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Old 01-02-2004, 11:49 AM   #8281
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hey guys i just got a xxxs from ebay and havent used the car yet, i was just wondering if you had any thaughts for a starting setup for a polished wood floor its got hardly and grip.
O and heres a pic of my car it only cost 130 the way it is there, which i thought wasnt bad considering the speedo thats in it
o and i will be taking most of the red stuff off to lighten it up a bity because i ehard xxxs' were quite heavy as it is
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Old 01-02-2004, 11:56 AM   #8282
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wow! that is a lot of red. Where are you racing on polished hard wood floors? I would have no idea setup wise. That's not exactly a normal racing surface.
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Old 01-02-2004, 12:12 PM   #8283
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i race in scotland theres quite a lot of clubs in britian use that surface because the majority of school halls have changed from carpet to wood or linolium which is what i race on but its got the same charactaristics as wood. Iv set up wuite a few cars for this track but was jsut wondering if you guys had an tips fr this specific car.
This kind of track does teach you alot about driving because you have to anticipate the corners more becaus you kind are half sliding while going through them and you need good throttle control, also i think it is more rewarding to drive a clean race on this because it si so small and slidy our hall is only about 20x15 metres.
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Old 01-02-2004, 12:32 PM   #8284
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Todd, is that theory the opposite for the rear end of the car? The reason I ask is that in testing camber links, it seems the shorter links of front give the car more steering, but shorter links in the rear seem to give the car less rear traction.

Interested to here your thoughts on that.

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Old 01-02-2004, 01:27 PM   #8285
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what does laying your shocks down(or standing them up), do for your handling, front and back?
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Old 01-02-2004, 01:40 PM   #8286
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Clint - I'll be there. What shock setup were you running on your car?

Todd - Thanks a lot. That was a great explanation. Do you have any input on when to run the steering rack in the forward position or forward flipped instead of in the back position?
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Old 01-02-2004, 02:11 PM   #8287
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pro3racer, For most cars on carpet, if you lay the shocks down, that end of the car will have more grip because the car can roll more/easier. If you stand the shocks up more the car will tend to roll less at that end and have less grip at that end of the car.

Racer-OZ, I have always thought of camber links like suspension arms: longer arms provide more stability, won't transition as fast, while a shorter one will yeild less grip but transition quicker.
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Old 01-02-2004, 02:48 PM   #8288
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thanx gary, do you run 28mm foams, if you do, or anybody, do your use any different ball cups, or just dremel them down so the tires don't rub.
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Old 01-02-2004, 02:53 PM   #8289
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I run Take Off 27's
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Old 01-02-2004, 03:10 PM   #8290
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I have noticed that with GP's the balance left/right is a way off.
Has someone tried 5 cells on the left and the 6th at the right side, just near the servo, instead of putting lead?
It's completely creasy?
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Old 01-02-2004, 03:42 PM   #8291
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RC Driver Gary, I agree with you on the fact that shorter camber links provide quicker transition, but what I've found is the front and rear ends are kind of opposites.

What I mean is this, laying the shocks in on the front has made my XXX-S push, standing them up gives the car more traction and more steering. But on the rear it is just the opposite, laying the shocks down gives more traction or side bite, standing them up gives less side bite, but more forward traction.

Same with camber links, shorter links in the rear have given me less traction, but in the front shorter links give me more traction and steering.

In any event this is a great discussion! I'm interested to hear more input.

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Old 01-02-2004, 03:48 PM   #8292
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what surface? I am talking in regards to carpet. For some reason I have found my asphalt and carpet setups are almost 180 degrees opposite. you have to remember too that you will normally make opposite changes trying to do the same thing to each end of the car. Removing caster up front gives the car more steering. Removing caster in the back aka anti squat should make the car push more. at least this is what I've found
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Old 01-02-2004, 03:57 PM   #8293
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Im going to get some Fukuyama batteries soon. Ill let you know how they work in my xxxs graphite. They are 1.165-1.169 voltage
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Old 01-02-2004, 04:15 PM   #8294
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i'm remaking my spool, and my lhs doesn't have the pads, so i'm using sand paper, and the losi site doesn't have instructions on how to make the spool, only the diff, and i don't have the manual. do you just take the balls(pulley, and thrust), and put the pads on.
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Old 01-02-2004, 05:17 PM   #8295
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC Driver Gary
pro3racer, For most cars on carpet, if you lay the shocks down, that end of the car will have more grip because the car can roll more/easier. If you stand the shocks up more the car will tend to roll less at that end and have less grip at that end of the car.

Racer-OZ, I have always thought of camber links like suspension arms: longer arms provide more stability, won't transition as fast, while a shorter one will yeild less grip but transition quicker.
Gary....when you lay the shocks down they get more progressive so the roll stiffness is increased through the arc of the arm movement. You also get more weight transfer front to back with the shocks laid down. With them stood up they are softer in the roll movement and will transfer less weight front to back. The biggest change you will see is in weight transfer and that is where your "Traction" is coming from. So your statement that you get more grip b/c they roll easier with them laid down is incorrect.....you get a stiffer shock with them laid down but more weight transfer. If your front shocks are laid down more then your rear the car is going to dive into the corner b/c of the weight transfer and this will give your more steering entering but once you hit the gas the car will rock back and add more weight to the back of the car and then take away steering exiting the corner. Now your droop also comes into play here and that can limit the amount of uptravel which would help keep the steering on power with the shock laid in if you limit your front droop and not let the chassis rock to far back and transfer too much weight to the back of the car. The samething holds true for the back of the car.

Also camber links are misunderstood a lot of times. They do more to the camber gain and loss of the tire through the arc of the suspension movement and that's where you are getting your stability. When the camber rod is on more of an angle down from the inside out it will have a lot of camber gain....and the shorter you make it the more it will have....so the camber gain of the tire will increase as the suspension compresses....thus decreasing your traction in that tire. If the link is more level inside to outside the camber will remain fairly constant through out the movement. If the rod is at an angle up from the inside to the outside there will be less camber and even positive camber as it compresses so that would yield even more traction to that tire as the suspension moves. Also the shorter you make the tie rod the easier it is to move.....so the car will react faster with a shorter link then a longer one. Hope this helps alittle.
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