Losi XXX-S
Originally Posted by RCknight
-Losi black belt kit
-Lunsford Ti screws & hinge pins
-Lunsford quick tune ti shock mounts
-Speed tech aluminum bell steering and graphite shock towers
-AE wheel clamps
-Losi JRX-S shocks
-Boca ceramic bearings yellows and green seals for the wheel hubs
That should do it!
-Lunsford Ti screws & hinge pins
-Lunsford quick tune ti shock mounts
-Speed tech aluminum bell steering and graphite shock towers
-AE wheel clamps
-Losi JRX-S shocks
-Boca ceramic bearings yellows and green seals for the wheel hubs
That should do it!
Brant
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
You guys still race these cars..
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by xxxkat
You guys still race these cars..
The XXX-S is a great car!
A local fast guy can still win with one at our local track and there are many fast guys he races against. I'm not so sure that weight makes a huge difference with a tc. Don't you get more traction with a heavier car? But, I guess you give up steering in the faster corners. I really wish Losi would improve the XXX-S if not for the R.T.R. kits. It's the last of the tub chassis and street basher belted car out there. I love this car. When I take a spring time break for street bashing with a 4.5 brushless and 4800 lipo battery pack.
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
Originally Posted by DrOlds
What's the matter? You afraid that somebody's gonna show up at your track with one these 1 year old "relics" and embarrass your car of the week?
I purchased my XXXS G+ about 1 year ago and i have only been racing for about 5 weeks and have already finished 1st in an A main at my local track. I have beaten cars like tc3's and tc4's, evo 3, an Xray and many other cars. The XXXS is still competitive and easy to drive. Driving skills play a big part aswell.
I am a newbie any help greatly appreciated
I bought a xxx-s g+ from a known racer at our local track, and he had it set up with low roll front and high rear with 6 degree caster up front.
Also, the wheel bearings had no dust caps on them, which seems retarded to me? I ordered a set of Duratrax? teflon wheel bearings for it.
Can a quality esc make that much difference? 2-3 laps? What esc would be recommended? Novak something? ill be running 27t stock on a tight asphalt track.
I put in low roll rear and the rear seemed to slide around more, so i changed it back.
What advantage is there to running 6 degree front caster (I put in the 4 degree set)
I bought a xxx-s g+ from a known racer at our local track, and he had it set up with low roll front and high rear with 6 degree caster up front.
Also, the wheel bearings had no dust caps on them, which seems retarded to me? I ordered a set of Duratrax? teflon wheel bearings for it.
Can a quality esc make that much difference? 2-3 laps? What esc would be recommended? Novak something? ill be running 27t stock on a tight asphalt track.
I put in low roll rear and the rear seemed to slide around more, so i changed it back.
What advantage is there to running 6 degree front caster (I put in the 4 degree set)
Last edited by gearhead13; 12-16-2005 at 02:56 PM.
It was real helpful for me when I first got my XXX-S to read this thread from the start.
Also, the wheel bearings had no dust caps on them, which seems retarded to me?
The idea is to take off the caps on the interior(of the car) side and then lightly oil them. It is supposed to be a tiny bit faster but requires more maintainence
I ordered a set of Duratrax? teflon wheel bearings for it.
Can a quality esc make that much difference? 2-3 laps?
In stock starting out probably no difference certainly not even a single lap. Obviously depends on what you have now and how much you want to invest.
What esc would be recommended? Novak something? ill be running 27t stock on a tight asphalt track. Novak has one for $50. If you think you are going to stick with it for a couple years, it is cheaper in the long run to buy the more expensive electronics.
What advantage is there to running 6 degree front caster (I put in the 4 degree set) Most carpet setups call for 6 degree most asphalt 4 deg.
Also, the wheel bearings had no dust caps on them, which seems retarded to me?
The idea is to take off the caps on the interior(of the car) side and then lightly oil them. It is supposed to be a tiny bit faster but requires more maintainence
I ordered a set of Duratrax? teflon wheel bearings for it.
