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Old 03-14-2004, 08:10 PM   #9241
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Default xxx-s for sale.

I am selling my xxx-s graphite plus with ceramic bearings and black belt etc. Email for pics and pricing.

I am clearing out my inventory of rc cars for spring.

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Old 03-14-2004, 10:37 PM   #9242
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Randman- Good seeing you again. That chassis looks even better in person than it does in your pics. I guess I'll see you at the Reedy race if we all get in.
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Old 03-15-2004, 01:59 AM   #9243
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Quote:
Originally posted by Shev
Hi Tones,

Currently I'm racing at Bundaberg, which is a long fast track, but I've also been travelling to Logan a couple of times and racing at Slacks Creek. I'm running a monster stock (currently trying out the epic binary) with about a 32.44 rollout. Purple springs on the front, silver on the back with a swaybar. 50 weight oil front and rear. My ride height is 4.5 mm front and 5mm rear. and you were right about the foams. 40 frong and 35 rear seem to be working well for me at the moment. I'm not running a front oneway but I'm super keen to get one. Hopefully you can help me out a bit with this information. Thankyou.
in stock the monster seems to be the hot ticket aslong as you dont have a dud one - i've seen a few that have been VERY poorly wound (big bunny ears poking out of the stacks) and no balancing.. which obviously end up being slow on the track.

with the foams on asphalt, i feel the best way to go is to try to run the hardest compounds you can get away with - but you dont want to take this too far or you'll end up losing traction.

at logan i've been running 42's on the front and 40's on the rear. some are also running 42's all round with good success.

i think the softer tyres can make it alot easier to scrub off too much corner speed, and rob you of a little straight line speed also.


another thing to think about in stock is that on long fast tracks like logan, is that i've found the losi alfa to be a bit slower (by a couple of tenths) than a body with much less agressive aero (like a stratus) despite it feeling more planted in the corners, simply becuase the car isn't having to pull along that parachute of a rear wing


if you want to try some things out, here's the setup that has worked very well for me in the past with a diff:

front end- 50wt, 56 piston, purple spring, #2 shock location, camber link #3 to a chrome ball stud with no washers, 2mm of droop (losi gauge), HRC blocks with 0F in HRC and 4deg castor blocks, front arm .030" forward from middle w/ ackerman position back, no bump steer spacing, 0 deg of toe, -1.5deg camber (adjust to coning of tyres) and 4.5mm ride height.

rear end- 50wt, 56 piston, purple spring, #2-inside with the shock, cabler link a-1 with black ballstud no shims, 4mm of droop (losi gauge), HRC blocks with 0R in HRC, arms middle, stock 2deg rear toe with standard (not off-set) rear end, same deal with camber as front and 4.5mm ride height.

42 Front tyres (specific front compound) and 40 rears - both 26mm wide, standard 42/42 drive and batts forward.

the car was working very well with that... think i got everyhting

Last edited by tones; 03-15-2004 at 03:17 AM.
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Old 03-15-2004, 02:15 AM   #9244
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Quote:
Originally posted by STLNLST
Randman- Good seeing you again. That chassis looks even better in person than it does in your pics. I guess I'll see you at the Reedy race if we all get in.
Good to see you too man, I got a ton of compliments on the chassis over the weekend, even Matt was showin it off to a couple people

My Reedy entry is in, so hopefully the lottery will be kind to me

I couldn't get the car figured out all weekend, but still had a good time, hopefully next year I'll be able to figure things out a little quicker.
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Old 03-15-2004, 07:36 AM   #9245
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OK someone help me out please. I've been in school for the last 2 years and have only had the chance to race 2 or 3 times in that time frame. Now I'm making time to start up racing again, and I've got some questions. It's been a while since I've touched my xxx-s, so bear with me.

I've been trying to make heads or tails of the DOZENS of ways you guys set your droop and ride height. I'm also confused on how exactly to use losi's droop gauge. The numbers on that gauge get smaller the farther down you go. This seems backwards to me. Shouldn't the numbers get higher as you go down the gauge, as that means you have MORE droop? Also, from where in the arm do you measure, because if you measure the fronts from the hub carrier, then you have to take into account the set screw in the hub carrier, right?

I've also seen some of you drill holes in your arms and install screws in them. Doesn't this make the arm extremely weak? Are most of you still using the stock droop screws? Have you done anything to combat the flex of the soft bumpers that the droop screw mount into?

I guess basically I'm looking for a step by step on how to most precisely ste the droop on my car.
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Old 03-15-2004, 08:02 AM   #9246
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Quote:
Originally posted by cartmen34
OK someone help me out please. I've been in school for the last 2 years and have only had the chance to race 2 or 3 times in that time frame. Now I'm making time to start up racing again, and I've got some questions. It's been a while since I've touched my xxx-s, so bear with me.

I've been trying to make heads or tails of the DOZENS of ways you guys set your droop and ride height. I'm also confused on how exactly to use losi's droop gauge. The numbers on that gauge get smaller the farther down you go. This seems backwards to me. Shouldn't the numbers get higher as you go down the gauge, as that means you have MORE droop? Also, from where in the arm do you measure, because if you measure the fronts from the hub carrier, then you have to take into account the set screw in the hub carrier, right?

