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Old 11-18-2001, 09:15 PM   #1156
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Anyone try the BRP wide front bumper yet? I haven't been able to locate it locally (So Cal).
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Old 11-18-2001, 09:20 PM   #1157
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Quote:
Originally posted by rodneybarrett
STLNLST:

Are you current running carpet? I want to try a new carpet setup and I'm thinking about trying Matt's setup with the changes you made.

thanks.
I am currently running on carpet and think that Matt's set up with the suggested changes (from my 11-17-2001 10:21pm) post will be a pretty good set up to start with. Although Mo and I have butt heads again today and I may mount up another pair of shocks with 56 pistons and 50wt oil( we still haven't decided on the springs yet) Since Losi doesn't offer a spring in between purple and blue we were thinking of using a Yokomo spring to fill the gap.
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Old 11-18-2001, 09:21 PM   #1158
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rog
Anyone try the BRP wide front bumper yet? I haven't been able to locate it locally (So Cal).
Call Billy at Speedworld (916) 783-8864 they are closed Mon&Tue
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Old 11-18-2001, 09:26 PM   #1159
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Quote:
Originally posted by Schuie Driver
STLNLST:

When you say you trimmed the droop screws from which end did you cut? The end that pushes against the arm or the end where you place your screwdriver? I've had the same problem with my car (I run with foams on carpet) and was wondering how I could work around having the screws stick out.
I did it from the bottom with the hex. The hex seemed to be deep enough so I only took off a tiny bit. I can still adjust my droop like nothing happened.
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Old 11-18-2001, 10:12 PM   #1160
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Sorry to repeat... Has anybody been able to get the complete graphite conversion kit yet? what about the .28 shock set for the front? If yes, where can I order it? Thanks.
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Old 11-18-2001, 11:40 PM   #1161
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Quote:
Originally posted by MDawson
There is no foam in the cartridge in a Losi shock.

The shocks are quite simple. This is how I build.

- Fill shock body to the just where the threads start.
- Insert cartridge and shaft assembly. Shaft should be fully pulled out.
- Screw cartridge assembly halfway in
- Push shaft in slowly to bleed the shock.
- With the shaft fully compressed into the shock body, screw cartridge tight in the shockbody.

That is it.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I agree but I found a little trik to add-->

-take the shock apart and repeat the process(*IMPORTANT*one by one) as fast as you can.

The reason: After the first build, the shock oil in the cartridge isnt completely full, especially if you've let the bodies and cartridge sit awhile to drain out old oil.

You can also soak the cartridge's in the cap of your shock oil right before you build your shock so that there isn't any air the cartridge.

MDawson you're absolutely correct on the instructions for building your losi shocks but what I add absolutely doesn't hurt the performance of the shock unless you retain too much oil. If you got too much oil in the shock and the shock shaft cannot compress you know theres too much oil in the shock, but there isn't any air. The best way I found to build your shocks is to retain as much oil in the shock with absolutely no air.

Give it a try, it can't hurt

Last edited by webspinner; 11-18-2001 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 11-18-2001, 11:51 PM   #1162
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Hey anyone know what Hara means by "pressurizing" yokomo shocks? All I can come up with is that he's saying build your yok shocks like you would an associated tc3 shock. WiCkked d.
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Old 11-19-2001, 02:09 AM   #1163
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Default Servo Saver Question

What kind of servo saver are you guys running with the XXX-S? Do you use the standard one that came with it, or something else?

My car gets an absolute ton of play from the servo saver. I know it's on there right, I've triple checked the damn thing. I'm thinking of putting a different one on there. Any recommendations?

It's a high-speed/torque Futaba servo, like a 9404 I think, one of the nice coreless ones. There's no way it should have that much play. It's a minor problem though, the car's still lightning fast. Should have had 2nd in the A today but with like 45 seconds to go I blew a corner and rolled the car. Didn't even have to get marshalled, but it was enough to drop me two spots... close race!
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Old 11-19-2001, 08:01 AM   #1164
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kenneth Tan
Sorry to repeat... Has anybody been able to get the complete graphite conversion kit yet? what about the .28 shock set for the front? If yes, where can I order it? Thanks.
To the best of my knowledge the graphite conversion is not available yet. Sorry I don't know when they will be. The .28 shock shafts are starting to trickle out but not the fancy ones just the regular kit style ones.
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Old 11-19-2001, 08:03 AM   #1165
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shane, exept for me i was on my own lap....
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Old 11-19-2001, 05:13 PM   #1166
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Bah, I only qualified like half a lap behind you. But yea, you were definitely the fastest one out there, so don't worry, your ego is intact!

Now someone help me with my servo saver problem!
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Old 11-19-2001, 06:19 PM   #1167
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futureal- I'm going to go and check mine out to see if mine is like yours.
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Old 11-19-2001, 06:35 PM   #1168
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Default 41 tooth pulleys

Has anyone tried running the 41 tooth pulleys in both the front and back instead of the stock 42 tooth? This would lower your internal ratio from 1.83 to 1.78. What would the advantage be or has anyone tried this and noticed a difference. I beleive I heard someone at Losi suggesting it would be beneficial for stock racing. Any truth to this?

Thanks

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Old 11-19-2001, 07:43 PM   #1169
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Bobby-

Lowering the internal ratio will make gear changes less dramatic. This will allow you have finer control of gear ratios.

For example, say going down one tooth on the pinion changed your final drive from 6.70 to 6.40; a change of .30.

Well, with a lower internal ratio, going down one tooth on the pinion, you may only go from 6.70 to 6.45, a change of .25.

It is a pretty small change, but stock racing is pretty close to start with.

With 64p gears and the lower ratio, I would think gearing changes could be made within .15 or so with each tooth. That is super fine gearing.
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Old 11-19-2001, 10:36 PM   #1170
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hey guys thanks for all of the posts regarding the shock building. i will try again. still a few questions to clarify though. i understand the process, but there must be some air in the shock for the shock to compress. ok that's not entirely true. if you fill em full, bleed the excess out, and then tighten, a vaccum will be created when the shaft is extended. this would draw the shaft back in and the point of equalization would be when it's compressed. is this how you do it? if not, then there must be some air inside if the piston is being pushed out or neutral. right? if so, how do you keep it from mixing with the oil since no diaphragm can be used. see what i'm saying? i should just rebuild one more time before i go asking all these questions, but i'm going with theory here. ya'know. oh, and just to have something to shoot for... are you saying that you have them feeling so good that no air pockets can be felt or heard? that's what i'm shooting for. thanks a ton. later.

btw - i don't want to give up on the losi shocks as the black anodizing looks killer.
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