Can a quality esc make that much difference? 2-3 laps?
In stock starting out probably no difference certainly not even a single lap. Obviously depends on what you have now and how much you want to invest.
What esc would be recommended? Novak something? ill be running 27t stock on a tight asphalt track. Novak has one for $50. If you think you are going to stick with it for a couple years, it is cheaper in the long run to buy the more expensive electronics.
What advantage is there to running 6 degree front caster (I put in the 4 degree set) Most carpet setups call for 6 degree most asphalt 4 deg.
This is a HUGE thread, I started reading the thread from page one and I am up to page 80.
Both inside and outside bearings had no caps and were dirty and gritty. The outdrive bearings have no caps on them either.
I picked up a duratrax forward only esc for $20, and the cheapest novak is $80. I am upgrading connectors to WS deans and am getting 4 3800's to go with my GP3300. If I crash once, being a newbie, ill have lost the advantage of the better esc etc.
Both inside and outside bearings had no caps and were dirty and gritty. The outdrive bearings have no caps on them either.
I picked up a duratrax forward only esc for $20, and the cheapest novak is $80. I am upgrading connectors to WS deans and am getting 4 3800's to go with my GP3300. If I crash once, being a newbie, ill have lost the advantage of the better esc etc.
Good start gearhead
What I do when ever I do "research" on a topic.
I open a Microsoft word window. Whenever I read somthing good I highlight it copy it, then past it into Word. Instead of printing out each good post or article, I can just save and print my word document with all the important text.
The bearing thing would only make sence if the original owner was spraying them out regularly and re-oiling them after every race day.
Three things which helped my reliablity a lot were
1. getting the diffs right as to tightness and correct assembly
2. replacing the plastic ball caps with the heavy duty ones.
3. geting one of those after market slightly wider front bunber support and getting a brace that atached to both front body mount posts and the front diff cover.
The single biggest mistake I made my first year was trying to go to fast and hiting things and breaking suspension parts. It was expensive and discouraging.
I open a Microsoft word window. Whenever I read somthing good I highlight it copy it, then past it into Word. Instead of printing out each good post or article, I can just save and print my word document with all the important text.
The bearing thing would only make sence if the original owner was spraying them out regularly and re-oiling them after every race day.
Three things which helped my reliablity a lot were
1. getting the diffs right as to tightness and correct assembly
2. replacing the plastic ball caps with the heavy duty ones.
3. geting one of those after market slightly wider front bunber support and getting a brace that atached to both front body mount posts and the front diff cover.
The single biggest mistake I made my first year was trying to go to fast and hiting things and breaking suspension parts. It was expensive and discouraging.
I'm sure this has been asking several times...
but can anyone tell me if you can get 3800 cells in the XXX-S G+? Is there anyway you can mod the chassis to get them to fit? Need to know A.S.A.P. so I can order one or not.
I sure hope so 'cause I ordered 4 sets of them. My GP3300's fit so why not the 3800's.
My chassis has already been modified with the slots opened up so I hope I dont have to grind anymore out
My chassis has already been modified with the slots opened up so I hope I dont have to grind anymore out
Well i received some Pro Match IB3800's today. and I just tried to fit the pack in. and the only thing i see that it doesnt fit is that since there is shoe gloo holding the cells together it doesnt make the cells fit in each slot. So you have to take teh shoe goo out so its smaller. I think i remember reading earlier in this thread where u have to put shims under the battery strap posts to raise it up cause these cells are bigger. Im thinking of using battery tape to hold the cells in. Im thinking of what else i can do to fit the cells in.
If anyone else has any suggestions please post back.
Thanks. and Hope this helps you out too.
Chris
If anyone else has any suggestions please post back.
Thanks. and Hope this helps you out too.
Chris
My 3800's arrived today, just have to pick them up at the post office . I was thinking of using cyanoacrylate(sp)? instead of shoe glue.
I am using silver solder with beefy bars so they should be strong enough.
I am using silver solder with beefy bars so they should be strong enough.
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
3800's fit in a JRXS..