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Old 12-16-2003, 01:02 AM   #8041
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Default Re: Re: Aluminum Screws

Quote:
Originally posted by highwayman
... if you're looking for some "cool" factor, try out the stainless steel screws... or better yet, titanium.

aluminum screws will just keep on stripping...
I only buy aluminum if the strength is okay for the application but the best is titanium and not because they are just titanium and they look cool but because they will not oxidize with rust like regular carbon steel and then that they are lighter.
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Old 12-16-2003, 10:30 AM   #8042
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Default Re: Re: Re: Aluminum Screws

Quote:
Originally posted by proudwinner
I only buy aluminum if the strength is okay for the application but the best is titanium and not because they are just titanium and they look cool but because they will not oxidize with rust like regular carbon steel and then that they are lighter.
The only downside is that titanium is a lot more brittle than steel, so if you hit it hard enough, it will break instead of bend like steel would. The nice part is it's so much stronger, that rarely happens.

-dave
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Old 12-16-2003, 11:49 PM   #8043
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H8W8IN, I asked Scotty tonight and he does not sell it on the web. I'll talk to Marty (MPH Himself) tomorrow, see if he knows of anyone that sells it on the web. Otherwise, call trackside and see if they'll do a phone order for you.

Josh, glad to meet you tonight. Again, have any questions let me know. With the setup I showed you tonight I qualified 4th and finished 3rd behind Weir and Lutz. Fell back to 5th with 2 to go and worked my way back. That setup just works...
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Old 12-17-2003, 07:21 PM   #8044
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HeY hEy!!!



Gary same here nice to meet you and congrats to you and how well you did, i'd like to race against ya then sometime soon. All I have to do is prolly get the one-way you said to go w/ it. and the silver springs in rear. I'm just wondering how the spring order and color goes for Losi springs??? And thanx again for helping me out and also the decals. I'll be down this Sun. to race erubber for first time in like about 2 months now and w/ new car so i'm just looking forward to be qualifying and finishing and not breaking anything. C-ya there if you can make it down then.
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Old 12-17-2003, 08:23 PM   #8045
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Josh R: here are the colors and spring rate for the losi springs from softest to stiffest.

white - 7.6 lbs
orange - 8.6 lbs
yellow - 9.6 lbs
pink - 10.6 lbs
red - 11.6 lbs
silver - 12.6 lbs*
blue - 14.6 lbs
green - 17.5 lbs
purple - 20 lbs*
black - 25 lbs
*springs included in kit

hope this helps.
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Old 12-17-2003, 08:37 PM   #8046
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HeY hEy!!!


ROBORAT thanx alot man this will help me out now also incase if i try something now.
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Old 12-17-2003, 09:22 PM   #8047
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Might give rubber one last shot on Tueday. It really messed up my driving in foam. The rubber car was way hurting. Made some changes to the car and it feels better now. Have some more up my sleeve yet. Hope it isn't as rushed as last night though. I guess the result wasn't that bad for not running rubber since the last Novak Race.
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Old 12-18-2003, 12:52 AM   #8048
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No Brian, qualifying and finishing second to Weir isn't bad, you were right there.

So I'm cleaning my car tonight. I take all the bearings out...working on the left rear and..Whoa, it's split down the middle. Ok, I had an extra arm, but I was impressed it held together. So I get to the right front....and the Caster Block is tweaked back and towards the centerline of the chassis...Oh, and I had 2 frozen bearings too. I don't feel too bad about Tuesday now
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Old 12-18-2003, 10:33 AM   #8049
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Default Small tight Carpet Track setups

Well I am getting ready for my first race with my XXX-S.

The nearby carpeted track is on the small side for 1/10.
I watched a race last week, they set the road course up with a lot of turns, in my opinion too many turns, for the space they had. Two of the turns were only about 2 feet wide, thus there was a lot of bumping and crashing. (even with only 3 cars running, it was rare to see a car go 3 laps without hitting a barrier or another car.) It reminded me more of 'Bumper' cars than a real toring car race.

The touring cars at this track run foam tires and stock motors.

Given the tightness of this track, I was thinking of going for lots of low end torque and thus going with the 17 tooth pinion gear off a 9t motor. Is this too extreme?

