen a little screw then move the collar up or down.

Chris
Cheers mate
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Old 06-26-2007, 06:02 AM   #13927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demonrc View Post
Thanks for the info, I got the complete chassis without any suspenion in a trade for almost nothing. I am wanting to build it into a latemodel dirt oval car. again thanks. john ( not from jeff city)
Since you will be buying suspension parts anyway, it sounds like you are golden! Good luck with your conversion.

Something that might help is this link, which shows how to build a "XXX-R" ("Rally" XXX-S) -- not exactly what you are doing, but it shows just how versatile the XXX-S chassis is:

http://www.sixfoottiger.com/articles/xxxr/xxxr.cfm
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Old 06-26-2007, 04:34 PM   #13928
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Thanks again, I thought everything would fit but wanted to ask first before I started buying parts. I have always thought that the XXX-S would make a good dirt oval car, with the slipper of the xxx4 it should be even better. along with a Factory Works Late model body, and crc nitro wide foams, it should be a winner. john
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Old 06-30-2007, 05:09 PM   #13929
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hi guys,
quick questions if you dont mind.......

Hpi make alloy hex clamps to replace the hex and pin arrangement in the drivershafts....it says they are 6mm. Do you know if they will fit onto the losi size driveshafts so I can replace the hex and pin's with hex clamps?

Secondly,
just reading the above, I have a xxx4 graphite chassis lying around would there be any performance advantage using this chassis over the standard xxx-s one since it is 1/4" longer?

Thanks Guys
Dan
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Old 07-01-2007, 10:39 AM   #13930
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LosiDan, If you run the XXX-4 Chassis you will also need the belt for it ( I'm sure you knew that) But as far as performance, I don't really think so. And don't forget you'll run into problems with standard sedan bodies fitting right.

Jay
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Old 07-02-2007, 09:22 PM   #13931
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Default XXX-S aprking lot setup ideas

All, I am running the stock setup on the chassis and am running a Novak GTB/Velocity motor with a very lite Team Orion LiPo. I notice that with the RTR supplied blue springs it's almost impossible to get the car to compress the springs and squat naturally. Can someone give me spring ideas. My problem is comoin out of a corner under power, the rear end is loose and if I'm not careful a 180deg spin out ensues.
I'm begginning to balance my car front to back and side to side but believe the blue springs are to stiff. I run foams all around and am geared at 88/18. Any ideas on the springs I should use on a tight parking lot track?
Thanks again
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Old 07-05-2007, 06:18 PM   #13932
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Thumbs down XXX-S big disappointemnt

I guess my problem is with the assemblers. I've had my XXX-S for around two weeks and decided to give the diffs some TLC. I was very suprised to not find a coil spring but rather 8 conical shaped washers. I guess Losi made a change to the car and NOT the manual. I wasn't floored until I discovered one diff had the correct number of thrust balls (8) and the other diff only had installed 7. WTF, this sucks and I never would have expected this kind of BS from Losi. I hope my RC18MT balls will fit. Any thoughts on washers vs springs?
Thanks
Will
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Old 07-05-2007, 10:27 PM   #13933
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radarwill -- For the local parking lot racing, I tend to set my XXX-S up:

Front Shocks:
either Purple springs (less steering needed)
or Blue springs (more steering needed)
either #60 (tan) piston with 30wt oil
or #57 (black) piston with 40wt oil (only a subtle difference, but slightly more steering)

Rear Shocks:
either Silver springs (less rear traction, more steering)
or Red springs (more rear traction, less steering)
Always #56 (pink/red) piston with 30wt oil

Our local parking lot tracks don't have enough traction to allow Blue rear springs...

About the diffs...
The coil spring is usually better than the cupped washers for allowing better adjustment of the diff. (The CR spring with the CR bronze and chrome washers is SUPER smooth...)
For the thrust washer, I prefer the heavy duty thrust washer with the "captured" thrust balls...
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Old 07-05-2007, 10:53 PM   #13934
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Thanks tfrahm, a wealth of info. I'll look into getting a better setup for my diffs. I still think this car drives soo good that if you can't drive it, just get another hobby. I have been running the silver spring in back. Are you guys using the four droop screws on the bottom to lower the ride height when you have a new set(tall) of tires on such as foams? I can't get this car to squat any other way.
Thanks
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Old 07-06-2007, 06:11 AM   #13935
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Be careful of using the 'droop' screws to adjust ride height, as you can seriously impact spring preload, etc. and create unexpected side effects. In theory, you should be able to back off on the spring preload collars to get the ride height you want. The catch to this is that you almost have to have the threaded shock bodies all around, and for carpet/foams you NEED the .28 shock bodies and shafts on the front.

Over dependence on the droop screws can create very inconsistent handling, as that much force will tend to bend the soft bumper materieal holding the droop screws, and that flex can make the car do odd things. You are always much better off just using the screws to set droop, and letting the preload collars do ride height...

If all else fails, you can use internal limiters in the shocks, but that is not easy to change as foams wear down, so that really only works for me when running rubber tires...
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Biff Racing Team #420 (Ah... The "good old days"...)
The local indoor Offroad Track: The RC Race Barn
TLR22-3.0, TLR22T-2.0, TLR22SCT-1.0
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