POOKYT

Always keep one thing in mind when dealing with a stock motor! They will NOT last forever and getting a lil hot is ok. Usually mine come off the track closer to 200 deg. 4wd touring cars are hard on stock motors so don't get to attached to them and plan on one day it taking a clomplete crap! Too, remember that over gearing a motor as well as under gearing a motor will make it get hot Good Luck!

Brant

mudpuppy

That may shy me away from running stock. What about 19 turn motors?

POOKYT

LOL Well.........ask around and get others opinions but.....I have always run my 19 turn at either 1 tooth higher or at the same ratio as my stock on the same size tracks. Weird huh? But, that what the 19's seem to like for me. Good Luck

Brant

P.S. pop into the EA Motorsports thread and ask those guys their opinions on ratio's. They may be a better source than me.

mudpuppy

Pookyt - Thanks for something to start experimenting with and I will ask around some more.

Also.... I've seen pics of the new JRXS with what looks like multiple schotky diodes mounted to the motor. Does any know if they are there to help keep the motor cool?

Another question... what does a lager spur gear give you compared to a smaller spur gear?

POOKYT

I don't know about the diodes. But, as for the spur it, the larger spur actually creates less friction as opposed to a smaller one. And mentally for me I say it has more leverage than a smaller spur. I know..I know...gear ratio is gear ratio.....blah blah blah. But, I like the bigger spur and thats that! LOL

Brant
'

enggboy

I have been running a P2K Pro for about 3 months now, I comes off the track at about 160 F with my regular packs and about 190 F with my really good pack. I have not found this to be too hard on it. I just lightly touch the comm after every heat with a comm stick, and then cut it every month or so.

Most of the people I race with say that 160 F is the temp that gives you the best power vs. abuse. Hope that give a bit of insight.

Enggboy

mudpuppy

I have ran P2K2s in the past but found them to be slow. Maybe I havn't figured out a good spring/brush combination yet.

Can you guys tell me how to get more on-power steering? My car seems to push badly when I am coming out of the corners and get back on the throttle.

dstyles

had a chance to run the skoda2 body on my g+ this weekend on an outdoor asphalt/parking lot track and i must say it performed well
i had been previously running the yokomo stratus type-e and thought that it provided me with the most steering for my driving style. well, the skoda2 had more steering entering and exiting the turns. any others have a chance to use it yet?

enggboy

The P2K Pro I am running was 'tweaked' by one of the local motor magicians. He aligned the brush hoods and located the arm in the magnetic field. I am not sure about the springs, but I am running Fantom 309 brushes.

With my car geared to a rollout of almost 29 mm (1.14 inches) I am just as fast as a properly geared XRay running a Fantom Monster Stock.

As for your power-on corner exit understeering, I found that a slightly stiffer rear spring with a tighter front diff (or in the extreme a one-way) helped me get more steering in general.

That is my 2 cents.

Enggboy

polesitter61

iTrader: (4)

What do I need to make my diff a spool? Just the spool pads? I glued the diff together this week and it worked but I broke a molded outdrive pretty quick. What is the part # for a steel outdrive or something stonger than the molded plastic ones? Your quick response is appreciated, I need to fix it for my nephew for Fri. night.

NVisible

iTrader: (1)

anyone have a good setup for a small, tight carpet track w/foams?

dgullickson

iTrader: (45)

For both you guys:

Contact CHADK on here he is very knowledgeable on both your questions.

POOKYT

Polesitter--You need 2 of a LOSA3073 steel outdrive and 1 of a LOSA3072 diff. tube. Then use all your regular diff parts from the XXXS. Also, I personally use 60 or 80 grit sandpaper to make my own pads. The stock ones are almost too smooth to grip good. Be sure that when you reassemble the spool to put the outdrive grooves at 90 deg. to each other. Do not line them up straight across to each other. I dunno why but this just makes it work better. Then I run a bead of CA around the outdrive/ring/pulley area to hold R together. Tighten the thrust assy very good but do not stip out the diff nut. Lastly, after 3 sets of aluminum CVD's last year, I gave in and ran the steel ones from the XXXS in the front for durability. If you need a pic to help reassemble the spool, use the break down for the XXX4's rear diff assembly.
Good Luck

Brant

polesitter61

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Pookty, that's what I needed.

POOKYT

No Problem!! Tell your nephew to kick some booty Fri. night!

Brant