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Old 12-03-2001, 12:07 PM   #1306
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Not that i am trying to get off the subject, I am having trouble getting enough "punch" out of the car in stock. I run on a tight carpet track and have both the TC3 and the losi and can not get the snap out of the corners that the TC3 gives me. I have tried going to the bigger spur and had little effect on the problem. All the grease is out of the bearings and is freed up alot. I have not tried the one-way yet . Any ideas????? Thanks
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Old 12-03-2001, 12:20 PM   #1307
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well, the first thing on the snap, is, how tight are you running your belt????tighter=more punch less top end....also, our indoor carpet track, (80x 36)....last week was fairly open, i ran 8.235 fdr....(90-20)...the car was a rocket....i was easyly the fastest by a.1 or .2.....even the overgeared cars could not keep up....
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Old 12-03-2001, 12:25 PM   #1308
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I tried the belt tighter when I first started running the car indoors and felt a little to flat in the straights. Your gearing is with what motor? GM3 I had geared at 23/90. Maybe gear it down to your ratio and try it there? Thanks
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Old 12-03-2001, 12:31 PM   #1309
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sorry...i had a gm3...try the gear...it worked.....
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Old 12-03-2001, 12:33 PM   #1310
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Try using a P2K on a tight carpet track? The GM is RPM based, unless you can constantly carry corner speed you might be better off with a motor that has more torque.
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Old 12-03-2001, 12:36 PM   #1311
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Thanks MR. LOSI, I will try that ratio and see what happens.

Any word on that guy that Todd Hodge was helping out at clevelend, as far as the mods that they were keeping secret.I guess his car was good in stock and ran real well. A fellow racer told me this info??
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Old 12-03-2001, 03:55 PM   #1312
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futureal,

Glad you like the part. Just about everyone that has seen them just love how they look and fit Keep me updated on how they work for you. I will be running my car this coming Sunday with the low roll center setup as well, and I agree, there is quite a bit of mod to do to the front, but I think it will be well worth it.

For those of you that are new to the thread, you can check out the parts that futureal is talking about on our website.

MDawson, great practicing on Sunday, sorry I wasn't much of a "chaser" lol

Thanks

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Old 12-03-2001, 04:03 PM   #1313
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Here's something else we were (playfully) arguing about at the track on Sunday.

Does lowering the pivot point of the suspension arms raise the roll center or lower the roll center?

At first glance, you would say lower. BUT, you are not actually lowering the car, you are lowering the arms relative to the chassis. I never really thought about it this way until I read the Todd Hodge article in Xtreme R/C. He says you are RAISING the roll center with the low-pivot blocks.

I have drawn the diagrams and looked long and hard at it, and it seems like you are indeed lowering the roll center (relative to the ground) by a small bit. However, you are lowering the roll center relative to the chassis by a lot, since you are changing where the arms pivot.

Does this mean that Todd Hodge's article was wrong? Or is there something I'm missing here in terms of the roll center relative to what?
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Old 12-03-2001, 07:36 PM   #1314
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I can repair the bearings in oneways by replacing the bad bearing(s) without destroying the housing or the other bearings. Email me if you have Q's.... or check the Yok thread- I went more indepth there....
Thanks,
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Old 12-03-2001, 08:12 PM   #1315
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Quote:
Originally posted by futureal
Here's something else we were (playfully) arguing about at the track on Sunday.

Does lowering the pivot point of the suspension arms raise the roll center or lower the roll center?

At first glance, you would say lower. BUT, you are not actually lowering the car, you are lowering the arms relative to the chassis. I never really thought about it this way until I read the Todd Hodge article in Xtreme R/C. He says you are RAISING the roll center with the low-pivot blocks.

I have drawn the diagrams and looked long and hard at it, and it seems like you are indeed lowering the roll center (relative to the ground) by a small bit. However, you are lowering the roll center relative to the chassis by a lot, since you are changing where the arms pivot.

Does this mean that Todd Hodge's article was wrong? Or is there something I'm missing here in terms of the roll center relative to what?
A playful argument is a great phrase.

My thought.

If you use the low roll center mounts then you are in fact lowering the roll center of the car.

If you use a soft setup with a high-roll center then you can mimick a low-roll center-like effect. Not exactly but similar.

Roll Center as I am told IS NOT the same as CG.

I think the answer will vary. Several factory guys have said different things. Well known guys at that. Some confusing CG with Roll Center.

The only way to get a decent answer is to ask Gil or Cliff. Other than those two guys at this point, I dont think there is a complete answer.
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Old 12-03-2001, 08:20 PM   #1316
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Since we are talking about the low roll center option. Which would be better for carpet (ozite) racing with rubber tires?

It sounds to me like the low roll center would since carpet is considered a high traction type track. That way your car wouldn't roll as much and you the car should transition faster.

is this right?
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Old 12-03-2001, 08:55 PM   #1317
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Actually lowering the roll center allows the car to roll easier. Lowering the center of gravity keeps the car from rolling over. The lower roll center seems to make the car carve a little better with the same springs.

Mk
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Old 12-03-2001, 09:02 PM   #1318
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Roll Center is not the same as Center of Gravity.
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Old 12-03-2001, 09:24 PM   #1319
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Roll center is an imaginary axis that runs through the car from front to rear. The car rolls 'around' that axis when the chassis rolls from left to right when changing directions.

With a lower RC, more mass of the car is above the RC, thus the car will 'tip over' easier. Low RC aids in L to R weight transfer. This can add traction on a low bite surface, or reduce traction on a high bite surface.

They have books on this subject if you guys really want to learn.

Jr. and Cliff had to learn it someplace.....
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Old 12-04-2001, 05:58 AM   #1320
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Has anybody checked his one-way after running it for a while?

I took mine out yesterday to clean it and was shocked to see that both hubs (the parts with the one-way bearings, not the outdrives) are cracked!!

This after only two race weeks in mod and one with stock.

At a price of $25 a piece, this will get expensive!!!

I hope somebody will comeup with aluminum hubs!!
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