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Old 11-13-2001, 08:45 PM   #1111
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Quote:
Originally posted by MDawson
if the ballcups are that loose - just replace them. If you are at the track and looking for a quick way to tighten the cups up, just gently pinch the ball cups with pliers.
put a small piece of polywrap between the ball stud and ball cap. this will remove some play. if you are at a track. cut out from a clear plastic bag which comes with your spare parts and place it between the two and this will also do the job.
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Old 11-13-2001, 08:58 PM   #1112
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Default Re: Taking slop out of ballcups

Quote:
Originally posted by Dave Kurschner
If you want to remove slop without binding, go to your local hardware store and pick up some teflon tape..the kind they use to seal threads in plumbing pipes. Its very inexpensive. Put a very small piece of this over the ballstud and snap the cup back over. Remove any excess that might be hanging out with an exacto. Your slop should be gone and still move silky smooth. If the slop is still there, keep adding layers and snap the cup back on until the slop is gone. Give it a try and let me know what you think
Great tip. When you mounted your yokomo shocks did you use the long ends? Rumor has it your giving up on the XXXs....damn that was quick.
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Old 11-13-2001, 10:51 PM   #1113
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Quote:
Originally posted by RacerTex


Thanks, I think I'll try it until the short shafts are out. Would shortening the eyelet change the overall shock length? I don't see how it does. Thanks for the tips.
IF you don't cut the shaft and only shorten the eyelet, you won't change the overall length of the shock, but you'll allow the bottom spring perch to sit lower and it'll help get the ride height down in the front. If you only cut the threads, you won't change anything, the plastic eyelet will still only screw on to the end of the threads.

IF you cut the threads and the eyelet both, you will shorten the overall length a bit.

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Old 11-14-2001, 12:49 AM   #1114
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Hi Guys,

We were told by our manufacture that the bellcranks, inner front hinge-pin mounts, and the inner rear hinge-pin mounts will be done this week, and we should receive them by the end of next week (1 week ahead of schedule). As MDawson have mentioned, the bellcranks add precision to the feel of the steering, and it also take away the flex that the stock plastic piece has. The inner hing-pin mounts will come with low roll center adjustment spacers, so you'll have the option of running either low or regular roll center.

We are taking pre-orders now for them.

We are also working on a aluminum heat sink battery strap with aluminum battery post combo

Thanks

Steve Wang
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www.speedtechrc.com
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Old 11-14-2001, 01:15 AM   #1115
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Default Slop Solution

Dave, that's a damn good idea!
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Old 11-14-2001, 04:53 AM   #1116
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Default XXX-S the big rip-off!!

Loose Cannon,

he's no the only one to give u on that car, mine 's up for sale as well.

Not because of the cars performance, but rather because of the way it's built and marketed.

-- price: for $220 you caqn get a Yokomo pro or TC3 team with almost all the bells and whistles and not a plastic car with NOTHING on it.
In RC Car Action they gave the XXX-S the win over the Yok special because of it's cheaper price. That's the most ridiculous thing I ever read.
If you'd buy every hopup that the $275 Yok has for the XXX-S it would cost you close to $350.

- parts availability: My hobby shop has excellent connections to Horizon since the owner flies airplanes with one of the Horizon co-owners. Usually we get certain things before the SoCal boys. Even with those connections my LHS is not able to support 3 measly Losi's with spare parts or hop ups in a timely manner.
Associated did a MUCH better job wit the TC3 at the beginning.
I even get Yokomo parts quicker than Losi parts.

-parts pricing: I broke a one-way outdrive cup 2 weeks ago (nasty motor, nasty pipe)
The part finally came in yesterday. FREAKING $8 for a plastic outdrive? I couldn't believe it. Yok sells two outdrives for $4.50 and one-way outdrives made of steel for $5.
Losi sell threaded shock bodies only, for 19.95/ pair. From Yok I get a complete pair of threaded schocks for $22.

My Yok handles as good as the XXX-S, so the Losi is GONE!!!!

Just my 2 cents.
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Old 11-14-2001, 06:16 AM   #1117
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Quote:
Originally posted by Trips


IF you don't cut the shaft and only shorten the eyelet, you won't change the overall length of the shock, but you'll allow the bottom spring perch to sit lower and it'll help get the ride height down in the front. If you only cut the threads, you won't change anything, the plastic eyelet will still only screw on to the end of the threads.

IF you cut the threads and the eyelet both, you will shorten the overall length a bit.

Trips
OK, I get it. Thanks for the clarification. Hopefully it helps some until the short shafts are out. I appreciate the help.
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Old 11-14-2001, 07:17 AM   #1118
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Stefan ,

If you are so unhappy give me your best price on the car shipped in US, I could always use spare parts.....


Dan
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Old 11-14-2001, 07:58 AM   #1119
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Well it happens with every new car, everyone goes and gets one, then once it starts getting used some people find that it isn't the car for their driving style and sell it. I for one love the car for my driving style it works better than my Yoke or Schumacher.
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Old 11-14-2001, 11:13 AM   #1120
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Kraig - Yes, its the white stuff. Teflon tape is ultra thin and feels almost like a lubricant to the touch.

Mark Dawson - Sorry, but I have to disagree with you. The Losi ballcups that come with the car do display some slop. If you choose to keep the Losi cups, teflon tape is a good permanent fix for the play. Also, squeezing the ballcup with a pliers (if its attached to the ball) makes it freer or looser, not tighter.

Loose Cannon - I picked up some TC3 shock bottoms to better fit the 4-40 screws. I trimmed about .150 off of them for the front shocks and left the back ones alone. You gotta love the ol rumor mill. I still have the car, doing some homework on it, then I'll decide.
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Old 11-14-2001, 11:21 AM   #1121
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It is ok to disagree.
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Old 11-14-2001, 03:12 PM   #1122
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Oooooh, is it really?
This is a great relief, thank you for clearing this up
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Old 11-15-2001, 10:22 AM   #1123
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Default Foam Tire Setup

Hey guys

I wanted to share my latest setup on my XXX-S. I'm running on a rather tight but wide lane carpet track with foam tires and stock motor in 5 minute races.

Front:
60 wt oil, 57 piston, black spring, shocks #3 hole, 4 degree castor blocks, 2 deg kickup, -1.5 camber, 1 deg toe out, 4.5 mm ride height, low roll center, no sway bar, 2 droop

Rear:
50 wt oil, 57 piston, blue spring, shocks #3 hole and outside on arm, 0 deg antisquat, -1 deg camber, 1/2 degree hubs on backwards, #2 & B rear link, 4.5 mm ride height, low roll center, no sway bar, 5 droop

Tires:
TRC Purple front and rear, 1/3 traction compound on front, full on rear.

Misc:
batteries forward, P2K geared 25/90, belt loose as possible,
all graphite car, 41 tooth pulley in rear diff.


The car worked great and really only needed a bit more low speed steering and we can fix that next week.
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Old 11-15-2001, 08:03 PM   #1124
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Hi guys have you seen the new xtreme mag. In the Todd Hodge overview hes says to do something with the rear hub carrier ballstud can you please explain that to the fullest and how i would do it????
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Old 11-15-2001, 11:27 PM   #1125
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All you have to do is go out and purchase the Losi Titanium Long head ball stud.

Replace the short ball stud with the long ball stud.

File off a little of the ball cup top to so it does not rub on the inside of the rim.

That is it.
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