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Old 11-23-2003, 01:15 PM   #7846
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If you have a small amount of droop the car will react quicker because the weight transfer side to side will be shortened. Are you running associated pistons (#2 and #3). You could also move the front arms forward (putting all the spacers behind the arm or more towards the center of the car). But I think if you put 60 wt. oil in the front that would help slow down the initial weight transfer.
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Old 11-23-2003, 02:45 PM   #7847
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i was looking over my setup, and noticed that i was still using 70 weight shock oil, would this be okay, me being i like alot of steering, and on the losser side. Or should i go down to 60 weight.
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Old 11-23-2003, 07:06 PM   #7848
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ok guys...our new on-road indoor carpet track just did their first race yesterday (saturday)....good thing is its nice and smooth...bad thing is it ate all my weel hub bearings...now i ned to replace all 8 bearings on the wheel...question is..is it safe to leave bearings without the sheild and run it on carpet or just leave the sheild on...this must be the worse case that ever happened to my xxx-s g+...
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Old 11-23-2003, 07:56 PM   #7849
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ok guys i have been to the races got some setup advice and applied it to the car

first question why does the front suspension always feel softer than the rear i run the same springs front and rear and red pistons in front and black in the rear 55wt oil in front and rear but the front feels noticably softer is it suspension geometry or is it something i did wrong?

second question is about the arm spacing why does everyone i talk to recommend running the arms spaced forward? wouldnt that put the weight further away from the front arms and closer to the rear arms?

also i put the spacer .060 in the front shock and now im only able to get 4mm ride height with 59mm tires is that normal?
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Old 11-23-2003, 08:08 PM   #7850
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You're right about the suspension geometry. The fronts are closer together and in general angled more in most setups. That will make them feel a little softer. As for the .060 spacer in the front, you'll probably want to go with less than that running foams. I don't run foams so I'm not totally sure but I have .060 in all fours and it's perfect.
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Old 11-23-2003, 08:16 PM   #7851
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whats better for carpet, 70 weight, or 60, i like to have very quick steering, and tend to be on the loose side, does the weights have to do with that?
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Old 11-23-2003, 08:18 PM   #7852
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Los1Fan, I tend to take off just 1 shield and leave the other one on. I then put the exposed side to the center of whatever I am putting them in. This way there is still some protection there. I haven't had a problem yet, knock on wood.
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Old 11-23-2003, 08:29 PM   #7853
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pro3racer: softer oil should result in more steering and a quicker front end at lower speeds, just make sure the car does not layover too much on you.
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Old 11-23-2003, 08:58 PM   #7854
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you mean if it's too soft, it'll roll, i really should get those purples first, haha.
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Old 11-23-2003, 09:02 PM   #7855
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i am getting very frustrated here. Me and my non-thread shocks. I can't get my stupid tweek right. I try to equalize the droop screws, then adjust the preload, then the front works, then the back doesn't. I take the screws out(like many said to), and the car sits to high, so i lower it with less preload, then the tweek is screw up, so i put the screws in to lower it, and adjust the tweek, its a viscous circle!!!
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Old 11-23-2003, 09:10 PM   #7856
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Set your droop first, then ride height, then try and set the tweek. Setting the tweek is dificult without threaded bodies. after you set your droop, set the ride height, and make sure you're even on both sides. Then put it on the tweek board. The losi is usually nice because you don't end up with a major difference usually left to right on the preload. With them even you should be pretty close. Adjust it what you can but it's kind of a losing battle trying to get the tweek just right w/o threaded bodies. Just get it as close as you can. You should be fine. Try dong this on a TC3 where the preload is always way off.
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Old 11-23-2003, 11:55 PM   #7857
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Los1Fan, I just had the same problem as you did a few weeks ago. New carpet and thrashed bearings. Unlucky for me I checked my bearings after a big two day race and they were full of carpet fuzz. I removed both sides of the bearing shields, cleaned them thoroughly and hadn't had a problem since. They're spinning like they were brand new. I would try to keep a closer look on them from time to time since the shields are gone. Other than that they'll be o.k.
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Old 11-24-2003, 03:15 AM   #7858
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Quote:
Originally posted by 429racer
If you have a small amount of droop the car will react quicker because the weight transfer side to side will be shortened. Are you running associated pistons (#2 and #3). You could also move the front arms forward (putting all the spacers behind the arm or more towards the center of the car). But I think if you put 60 wt. oil in the front that would help slow down the initial weight transfer.

shock piston is 56... the #2 and #3 pertains to the Position or holes on the shock tower.

hmmm... here's the thing... i have about 1 to 1.5mm of effective droop in front and 0 in the rear.... so how does that translate in terms of weight transfer?
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Old 11-24-2003, 05:36 AM   #7859
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I always start with a 2mm of rideheight to lifting the tires off the ground effective droop. With zero droop (ifyour cars ride height was basically set using droop screws in which alot of people make the mistake in doing) in the back you get a more abrupt weight change back to front. Having some droop makes the car more forgiving.
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Old 11-24-2003, 09:43 AM   #7860
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i set my droop first and i dont use the droop screws.
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