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Old 11-13-2001, 11:49 AM   #1096
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I want the piston lower in the oil also. Does anyone know if cutting some of the thread down in the original shock shaft would help?
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Old 11-13-2001, 01:57 PM   #1097
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Anyone using the heavy duty RPM ball cups? Are they proving to have less slop than the standard kit plastic ball ends?

I am unhappy with the slop in the steering up front caused by the play in the ball ends. Any suggestions? I don't like o-rings in between the ball cup and ball end because it causes binding.

Anyone try the one-way on carpet with foams? How did the car go with it compared to the diff?

I am trying an MVP out. Any suggestions for gearing? I was running a P2K with 88/24 or 23.

Thanks everyone.
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Old 11-13-2001, 02:00 PM   #1098
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Also, anyone try out the Lunsford titanium hingepins? I have a set on order and I was just curious.
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Old 11-13-2001, 02:06 PM   #1099
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Ty- I have been using Lunsford TI hingepins on my car for a couple of months now. I have had no binding or bending problems with them. They do save a lot of weight, I do not know how much they save but it is a good bit.
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Old 11-13-2001, 02:12 PM   #1100
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The Losi ball-cups are fine. I have been running Aluminum steering bellcranks (w/bearings) for the last two months. The steering is much more precise than my other car that runs the standard composite bellcranks (w/bearings).
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Old 11-13-2001, 02:18 PM   #1101
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MDawson,
I might have to try out those Speed Tech bell cranks then. Thanks. I like the silver finish more than the red too.


Thanks for the info ChadK.
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Old 11-13-2001, 05:20 PM   #1102
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Quote:
Originally posted by RacerTex
I want the piston lower in the oil also. Does anyone know if cutting some of the thread down in the original shock shaft would help?
It'll help some, also think about shortening the plastic eyelet that screws onto the end of the shock shaft at the same time. Make sure to keep both shocks as equal as possible.

If you cut the shafts, take maybe .080-.100 or so off.

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Old 11-13-2001, 05:22 PM   #1103
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Man, I saw today that somebody had ordered the red Matt Francis motor mount from Trinity at our local shop. For the whopping price of $22.99. Are they f'ing kidding me? $23 for a little piece of red aluminum? What a joke. Trinity must think we are all idiots.

On the flipside of the coin, KT Hobbies is selling the graphite conversion kit for the car for $85. Guess I'll get one after all, that's a damn fine deal. I mean, that's like the same cost as three or four Trinity aluminum hop-up parts. Gee, which would you rather have? haha
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Old 11-13-2001, 05:50 PM   #1104
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Anyone know if the 64 pitch gears or body post brace has been made available yet?
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Old 11-13-2001, 06:02 PM   #1105
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Quote:
Originally posted by futureal
Man, I saw today that somebody had ordered the red Matt Francis motor mount from Trinity at our local shop. For the whopping price of $22.99. Are they f'ing kidding me? $23 for a little piece of red aluminum? What a joke. Trinity must think we are all idiots.

On the flipside of the coin, KT Hobbies is selling the graphite conversion kit for the car for $85. Guess I'll get one after all, that's a damn fine deal. I mean, that's like the same cost as three or four Trinity aluminum hop-up parts. Gee, which would you rather have? haha
yes Trinity sucks big time
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Old 11-13-2001, 06:06 PM   #1106
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Quote:
Originally posted by futureal
Man, I saw today that somebody had ordered the red Matt Francis motor mount from Trinity at our local shop. For the whopping price of $22.99. Are they f'ing kidding me? $23 for a little piece of red aluminum? What a joke. Trinity must think we are all idiots.
The guy who bought the motor mount certainly was!!!!!
Trinity should stick to making motors.............
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Old 11-13-2001, 07:05 PM   #1107
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Quote:
Originally posted by Trips


It'll help some, also think about shortening the plastic eyelet that screws onto the end of the shock shaft at the same time. Make sure to keep both shocks as equal as possible.

If you cut the shafts, take maybe .080-.100 or so off.

Trips
Thanks, I think I'll try it until the short shafts are out. Would shortening the eyelet change the overall shock length? I don't see how it does. Thanks for the tips.
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Old 11-13-2001, 07:23 PM   #1108
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Default Taking slop out of ballcups

If you want to remove slop without binding, go to your local hardware store and pick up some teflon tape..the kind they use to seal threads in plumbing pipes. Its very inexpensive. Put a very small piece of this over the ballstud and snap the cup back over. Remove any excess that might be hanging out with an exacto. Your slop should be gone and still move silky smooth. If the slop is still there, keep adding layers and snap the cup back on until the slop is gone. Give it a try and let me know what you think
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Old 11-13-2001, 08:20 PM   #1109
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Dave is that the white stuff? Sorry, I am not a plumbing just an impersonator.

Shane thanks for the kind words.
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Old 11-13-2001, 08:28 PM   #1110
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if the ballcups are that loose - just replace them. If you are at the track and looking for a quick way to tighten the cups up, just gently pinch the ball cups with pliers.
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