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Old 12-30-2003, 01:45 AM   #8221
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Okay, 30 minutes later and I'm all done. At the end I had 2 teeth together but they were the last 2... I checked and didn't accidentally cut 2 off together, so it's just the number of teeth on the belt... Anyway, I just left those on there as I figured it would be better to have two teeth together then 2 flat spots together. I'll let you know if this takes me to the TQ spot this weekend or not.

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Old 12-30-2003, 02:46 AM   #8222
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Oh yeah, you all have to hear this story... Okay, I've been racing for about a year now... And it's taken me this whole time to really learn the Losi inside and out and what changes affect what. I just really got this thing dialed, thanks to a couple of friends and the XXX-Main TC book... I've always had a loose tail on the car off-power entering corners and I could never seem to figure it out... I changed the front pivot block and set the front to a high-roll center... Took it to the track and that THING WAS SO HOOKED UP! It was tough to really even break it loose! Okay, so I was driving and really getting my lines down well, then WHAMO, it traction-rolled! I was so proud! It reminded me of the first arm-bar I got in Jiu-Jitsu class... Ahhh, To have so much traction it became a problem. Now that's when your car is STUCK!



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Old 12-30-2003, 11:07 AM   #8223
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is there any other place to buy the xxx-main book, or just on there site? My lhs could order this right?
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Old 12-30-2003, 11:11 AM   #8224
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Stormer Hobbies has them on their site.
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Old 12-30-2003, 11:16 AM   #8225
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Thank you
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Old 12-30-2003, 11:24 AM   #8226
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Quote:
Originally posted by JitsuGuy
Okay, 30 minutes later and I'm all done. At the end I had 2 teeth together but they were the last 2... I checked and didn't accidentally cut 2 off together, so it's just the number of teeth on the belt... Anyway, I just left those on there as I figured it would be better to have two teeth together then 2 flat spots together. I'll let you know if this takes me to the TQ spot this weekend or not.

J
LOL, are you sure? I ended up with a perfect belt. Did you cut two off in a row?

www.kthobbies.com for the XXXMain book.
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Old 12-30-2003, 12:06 PM   #8227
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Yeah I had a perfect belt too.....hummm
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Old 12-30-2003, 12:07 PM   #8228
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me too...just a slow car????
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Old 12-30-2003, 12:42 PM   #8229
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Oh crap, c'mon guys, don't tell me that!
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Old 12-30-2003, 01:37 PM   #8230
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Its a 200 tooth belt so there couldn't be two next to each other.
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Old 12-30-2003, 03:28 PM   #8231
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A couple of pages back I noticed that someone said that length of the wire does not matter. I think they misunderstood some people. Being that I worked for a company that builds high end computer boards, and since I was repairing and debugging the prototypes, I can give a little more insight on this.

The length of the wire does matter in the fact that the longer the wire, the more voltage drop you have because of the resistance of the wire itself. That is also why your ESCs use the bigger wire. It allows freer flowing of current to the motor, etc. Too small thickness of wire and you would be "choking off" the power you have. Bad solder joints (too much solder flux or gloppy solder "cold solder joint") will do the same thing. It increases the internal resistance of the contact, thus robbing you of power.

It may say tech rookie, but I know my electronics.
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Old 12-30-2003, 03:55 PM   #8232
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Amen to that.

The more winds in your motor's armature, the more resistance you have, and the slower you'll go. Adding wire or any other resistance anywhere else is analogous to adding more winds to your armature.

There's a lot more to it than that, but that's a simple model that proves the point.

For more, I hear there's a great article on it in the new issue of XRC...
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Old 12-30-2003, 03:58 PM   #8233
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I think what they meant is that it dosent matter WHICH wire is longer. The Pos or Neg. One has to be longer on the XXXS and he was wondering if it made a diff to which one was made longer. Most people with any electrical knowledge know that shorter larger gauge wire is better.
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Old 12-30-2003, 06:34 PM   #8234
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Quote:
Originally posted by wcoyote
The length of the wire does matter in the fact that the longer the wire, the more voltage drop you have because of the resistance of the wire itself.
While that's true, with the gauge of wire used in RC and the average lengths encountered, the resistance of the wire is swamped by both the ESC inefficiency and armature resistance, as well as being practically nonexistant in terms of total I^2 R losses. We're talking about less than 10V, across a few thousandths of an ohm here. A few inches either way means, quite literally, nothing.

You're right about the soldering tho. I've been smacking people upside the head with that here for a few months now. A bad solder joint will be several orders of magnitude worse in terms of losses than a few inches of 14AWG.

And before someone jumps on me about ESC 'resistance', ESC manufacturers worry about low ESC theoretical FET resistances because of heat, not efficiency. Ever notice how a lot of the new ESCs don't need the big honkin' heatsinks that our Novak T4s did?

-dave
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Old 12-30-2003, 08:30 PM   #8235
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With all this resistance talk, I think I need to clean up my solder connections on my battery packs. My soldering iron isn't that good, I think I need a new one. But then again, I'm not that good of a driver to where I think I'd even notice the difference.

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