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Old 01-03-2004, 11:41 PM   #8326
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im thinking of running stock and 19t also. we'll see how many heats we have in between.
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Old 01-04-2004, 02:12 AM   #8327
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This is directed to anyone, when you guys change oils and pistons in combination how much of a difference in oil wt do you guys change. I am running 56 pistons with losi 60wt oil right now, looking for a little more traction all around but with the same damping characteristics as I have right now. Would dropping to a 55 piston and going up to 70wt oil feel somewhat the same with a little more traction? Have I totally lost you guys?
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Old 01-04-2004, 02:30 AM   #8328
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Old 01-04-2004, 10:24 AM   #8329
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Quote:
Originally posted by James Nguyen
This is directed to anyone, when you guys change oils and pistons in combination how much of a difference in oil wt do you guys change. I am running 56 pistons with losi 60wt oil right now, looking for a little more traction all around but with the same damping characteristics as I have right now. Would dropping to a 55 piston and going up to 70wt oil feel somewhat the same with a little more traction? Have I totally lost you guys?
After looking at your set up yesterday I would think that you migjht want to try coming down in spring rate some to get more traction. You may bee too stiff with 60wt and purple springs. Try 50wt with 56 pistons and greem springs up front and blue in the rear. Your set up yesterday looked so good I'd only change the rear spring to green and try that for a little more traction.
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Old 01-04-2004, 05:04 PM   #8330
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racer-oZ- I think that the shorter the rear link is the more steering you have over the rear of your car. The longer the more stable it is and more locked in it is. I think has you give the rear more camber gain it gives you more rear traction and slows down the transition of the car.

James Nguyen-I run my front arms full forward plus another .060" and with that arm position I always run the ackerman in the forward position and have the bellcranks flipped. If I move my arms back .120"(middle position) I will then put my bellcranks back to stock position. In general I just try to keep the angle of my steering links the same as I move my arms forward or back. On the oil/piston setup you will want to drop 10 wt when going to a bigger hole piston. If you are racing rubber tires on carpet you will want to try a bigger hole piston...it will give you more grip. Even try some #54 pistons.
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Old 01-04-2004, 05:38 PM   #8331
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would the oil combo of 50 front, 70 rear, make my rear very loose, or, would it not, could it be good on a tight track?
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Old 01-04-2004, 05:48 PM   #8332
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I would say that combo would be to thick for a tight track. The car would be to lazy and because of it, loose. I've found 40 front and 50 rear to work out best on tight tracks.
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Old 01-04-2004, 05:58 PM   #8333
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how bout 50 all around, i guess the track would be similar to trackside in size, but brand new carpet, so less traction.
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Old 01-04-2004, 06:08 PM   #8334
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Well, compared to 40 in the front it would take away some steering. For a tight track that may not be the best thing. What pistons are you running..?
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Old 01-04-2004, 07:50 PM   #8335
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red front, orange back, i believe that would be 55 front, 57 back, maybe i'm wrong? Also, i was looking at my new front arms, and noticed, do you have to have that graphite bar that wraps around the hub on the outside. My last arm broke there, just wondering if people cut those off, or if it brakes there, not to worry?
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Old 01-04-2004, 09:33 PM   #8336
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Quote:
Originally posted by T. Hodge
On the oil/piston setup you will want to drop 10 wt when going to a bigger hole piston. If you are racing rubber tires on carpet you will want to try a bigger hole piston...it will give you more grip. Even try some #54 pistons.
Cool...I'm running 56 pistons with 60wt and purple losi springs right now, if I go to 54 pistons with 40 wt should I change my spring rate to go softer, stiffer or same? Thanks again Todd.
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Old 01-04-2004, 10:17 PM   #8337
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Hi all, I'm running 35 wt oil and pink springs in the back and 40 wt oil and blue springs up front. High roll center up front and low in the back. What can I do to quicken the cars side to side movement but won't break the tail end loose? I'm also running orange pistons in the back and reds in the front and 2mm droop up front and 4mm droop in the back and no sway bars.

Thanks!
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Old 01-04-2004, 11:10 PM   #8338
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Hello Todd, it's an honor to see you on this forum helping people. Can you tell me who wrote the "tuning tips" section in the IWC street weapon's manual?
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Old 01-05-2004, 12:11 AM   #8339
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What's the best technique to building losi shocks? I built some going by what the book said and it doesn't rebound nor does it compress all the way. When I bleed a little more out it still doesn't compress, instead the shaft pulls back in after being pulled out. Something is wrong. Help.
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Old 01-05-2004, 12:15 AM   #8340
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James, I've rebuilt losi shocks at least 100X in my R/C years, and if the shaft doesn't rebound but does the opposite like you stated you are bleeding them right. Here's how I do it, first I do all the shocks like the manual says and when I finished building all I will do each one again trying to retain as much oil as I can in the cartridge as I can. It seems if you don't have enough oil in the shock the shaft won't rompress nor decompress and alot of this is due to no oil in the cartridge. Hope this helps, hey what happened to the mission?
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