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Old 06-29-2005, 12:50 PM   #13201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow4dr
I suck at mounting touring car bodies. Does the Losi Skoda have dimples for the XXX-S?
Nope--Sorry just for the JRXS. Just put the clear body over the car before you paint it and mark the holes. I painted one for a buddy with a XXXS. The front wheels and the lines marked on the Skoda 2 fit just fine on the XXXS. Take your time and you can do it.

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Old 06-29-2005, 05:29 PM   #13202
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My Skoda (mk 1) came with marks for the XXX-S ... I think the Skoda 2 only has marks for the JRX-S
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Old 06-29-2005, 05:39 PM   #13203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigger Brother
My Skoda (mk 1) came with marks for the XXX-S ... I think the Skoda 2 only has marks for the JRX-S
You are correct.

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Old 06-29-2005, 09:37 PM   #13204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow4dr
I suck at mounting touring car bodies. Does the Losi Skoda have dimples for the XXX-S?
Yes, the Skoda 1 does have the dimples for the XXX-S. The Skoda 2 has them placed for the JRX-S.

The best method for me has been to mark the body before being painted. It also helps to not have looooooong body mounting posts. Mine only stick up a couple holes beyond the hole where I fasten the upper body clip. YOU CAN DO IT!

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Old 07-14-2005, 12:29 PM   #13205
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Default Ride height

Hi all

I was running carpet the other day and had the tire diameters at 58.5mm and running Silver springs in the rear but I was unable to get a 5mm ride height in the rear. The threaded shock collars were at there maximum. The shock tower was at the 2nd innermost (standup) setting. I was able to get barley 5mm when laying the shocks down (4th outtermost hole) but again I had very little adjustment ability with the shovck collar.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
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Old 07-14-2005, 12:33 PM   #13206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinkrat99
Hi all

I was running carpet the other day and had the tire diameters at 58.5mm and running Silver springs in the rear but I was unable to get a 5mm ride height in the rear. The threaded shock collars were at there maximum. The shock tower was at the 2nd innermost (standup) setting. I was able to get barley 5mm when laying the shocks down (4th outtermost hole) but again I had very little adjustment ability with the shovck collar.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
You can cut 1/8" off of the top of the lower shock shaft end to lower the spring keeper. This may give you just enough to get your ride height right. Good Luck

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Old 07-14-2005, 03:54 PM   #13207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POOKYT
You can cut 1/8" off of the top of the lower shock shaft end to lower the spring keeper. This may give you just enough to get your ride height right. Good Luck

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What about running your bk/pk bars on the rear? won't that work?
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Old 07-14-2005, 04:47 PM   #13208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinkrat99
Hi all

I was running carpet the other day and had the tire diameters at 58.5mm and running Silver springs in the rear but I was unable to get a 5mm ride height in the rear. The threaded shock collars were at there maximum. The shock tower was at the 2nd innermost (standup) setting. I was able to get barley 5mm when laying the shocks down (4th outtermost hole) but again I had very little adjustment ability with the shovck collar.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
Can you clarify if you mean you have too much or too little ride height? I assume you mean too little ride height.

Are you out of droop? If you lift your car up, will the rear tires stay on the ground until you reach 5mm ride height? If not, you don't have enough droop and need to back the droop screws off (if you use them) or unthread your shock ends a couple turns to increase your shock length.

If you've run out of room to crank down on the preload collars, maybe try using some spacers between the collars and springs for additional preload. Use something like the non-threaded Associated shocks use for preload adjustment.

Another thing you may want to try is a stiffer spring, as silvers seem soft to me for foams on carpet. When I was running foam/carpet with my XXX-S last winter, I ran orange (35 lbs) fronts and black (25 lbs) rears, much stiffer than the silvers (15.5 lbs I think ). But every track is different, so maybe that wouldn't work for you. The stiffer spring will require less preload, so you won't have to crank down on the collars as far, making it easier to make 5 mm ride height. That said, I think I ran silvers on the back of my car when I ran foams on ashpalt, and don't remember having any issues with making ride height. I'd just start by checking if anything is physically limiting you suspension's movement/droop and go from there. Hope this helps. Good luck!
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Old 07-14-2005, 07:31 PM   #13209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buck Nasty
What about running your bk/pk bars on the rear? won't that work?
I dunno. If you do that then you will need to go to a softer spring like on the JRXS. Could be cool though. I would have to make sure they fit the XXXS arms as well.

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Old 07-15-2005, 04:15 AM   #13210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinkrat99
Hi all

I was running carpet the other day and had the tire diameters at 58.5mm and running Silver springs in the rear but I was unable to get a 5mm ride height in the rear. The threaded shock collars were at there maximum. The shock tower was at the 2nd innermost (standup) setting. I was able to get barley 5mm when laying the shocks down (4th outtermost hole) but again I had very little adjustment ability with the shovck collar.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
Also you can use ball studs and long rod ends on the rear. I have seen carpet guy's run the rear shocks that way. You get much longer shocks. You can even cut down the rod ends to suite your needs.
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Old 07-16-2005, 02:37 PM   #13211
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I'm sure this has been covered somewhere in this thread at some point. But I didn't feel like going through 440 pages. I have a problem with my wheel nuts not tightening down to the locking part of the nut on my XXX-S G+. It's like the axles it came with aren't long enough. Has anyone else had this problem? I bought the Associated hexs thinking that's why everone recommends those, but it didn't change it at all.
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Old 07-16-2005, 06:04 PM   #13212
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Originally Posted by harkonen
I'm sure this has been covered somewhere in this thread at some point. But I didn't feel like going through 440 pages. I have a problem with my wheel nuts not tightening down to the locking part of the nut on my XXX-S G+. It's like the axles it came with aren't long enough. Has anyone else had this problem? I bought the Associated hexs thinking that's why everone recommends those, but it didn't change it at all.
harkonen,

The Associated hexes are wider than the standard Losi hexes. Therefore, you have fewer axle threads available to fasten the nut to.

Buy "low-profile" (thin) aluminum locknuts so that the stub axle's threads catch more of the nylon material on the locknut.

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Old 07-16-2005, 06:27 PM   #13213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harkonen
I'm sure this has been covered somewhere in this thread at some point. But I didn't feel like going through 440 pages. I have a problem with my wheel nuts not tightening down to the locking part of the nut on my XXX-S G+. It's like the axles it came with aren't long enough. Has anyone else had this problem? I bought the Associated hexs thinking that's why everone recommends those, but it didn't change it at all.
also if you can get your hands on them without buying the whole drive shaft the assc tc3 stub axles(without the cvd) are longer and the same diameter as xxx-s.
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Old 07-16-2005, 07:05 PM   #13214
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Low profile aluminum locknuts are cheap and weigh less than standard locknuts.
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Old 07-17-2005, 01:16 PM   #13215
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Default 19T and stock gearing help

There's not enough hours in my one day off to search for the answer in this thread...

What are good places to start for both motors? I'm running an Epic stock motor (the ROAR legal version) and either a Chameleon or a Reedy 19T.
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