I've also seen some of you drill holes in your arms and install screws in them. Doesn't this make the arm extremely weak? Are most of you still using the stock droop screws? Have you done anything to combat the flex of the soft bumpers that the droop screw mount into?

I guess basically I'm looking for a step by step on how to most precisely ste the droop on my car.
Well, you are at the right place.

Spend a few hours reading this forum from start to finish. Also go over to the Todd Hodge string for some higher end information.

I agree that the droop gauge numbers seem to be backwards; so, that college logic of yours is showing....he, he...

Hardly anyone racing is using the droop screws on their XXX-S'.
To adjust droop at all four corners, we use a plastic internal shock spacer (LOSA5050) and screw/unscrew the ball end on the shaft (for micro adjusts). You will find a lot about that on the Hodgemoto string.

Good luck.
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Old 03-15-2004, 09:38 AM   #9247
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Quote:
Originally posted by XXX-S Bill
Well, you are at the right place.

Spend a few hours reading this forum from start to finish. Also go over to the Todd Hodge string for some higher end information.

I agree that the droop gauge numbers seem to be backwards; so, that college logic of yours is showing....he, he...

Hardly anyone racing is using the droop screws on their XXX-S'.
To adjust droop at all four corners, we use a plastic internal shock spacer (LOSA5050) and screw/unscrew the ball end on the shaft (for micro adjusts). You will find a lot about that on the Hodgemoto string.

Good luck.
So do you use the same sized shock spacer in all four corners? What about running with foams? Don't you have to be constantly resetting your droop to compensate for tire diameter reduction? Do you just let the car run lower and lower ride height as the tires shrink? Seems like a lot of work to adjust something that needs to be so perfect to get a properly handling car...

You'd think losi would have redesigned the arm/droop screw setup on this car a long time ago. Where's Losi's R&D dept on this one?!?
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Old 03-15-2004, 09:59 AM   #9248
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There is a tutorial on how to do it on the team losi site....has pics to show you too

Later EddieO
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Old 03-15-2004, 10:24 AM   #9249
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Quote:
Originally posted by EddieO
There is a tutorial on how to do it on the team losi site....has pics to show you too

Later EddieO

Yeah, been there, tried that. It uses their droop gauge, which makes no sense to me, so I'm here to ask how people in the real world do it.

Their droop gauge makes no sense because... well it's backwards if you asked me. Let's say you need 4mm of droop in the front and 5mm of droop in the back. Well if you think about it, that means that when the tires are off the ground, the rear tires should be 1mm closer to the ground than the front tires. But if you use the losi gauge setting the front to 4mm and the back to 5mm, then check it, the rear is actually HIGHER than the front! And also, now get this: The numbers on losi's gauge aren't actually real droop indicators in the true sense of droop.

Actual droop is measured by the distance from the bottom of the tires to the bottom of the chassis while the car is "unsprung", meaning the tires are off the ground. Since the losi gauge has you measure from the bottom of the suspension arm to the bottom of the chassis, this is not a real indicator of your actual droop.
Your ride height is measured by the distance from the ground to the bottom of your chassis while the car is in it's RTR state and "sprung" or the tires are on the ground and the suspension is supporting the full weight of the car.

THEREFORE! *stops to breath* the losi gauge is and incorrect measuring procedure...yes?

Now, somebody correct me, but I think I'm right on this one... or do I have my terms and measuring procedures all bassackwards?
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Old 03-15-2004, 10:39 AM   #9250
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The best way to use the Losi guage is to look at the reading so that the smaller number is the more droop. So on that guage 4mm of droop is more droop than 5mm.... I think
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Old 03-15-2004, 10:46 AM   #9251
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Read somewhere that BK uses two Kimbrough spur gears. They are 5mm wide, so he uses one for ride height (5mm) and two stacked for 10mm and adjust from there to get the tires to just touch the surface. This comes out to be 5mm of droop with 5mm ride height.
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Old 03-15-2004, 11:38 AM   #9252
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I use a kimbough gear, i set my ride height at roughly 3.8 in the front, and 4.2 in the back, i have different gears shaved to different sizes, and yes it is low, it's as low as i can go.
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Old 03-15-2004, 11:42 AM   #9253
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It's not just the Losi droop gauge that measures droop that way, all of them that I've seen measure droop that way. Droop is measured from the bottom of the chassis to the bottom of the blocks. The more droop you have, the smaller number you'll have.
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Old 03-15-2004, 12:09 PM   #9254
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Here's a pic of my carpet ride, check out how much weight I had to add to get it at minimum.
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Old 03-15-2004, 12:10 PM   #9255
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Quote:
Originally posted by RKeasler
Read somewhere that BK uses two Kimbrough spur gears. They are 5mm wide, so he uses one for ride height (5mm) and two stacked for 10mm and adjust from there to get the tires to just touch the surface. This comes out to be 5mm of droop with 5mm ride height.
This is the way I've been doing it for all my touring car racing years. However, now I'm moving to carpet, where 5mm difference between droop and ride height is going to get me excess body roll and be bad for my overall lap times.
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