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Old 12-20-2003, 10:05 AM   #8071
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Quote:
Originally posted by 1shnot
thanx for the reply..........

I didn't know about the losi pads( sounds funny )
please tell me how that works, and if you have any part #'s even better...

only reason i'm thinking about getting a spool is i'm sick of breaking one-way unit. well i haven't broken one in a long long time, but still it's very expensive to replace. (even tho i can replace only right or left side)


again thanx alot
#3250---- Losi spool pads ---$1.75


Sure beats $30 bucks!!!!


Simply take the front diff apart , remove the diffballs, place the pads on the diff rings, and reassemble the diff tightening the screw down very tight.....
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Old 12-20-2003, 11:43 AM   #8072
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Default Re: Hello!!

Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
I will be an owner of a XXX-S G+ in a few days!! Be patient with my queries, questions and favors. . . .

Basically from numerous, pages of this thread. It will rock box stock. I think the main hop up to do is change to Ti Screws all around. Is this advisable?
Thanks
Lem
It wouldn't hurt plus you won't have to worry about rusting screws. If you are gonna convert to tit screws you might also swap out the steel hinge pins for titanium ones, lunsford and TiR both have their own tit hinge pin sets for around $15(US). You might also want to pick up the blue 128T spur and the other caster blocks as this is the only way to change caster on the car-same goes for rear toe.
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Old 12-20-2003, 05:36 PM   #8073
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me driving the xxx-s around the track...

not too shabby but not pro...
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=19824
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Old 12-20-2003, 09:15 PM   #8074
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o ya, forgot to mention...
today's damage = Front Left inside Hingepin broken and the front picvot block broke....

What pivote block should i replace it with?
I have... 4f/0f and 2r...

let me know (right now looking for more steering and stableness)

EDIT***
Anyone tried to converted their screws to M3s?

Also, will M3 concave washers work with 4-40 flatheads or are there concave washers for 4-40?

let me know

Last edited by Super Steve; 12-20-2003 at 09:28 PM.
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Old 12-20-2003, 09:36 PM   #8075
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steve, 4F is for the front, 2R is for the rear. The 4F means 4 degrees kick-up with the stock roll center blocks and mounting the block in the stock location on the bulkhead. The 2R mean 2 degrees of rear anti-squat with the stock center blocks and locations as mentioned earlier.
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Old 12-20-2003, 10:02 PM   #8076
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Default XXXS+ Binding in turns with Spool

My XXXS+ is binding when steering left or right with the spool in it. It doesn't do this with the one-way in it. Any suggestions why this might be happening? I like driving with the spool but this loud chattering bind is slowing me down in the turns. I have yet to run the one-way, and I don't do much braking when running this class. What effect/handling will the one -way give? Will it be anything like the Spool?
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Old 12-20-2003, 10:12 PM   #8077
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I thought some people run the 2R block in the front?

Also, I also find my front binding some place when I crank the turning...

I have aluminum CVD bones and diff....

do i have to turn down the servo travel?

Kinda sucks because i have hard enough time turning it when the knuckle almost touches the c-hub...

also, can anyone help me with the washer question?

thanks alot
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Old 12-20-2003, 11:05 PM   #8078
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super steve, I've just got back running a losi an I've yet heard people running the rear block in the front. From what I remember though it seems that it will reduce the inboard toe-out.

The binding is normal.

It won't hurt to reduce your travel.

Washer question? Washer on the carrier? If this is what you are asking IMO it is there to help reduce wheel bounce from left and right when turning the wheels at those extreme angles.
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Old 12-21-2003, 08:20 AM   #8079
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Hello proudwinner,

In Europe we use the 0R or the 2R in the front all of the time!
See my set-up earlier in this thread....
It gives you more steering and more corner speed!
You will need to dremmel down your CVD's though, also, I use 2mm Off-Set washer on the hexes to widen the car back to normal. Placing the front arm all the way back = midle with the standard front blocks.

Try it, I'll bet you will like it!!!

Cheers,
Eirik Andreassen
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Old 12-21-2003, 08:52 AM   #8080
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Default ESC

I'll be using a Quantum. Is it standard to place the ESC behind the motor? Is this the ideal position? Thanks! - Lem
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Old 12-21-2003, 10:44 AM   #8081
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lem 2, yes that is the ideal and standard position


washer question:
Anyone tried to converted their screws to M3s?

Also, will M3 concave washers work with 4-40 flatheads or are there concave washers for 4-40?

CVD:
Where do you dremel it?
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Old 12-21-2003, 11:36 AM   #8082
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Super Steve,

You need to dremmel down the "Ball" at the end of the cvd all the way down to the pin. If you dont do that the cvd will hit the one way/diff...

I have never tried to use M3 screws on my car because there is no reason for it. Also, because the M3's are slightly bigger, they will not fit properly in many places.

Trinity makes some really nice concave washer for 4-40 screws, check out their website.

Eirik
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Old 12-21-2003, 08:47 PM   #8083
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If you dont do that the cvd will hit the one way/diff...
Do you mean when turning or just going striaght?
I have aluminum CVDs all four corners. Should i install steal ones in the front and shave the end to the pin? Will this allow the car to not make tic tic tic noise when turning?

Let me know!
Thanks alot...
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Old 12-21-2003, 09:03 PM   #8084
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does this happen to all xxx-s's, cuz mine does it when it's on the stamd, but not on the track, or i can't hear it on the track.
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Old 12-21-2003, 09:04 PM   #8085
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maybe your servo isn't strong enough?
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