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Old 06-27-2004, 11:25 PM   #11326
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Originally posted by JohnMatrix
Arm Spacing
This is something that I have been testing a lot of. 90% of the time I like to have my arms all the way forward. This gives the car a smoother steering feel and makes the car drive super consistent. I have actually been running the front arms another .050 further forward from stock and in my opinion this has yielded the best results on carpet and asphalt racing. This is done by simply shaving .050 off the front pivot support and then adding a .050 shim behind the arm. As you move the arms back on the car you start to increase the front dogbone angle which makes the car steer a lot more aggressively and takes consistency away. Now that I have my arms moved even further forward I needed to correct the Ackerman on the car. This was done by taking the front steering mounts and moving them to the forward holes and flipping them so that the small hole side of the bell crank was pointing forward (take a picture of this so it will be understood better). any pictures? on this. little confussed.
Just take the front 0F/4F and 2F and shave .050" off of it where the hingepins go in.
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Old 06-28-2004, 06:18 AM   #11327
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Randy, what are your thoughts on running the TC3 rear hub carriers on the XXX-S? Several factory guys are doing it, but I tried it last Saturday with the camber link in the suggested position and my car sucked! It was like driving a boat with a sloppy steering wheel, the rear end floated through the turns and it was hard to ever get the car in a straight line. I fought my car all day long and was about .3 a lap off the pace. In the main event I took them off the car and put the Losi hubs back on without changing anything else and BINGO! my car was back in the groove and I battled up front again on pace. Anyway, interested to hear your thoughts on the matter. I was in position 6A on the camber link.

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Old 06-28-2004, 06:22 AM   #11328
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By the way, at our race last Saturday the cops came out and used radar on our cars down the straight and got us at 37 miles an hour... the thing that was funny is we were using part of the street that was blocked off for a City celebration and the speed limit in that part of the street was 30mph which means they could have given us rc racers a speeding ticket! LOL

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Old 06-28-2004, 07:52 AM   #11329
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hey XXX-S Bill

thx for that little article about Todd talking about setting up the car. That helped me alot for my asphalt race Saturday.

One question does anyone know where and how i can get my graphite chassis to look like Matt Frances, Brian Kinwald or Todd Hodges chassis with wierd cut outs and stuff. Do u know someone that does that or how i can get someone to do that. thx


oh one more question how can someone like me get a sponsor ship. cause every person in my class is very competitive and i just need batteries so i can keep up with them.
thx
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Old 06-28-2004, 08:36 AM   #11330
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thats a milled chassis, they do it by drimilling it out.

Very hard or time consuming from what I have read.

I do see one on ebay every few weeks.

On the sponsorship question dont ask me I'm sponsored by W.O.R.K.
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Old 06-28-2004, 10:52 AM   #11331
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Quote:
Originally posted by racer-oZ
Randy, what are your thoughts on running the TC3 rear hub carriers on the XXX-S? Several factory guys are doing it, but I tried it last Saturday with the camber link in the suggested position and my car sucked! It was like driving a boat with a sloppy steering wheel, the rear end floated through the turns and it was hard to ever get the car in a straight line. I fought my car all day long and was about .3 a lap off the pace. In the main event I took them off the car and put the Losi hubs back on without changing anything else and BINGO! my car was back in the groove and I battled up front again on pace. Anyway, interested to hear your thoughts on the matter. I was in position 6A on the camber link.

racer-oZ
Never tried them, I dont see a reason to since my car is usually way dialed with the Losi hubs. I know I have a dialed setup for all of the local tracks now, and none of them use the TC3 hubs. I do have a pair in my box, maybe I'll get around to trying them someday and I can let you know what I think...
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Old 06-28-2004, 05:31 PM   #11332
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Well thanks for the thoughts, I think I'm done with them unless I go to the nats and everyone has them on their car, but even then, I'm like you in that I have been really happy with my car the way it is. I've got some in my box just in case.

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Old 06-28-2004, 06:59 PM   #11333
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Quote:
Originally posted by racer-oZ
Randy, what are your thoughts on running the TC3 rear hub carriers on the XXX-S? Several factory guys are doing it, but I tried it last Saturday with the camber link in the suggested position and my car sucked! It was like driving a boat with a sloppy steering wheel, the rear end floated through the turns and it was hard to ever get the car in a straight line. I fought my car all day long and was about .3 a lap off the pace. In the main event I took them off the car and put the Losi hubs back on without changing anything else and BINGO! my car was back in the groove and I battled up front again on pace. Anyway, interested to hear your thoughts on the matter. I was in position 6A on the camber link.

racer-oZ
The tc3 rear hubs are used to get a shorter rear camberlink than is possible with the stock rear hubs; they get the car to steer more when oneways are illegal like at the reedy race.
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Old 06-28-2004, 07:41 PM   #11334
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Just wondering how youre setting up Droop using the shocks only. I realise you have to screw/unscrew the bottem eyelet but are you measuring the shock shaft while youre doing this or are you test fitting/resizing each time? Using the shock matching tool? Sounds like a hell of alot of work
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Old 06-28-2004, 07:49 PM   #11335
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Need to replace my bearings pretty soon. Need to know what are the best kind to use? Teflon or Metal? I know ceramic but those are a bit more than I'm looking to spend. Where are some good places to get the deals on bearings?
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Old 06-28-2004, 08:00 PM   #11336
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check out http://www.avidrc.com (i think thats it)
and http://www.acerracing.com/
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Old 06-28-2004, 08:10 PM   #11337
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So do you guys use the ACER diff balls as well? Or Losi?
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Old 06-28-2004, 08:17 PM   #11338
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Quote:
Originally posted by NVisible
Just wondering how youre setting up Droop using the shocks only. I realise you have to screw/unscrew the bottem eyelet but are you measuring the shock shaft while youre doing this or are you test fitting/resizing each time? Using the shock matching tool? Sounds like a hell of alot of work
I use a limiter in the front shocks to get 3mm of droop (thinnest plastic limiter Losi makes). In the back I unscrew the eyelets about one full turn to get 5mm of droop. You may have to vary this some depending on what positions you have your shocks mounted at, but this should get you close.
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Old 06-28-2004, 08:26 PM   #11339
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Quote:
Originally posted by Titan Racing
So do you guys use the ACER diff balls as well? Or Losi?
I use stainless steel diff balls from mcmaster-carr. 50 for $3.75... can't beat that...
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Old 06-28-2004, 08:47 PM   #11340
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cardboard
I use stainless steel diff balls from mcmaster-carr. 50 for $3.75... can't beat that...
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Hi Cardboard,

Ceramic diff and thrust bearings are only $1 each. For $40 bucks I can "beat that"; but, not pricewise...he, he...my bad!

The ceramic balls put everything else to shame for smoothness.
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