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Old 11-28-2001, 11:25 PM   #1276
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I am using a G9 esc and using the throttle back pos to put a little drag brake in it to get the car to turn. If I remove the brake it will push to the wall.We are racing stock right now because it is all they race there. We are running a slight amount of toe out in the front and stock rear hubs. If the front diff is tighter wouldnt that make it push off power even more like in a sweeper going into some esses?
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Old 11-29-2001, 06:06 AM   #1277
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Doug- Have you personally driven each car to determine the push? It could be a matter of different driving stlyes. If that's not the case then I'm a little lost and I would've checked everything that others have already mentioned. Also...does each car have the same body on it? A different body stlye will make the car react differently when try to compare the same set up. Hope this helps you some
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Old 11-29-2001, 06:22 AM   #1278
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I have driven 3 of then. The one that handles the best is using the stock stratusfear body as well as the other one I drove that pushed. Mine has the protoform stratus on it. I have been racing since 1984 and the guy that owns the car that does not push has been racing longer than that. We are very confused also. Thanks for all the posts. BTW,I have even had an hpi stratus on it to no effect.
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Old 11-29-2001, 06:48 AM   #1279
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Have you tried the other guys shocks on your car? Just reaching here since no one can pin it down.
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Old 11-29-2001, 07:42 AM   #1280
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Isn't 5mm a lot of rear droop (or lack of)? When I first started racing, I didn't ever set the droop because I didn't know what it was. All my cars had oversteer. Then a racer friend told me that you can set the rear droop more or less to let the weight of the car transition from the rear to the front when going into a turn. I tried 4mm and my car started pushing, lots. I reduced it to about 2-3mm and it was just right. This was on my TC3. When I built the Losi I used the stock settings, 2mm front/4mm rear. My XXX-S has been great right out of the box. Try it, you never know. You've tried everything else.
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Old 11-29-2001, 05:54 PM   #1281
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Have you checked things like the front spindles and rear toe-in blocks to make sure that they are not reversed (creating negative caster or an insane amount of rear toe)? That's about all I can think of.

The only other possibility is that something is binding in the diff or universals at the front of the car that's causing the wheels to spin slower than the rear wheels. I had a one-way blow on me once in a Yokomo and that's exactly what happened to the car, total insane push... I would think that a binding problem could have the same effect, albeit to a lesser degree.
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Old 11-29-2001, 09:33 PM   #1282
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Rog and Rocket, I am the second car Doug is talking about...the other one that pushes. Now as we try to disect this problem, I keep getting the idea of the droops confused. I think the droop will be a key factor in getting this solved.

In the Losi manual, it states the rear droop is increased it would cause the car to smooth out (push). Less rear droop would free the car up or more abrupt.

Just so I can understand this (visual learner) on my trusty Losi droop gage, if I am at 5mm now and wanted less droop (free the car up make it more abrupt) what number would I want on the gage (in theory)? If I could see this I think I would have a better handle on it.

Thanks for you help,

Jeff

Last edited by Jeff Werner; 11-29-2001 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 11-29-2001, 10:24 PM   #1283
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More droop means more shock travel and visa-versa for less. If your at 5 and need less(less shock travel) go to 6. I run 3 in the front 5 in the rear(parking lot).


*TIP* dial in more droop for less bite surfaces(unprepared parking lot) and visa-versa for higher bite surfaces(permanent tracks that have high bite and carpet).

Last edited by webspinner; 11-30-2001 at 05:33 PM.
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Old 11-29-2001, 11:25 PM   #1284
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The whole droop terminology is kind of an oxymoron. "Droop" is measured in mm and represents how much higher the bottom of the hub carrier is compared to the bottom of the chassis. Example: 2mm of droop means the bottom of the hub carrier sits 2mm higher than the bottom of the chassis. Here's where it gets stupid. Droop loosely means sag. However when people say "more droop" they mean increasing the gap between hub and chassis...or decreasing sag.

Anyway...when you accelerate, the weight of the car shifts to the rear (depending how much droop you have in front). When you're coasting or braking, the weight of the car tends to shifts back towards the front. As you increase droop you're basically removing the ability of the car to shift weight from the rear to the front when you're coasting or braking. Now in general, when you're entering a turn off-power you rely on the car's weight to shift over the front wheels to help you gain traction. However, if you allow too much weight to shift away from the rear, the rear gets loose because there's no weight to keep the rear planted. This is how all my cars were before I understood droop.

Well, that's pretty much how droop was explained to me. Hope this helps you understand droop and helps you fix your problem if this is what's causing it.
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Old 11-29-2001, 11:28 PM   #1285
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jeff Werner
Just so I can understand this (visual learner) on my trusty Losi droop gage, if I am at 5mm now and wanted less droop (free the car up make it more abrupt) what number would I want on the gage (in theory)?
Oh...to answer your question, you'd want to be at 4mm or lower.
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Old 11-29-2001, 11:53 PM   #1286
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Quote:
Just so I can understand this (visual learner) on my trusty Losi droop gage, if I am at 5mm now and wanted less droop (free the car up make it more abrupt) what number would I want on the gage (in theory)? If I could see this I think I would have a better handle on it.

Thanks for you help,

Jeff
If your at 5mm now using your droop gauge and you want less droop(less shock travel), move up to 6 on your gauge. This is gonna shorten the shock travel 1mm which will free up this end of the car.

Last edited by webspinner; 11-30-2001 at 12:00 AM.
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Old 11-30-2001, 12:57 AM   #1287
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No, going to 6mm would increase droop. As Rog said to decrease droop go to 4mm or less.
Droop is not really changing shock travel. It just changes where the piston is in the shock when it rests.
Also, Proudwinner, when you said to put spacers in your shocks to change droop, your part right. It may change droop but it is fixed, really your only changing ride height.
To change droop without the setscrew you must use less preload on your shocks. Because droop allows one side of the car to rise and the inside of the car to fall when cornering, to give more traction on poor traction surfaces.
Think about it.

Last edited by rccarracer; 11-30-2001 at 01:12 AM.
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Old 11-30-2001, 01:03 AM   #1288
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Proudwinner, you are right in saying though if you move to 6mm the uptravel is decreased. Therefore the downtravel is increased 1mm, unless you place spacers in side the shocks to change the length of overall travel.
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Old 11-30-2001, 03:52 AM   #1289
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This is really getting confusing. I think this stems from the fact that the meaning of droop is to hang downward. So when you say "increase the droop" we (at least I do) interpret as increasing the downward hang.

So let's clear it now:

Does increasing droop in our RC's mean increasing the downward hang (making the outer tip of the arm lower than the inner tip) or decreasing it?
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Old 11-30-2001, 04:04 AM   #1290
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If you increase droop, the chassis is hanging lower than the bottom of the hub carrier. That is, the arms are angled like this \_/ , it is a bit of an exageration, but you get the idea.
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