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Old 08-24-2001, 09:12 AM   #76
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sirspeedy...that brought a tear to my eye.....thank you....very enlightening....
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Old 08-24-2001, 11:42 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally posted by TSR6
I was planning on getting the Bearings. 5 x 8's, i just haven't gotten them yet. It always slips my mind on my way home from work. We get so busy sometimes i can't buy my own stuff
I have access to a XXX-S and being honest I have some things that p*ss me a lot of the car:

On a car of this price, getting plastic bushings for the steering seems me a big no no. Jil Losi Jr should have dropped 4 5x8 BB for the steering, or, at least 4 bronze bushings.

The weight... (God! >57oz is a big beef ) for being competitive in terms of weight with this car you need to spend a minimum of 100US$ on graphite parts and more bucks for a lightweight CVD's.

But not is ugly in this car. The 'little' detail of having a rail to guide the cable for the receiver along the motor is fine.

The car I get is for my brother, to initiate in touring racing, but these 'little' details needs to be paid in attention.
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Old 08-24-2001, 11:49 AM   #78
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Corse,

I don't see any validity to your post other than the bearings for the steering.

AS far as the weight goes...I am able to compete just fine with the kit parts. Lightening would improve acceleration, but the car is just fine as is. The margin of performance increase would not be noticeable to the average racer. I could find better things to spend my $100 on.

This car is just like any others out there. You gotta be able to drive the car to be able to compete.

If you are here to hack, then go elsewhere. The car has already proven itself and your points are null.
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Old 08-24-2001, 11:53 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally posted by MASTER XXX-S
I am curious how the clicking is going to affect long term belt wear. I understand that it is alright, but I just don't want to be replacing belts every six months.
I run modified with my car and a XXX-S, and I adjusted the belt tensioner to have a vertical slop of 6mm (measured with a rule). Getting tigher than this can cause some binding on the tranny on heavy acceleration, less than this can cause some flipping over the diff tooths.
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Old 08-24-2001, 12:03 PM   #80
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Master XXX-s and Trips,

Thanks for the reply. I noticed that the internal gear ration for the XXX-S is smaller than cars I have run previously so I was over geared for my local track. I came right down to a 22 tooth pinion and still had plenty of speed down the straight and tremendous acceleration infield.
This car is fast, even though it's quite heavy. So don't be put of by comments about weight if anyone is considering this car.

Listened to another XXX-S gear train and my seems fine. I just got used to the 64dp gears on my HPI, compared to a TC3 mine is quiet.

Are the threaded shock bodies for the XXX-S the same as the Street Weapon and are the alloy rings a separate item?

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Old 08-24-2001, 12:20 PM   #81
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Yes the street weapon threaded shocks will fit. And yes the metal collars are seperate from trinity.
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Old 08-24-2001, 12:24 PM   #82
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XXXS guys, how easy is it to change the belt in Losi's new car, do you have to tear it all apart to get it out and get a new one in? Or is it possible to replace it without tearing the car apart?
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Old 08-24-2001, 12:34 PM   #83
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All you have to do is remove one of the diff covers and the steering tunnel and the spur. I think it would take you about 5 minutes??
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Old 08-24-2001, 12:54 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally posted by Corse-R


I have access to a XXX-S and being honest I have some things that p*ss me a lot of the car:

On a car of this price, getting plastic bushings for the steering seems me a big no no. Jil Losi Jr should have dropped 4 5x8 BB for the steering, or, at least 4 bronze bushings.

The weight... (God! >57oz is a big beef ) for being competitive in terms of weight with this car you need to spend a minimum of 100US$ on graphite parts and more bucks for a lightweight CVD's
I disagree, I will not be buying graphite parts. For now i will be leaving it stock, and concentratng on getting batteries, and other misc. stuff. I don't feel it has to have the graphite to make it faster. I also don't see the big diff in CVD's. I could throw some Aluminum ones i have on there, but i'm not going to. I feel it is fine the way it is.

You dont need anything.. It is fast the way it is. I would suggest getting the bearings for the steering. It makes it a little more responcive.. But it isnt NEEDED either... its just nice to have
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Old 08-24-2001, 01:05 PM   #85
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Yorkie,

You can use the SW threaded shock bodies. The aluminum shock collars are from Trinity. Bother are sold seperately.
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Old 08-24-2001, 02:12 PM   #86
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SirSpeedy: Thanks for the post! I may have to have you type something similar up for our upcoming "How To/Definitions" section of the web site...

Corse-R: I definitely agree on the steering. It's not so much a performance thing as it is the fact that the bushings will wear out rather quickly, and before you know it you'll lose some responsiveness in the steering.

When I built my XXX-S, I put 4 bearings in the steering and Lunsford titanium all around, along with GS ball studs and ball cups on every point but the ball-stud/kingpin on the front carriers. Those Losi ballcups wear out way too fast, and man, those little foamy things they give you are hideous
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Old 08-24-2001, 02:15 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally posted by MASTER XXX-S
All you have to do is remove one of the diff covers and the steering tunnel and the spur. I think it would take you about 5 minutes??
Wouldn't you need to take both diff covers off to get the belt around both diffs? I'm thinking four screws on each side for the two diff covers, and two for the belt tensioner, and then the seven little ones on the bottom for the dust cover. So that's a total of 17 screws, but once you get the stuff off, getting the belt in is a snap. Still a faster change than any other 2-belt car I can think of...
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Old 08-24-2001, 02:18 PM   #88
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I don't think you need to remove the bottom plate. I forgot about the other diff though. you can pull the belt through the tunnel once you have it free. Those tiny screws on the bottom would be a pain that you wouldn't have to worry about.
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Old 08-24-2001, 03:41 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally posted by SirSpeedy
The same is true with the front. Less kick up/anti-dive will result in more wieght transfer to the front when offpower. Running more anti-dive will apply more pressure to the front tires under braking, much like anti-squat applys pressure to the rears.
Just one thing... Looking at the front end, it seems most people are calling kickup anti-dive, when kickup in front will actually make the front dive MORE under braking and lift the front under acceleration. For true anti-dive effect, you'd have to have the front of the hinge pins lower, not higher.

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Old 08-24-2001, 04:41 PM   #90
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Correct.

My post read that way to me.....lol....

" running less kick up/anti-dive....." by that I meant , " running less kick up OR running antidive......."

Anti dive doesn't really begin until the arms start to tip foward, or 'kick-down'. Kind of a misnomer there.
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