I am a real novice driver so I will probably be doing a lot of stopping and starting. I thought being able to accelrate fast is more important than top speed.
------------------------------------

Second, question. Given the fact that my driving ability is what is holding me back and the last ounce of speed is not that important, is the benifit of an expensive battery pack really going to be that noticeable over say a 1500mah battery.

----------------------------
Some one told me ROAR requires 4 foot min track width over entire course, would it be bad etiquette for me to request the track conform to this.(particualrly being a novice) Is it generally assumed that ROAR rules are complied with when possible?
---------------------------------------

Finally, I know its un-common for touring cars to compete on oval tracks;but, in general, What adjustments would you make to a touring car to run it on an oval course, assuming it will be competing with other 1/10 touring cars?


Any other suggestions you might have?

Thanks in advance for
any other advice.
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Old 12-18-2003, 11:37 AM   #8050
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Quote:
Given the tightness of this track, I was thinking of going for lots of low end torque and thus going with the 17 tooth pinion gear off a 9t motor. Is this too extreme?
Given the tightness of the track, I would run a P2k or a P2k2. What are you doing with a 9T anyways?

Quote:
is the benifit of an expensive battery pack really going to be that noticeable over say a 1500mah battery.
Yes. The biggest thing is that you can run the 3000 or 3300 more then once a day. Plus, when you are ready to move up, you'll be a step in the right direction with your equipment.


Quote:
ROAR requires 4 foot min track width over entire course
I'm not a member, but I believe it's actually 8 feet.

Quote:
What adjustments would you make to a touring car to run it on an oval course
Firstly, I'd want a chassis that placed the cells along the left side instead of the right. Even a saddle pack is better then on the right. Secondly try to make the drivetrain as free as possible. With Oval, many times you run opposite camber and caster settings from left front to right front. I would talk to some of the local oval pan car shot shoes and try to copy the front end geometry on a sedan.

Hope this helps
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Old 12-18-2003, 02:12 PM   #8051
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Post Brian L

what are you running set-up wise for rubber??
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Old 12-18-2003, 02:59 PM   #8052
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Default clarify

thanks for info,
I was curious about 1/10 touring car oval but it is not likley that either track nearby will be have such a class.

my main iterest is turning in some halfway respectaable laps on this small carpet course.

The 9t motor cam with car when I bought it used, I replaced with P2kp pro. the track runs foam tires only.

I was wondering about taking the 17 tooth pinion off the 9t and puting it on the stock motor for lots of low end torque acceleration.

On the battery, I am just wondering how much difference it will make on a 5 minute race at my low skill level.
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Old 12-18-2003, 03:07 PM   #8053
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With a 1500mah pack, you're really going to be pushing it as far as making a 5 minute heat, especially if you take a couple of warm-up laps... I just don't think it'll make it. 2400mah packs the lowest I'd go, plus you can get 2400 packs now for cheap since NiMh came out.

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Old 12-18-2003, 06:12 PM   #8054
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The result wasn't bad Gary. My car wasn't anywhere close to what it should be and that was why I was disapointed. It should be way better if I run again. I was hoping for the same layout as I think I can pick up a lot with a set-up change and motor swap. Won't even guess if the race packs would come out.

Preston- I would try Gary's set-up that he ran. I only saw a little bit of one round, but it looked pretty good. Josh R. should have it. My car wasn't even in the ballpark. Foams is another story though. Have some things up my sleeve for that car also. Hopefully I will have something next week. Rubber car is going to be close to Paul's set-up from the Novak race with some minor tweeks. Will let you know if I find anything good. I only ran about 15 packs on this car last year in rubber and don't have any notes from it. My main focus is on foam though. Only changed this car to rubber to see if I could run another class since you can't run stock and mod foam at the Novak.
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Old 12-18-2003, 09:41 PM   #8055
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Default Re: Aluminum Screws

Quote:
Originally posted by imjonah
Has anyone had bad luck with those colored anodized aluminum screws. In the process of replacing my steel screws with blue aluminum screws, I have had 2 out of 30 shear off. I was not over tightning either.
Do I just have bad luck or get a bad lot?
Have any of you had simular bad luck with aluminum screws?
imjonah - The only places I use AL screws are on the servo mounts, battery posts, and on the steering rack. Other places are either stressed to often, or are screwed in & out to many times for me to trust them.
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