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Old 12-13-2003, 08:32 PM   #8011
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Default xxx-s parts!

why suspension arm of xxx-s are easy to break even you heat not so hard in the track barrier??
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Old 12-13-2003, 09:18 PM   #8012
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whats your name?... I might have seen you in there... That was like my 2nd home for the week...
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Old 12-13-2003, 10:28 PM   #8013
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LosiFan, I was having the same problems with the tires touching the plastic piece at the end of the shock shaft as well... I adjusted the servo travel and then I added to the dual rates on my radio... The car feels the same as it did but without the grinding on that plastic piece on the shock.

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Old 12-14-2003, 03:00 AM   #8014
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thegame- Im Jarrod Langlois, i usually race at rcmadness in connecticut. who are you maybe i would regonize your name.
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Old 12-14-2003, 07:58 AM   #8015
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spaz456 - I'm Brandon Hess.. Are you going to be racing the Januray Jam? Me and Gray are going to make the trip up there..
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Old 12-14-2003, 10:33 AM   #8016
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Default Re: xxx-s parts!

Quote:
Originally posted by babytoy101
why suspension arm of xxx-s are easy to break even you heat not so hard in the track barrier??
It depends on the angle of the hit. I'm a trrible driver, and crash on a regular basis, and the only time I reliably killed a front or rear arm was when a tire caught the edge of the barrier. Side sliding hits and front impacts are usually survivable, but when the track reaches out and grabs your wheel, the arm will break. It's a safety feature. If the arms were aluminium, the hubs would break instead and you'd damage a larger quantity of more expensive parts, possibly including shock shafts and CVDs. Arms are relatively cheap compared to rebuilding the entire corner of your car.

My $0.02.

-dave
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Old 12-14-2003, 10:48 AM   #8017
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Default Re: xxx-s parts!

Quote:
Originally posted by babytoy101
why suspension arm of xxx-s are easy to break even you heat not so hard in the track barrier??
Which car do you have the standard XXX-S or the G+..... use Graphite arms, they are far more durable.....
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Old 12-14-2003, 01:32 PM   #8018
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i run the graphite one and i have gotten radio hits that send my car into the support beam and my car survied for the most part but over all my cars been tosted around when im racing against poor drivers or drivers that feel like there faster but not and end up taking hard hits into my car. but with my tc3 that another story.....
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Old 12-14-2003, 04:12 PM   #8019
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Can anybody point me to a setup for rubber tires on a really low-traction carpet track?

A new track opened near here that I will probably race at once in a while, I pulled out one of my old XXX-S cars to set up for rubber (we're racing mainly foam now).

I worked with the setup as much as I could on the first day but it still has a way to go. I'd be interested to see what anyone else has arrived at.

Thanks!
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Old 12-14-2003, 04:24 PM   #8020
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Hi futureal

I recently raced on a really low traction carpet track with my g+.
i Started off with box set up as i didnt have a clue were to start.
It felt good but it understeered heaps, so i put blue springs up front, i also ran 2 deg camber insteed of 1. The car felt pretty nice, it was was to drive. I used take off 22's and i started off with a trinity strutus but ened up using the losi alfa as its more stable. I also used about 5mm of droop all round, seemed to make the car a bit better.

Hope this helps

Btw Todd Hodge has a set up on the losi site for carpet, looks pretty good.
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Old 12-14-2003, 04:27 PM   #8021
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The setups on Losi's site are all for higher-bite carpet tracks. To give you an idea of how loose this was, I was running Take Off 22s and was drifting through the corners to maintain speed. I let the rear tires soak in TQ Mod for about 10 minutes before each heat, but the car was still so loose it could barely get around the track.
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Old 12-14-2003, 04:54 PM   #8022
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try this set up. I won the first two or three carpet races this year with it. It's sort of soft but it may help you out some.

front
pistons 56
oil 40wt
spring blue
#1 on tower
#2 camber link
4 degree caster blocks
losi mid roll center block with 2f pivot block
oneway
5mm ride height
3mm droop
sway bar (played with 2nd & 3rd thickest)


rear
piston 56
oil 40wt
spring pink
#2 on tower
#1B camber link location
outside hole on rear arm
2 degree toe in
low roll center 0R pivot block
5mm ride height
4mm droop
batteries forward
dodge stratus 2.0
sorex 28's with hpi reds on front and rear but you might want to try 24's in the rear if your traction issues are that bad.

I hope this helps you out some. It worked killer for me.
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Old 12-14-2003, 05:33 PM   #8023
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Ditch the TQ8 and try some MPH Products T-Rex. Best stuff I've ever used.

Shane, you using the standard XXX-S or the G+?
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Old 12-14-2003, 10:08 PM   #8024
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STLNLST: Thanks for the input. That is actually very, very close to what I ended the day at. I had the rear shocks laid down all the way and was running those Take Off tires. Also high roll in the front (the original high roll). I figured I would play around with some Sorex, I've always had better luck with those around here.

Is that 2* of toe total in the rear (i.e. 0 degree carriers)? I was thinking of increasing the rear toe but didn't have any spare blocks on me at the time.

Gary: The TQ stuff is all that's available here in Madison, that and Paragon, which is outlawed where we're racing. I don't know how much the sauce would affect it though; all it's really doing is softening up the tire before the race, once the tires get a little heat in them (and the sauce scrubs off) I think it's all pretty much the same.

Also, that particular car is a hybrid of the original and G+ XXX-S. All the pieces are graphite, but no offset rear hubs and the old front-end. Also some other custom mods but nothing that would change the geometry.
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Old 12-14-2003, 10:20 PM   #8025
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Shane, trust me on this one. Scotty sells the stuff, it works well into a run.

Are you running the battery forward or back? I had some problems with my car wanting to unload under power with a brushless. Going to the 1/2 degree rear hubs helped a lot.
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