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Old 10-15-2001, 06:29 PM   #721
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Not too sure about that. I think the brown was a little heavier maybe.

I had assumed that grease went away with the LRM tranny.

I guess not.
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Old 10-15-2001, 06:31 PM   #722
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use the brown for sure on the diffs. it is thicker and will hold better in the diffs.
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Old 10-15-2001, 07:26 PM   #723
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Well, the XXX-S really did well for me this weekend. I raced stock at Englistown, NJ Saturday night, qualified 4th and finished 3rd in the A, I think a better motor would have helped me, I was running an old Paradox handout stocker that just wasn't pulling like it needed to.

Sunday I went up to Enfield, CT for RC Madness' Fall Classic. I ran my Reedy Ti-based 9 double in mod, qualifying 3rd in the A. The weather was a bit ovecast and foggy, with a light mist in the air for about an hour before the start of the A main. We gridded up on a slightly damp and slippery track, and on the start it was Associated driver Mike Dumas in the lead with me in second. I dogged him for several laps until he clipped a board allowing me by for the lead, then I somehow managed to gradually extend the lead to almost half a lap by the end. No one was more surprised than me.

Thanks to B&T for the great SMH packs and Mighty Motors for the power.

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Old 10-16-2001, 10:04 AM   #724
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kind of a dumb question but I was looking at some of the set-up sheets and I see that some racers have 0deg for their toe-in and I was wondering if they somehow modified the rear block so that the toe-in in the rear equaled 0deg or are they using the stock rear block that has 0deg of toe-in but the stock kit has 2deg automatically. I was wondering this because Losi on makes 0,1/2, and 1 degree rear blocks. So the rear will always have 2,2 1/2, and 3 degree of toe-in at all times. I guess maybe on their setup sheets they tell you the actual block they used instead of the total amount of toe-in. Also the Pivot-blocks are the same thing as Kick-up in the front and anti-squat in the rear correct?

One last question. IF I use the 4F piviot block up front doesn't that give me 4deg of Caster? so then I would use the stock 0deg Caster block. Or I use the 0F piviot block and then use the 4deg caster block for the same setting...or do these settings each do different things?

Thanks

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Old 10-16-2001, 10:26 AM   #725
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I trued up a set of foams last night for the beginning of our indoor season and I'm finding they are hitting the front shocks when the steering gets close to full lock. I added some washers on the axle between the hex and the wheel to space the wheel out but they are still hitting. Anyone else with this problem? Are you simply narrowing the inside of the wheel 1 or 2 mm? I am running TRC tires if that helps. I don't know if Jaco's have the same problem

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

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Old 10-16-2001, 10:31 AM   #726
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I have had no problems with the Jaco Tires.
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Old 10-16-2001, 10:48 AM   #727
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BOBBY Z:

I use TRC's and Jaco's and the solution is very simple:

Instead of the Losi XXX-S wheel hex hubs use TC3 wheel hex hubs. You will notice they are about 1mm wider each. This small trick will eliminate your need for a washer in between the wheel and the hex. The wheel will be much more secure on a full sized TC3 hex than a narrower hex and washer. Also try Trinity's low profile wheel nuts. They grab more of the axle for a more secure hold.

Also you can turn down the dual rate or limit your steering travel. I have my M8 on 80% dual rate for carpet. Hope this helps.
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Old 10-16-2001, 01:29 PM   #728
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Mike-

Increasing the amount of kickup will add caster. More kickup will make the front of the car react much like a softer spring would. More kickup is great for bumpy tracks, of if you are looking for a little less steering on a high-bite surface. Generally more caster will make the car have more initial steering, and less exit steering. Less caster has the opposite effects.

Kickup and caster go hand in hand, but are two separate adjustments.

It is so hard to make general blanket statements about what a certain adjustment will, or won't do to you car. There is a happy middle ground where a chassis works the best. To make a statement like, softer = more traction, or more caster = more steering; is NOT always the case.

As for your question about the rear toe, I have not seen a setup sheet that indicates 0deg of rear toe.... The kit is 2 degrees per side. You could reduce that to 1deg per side by putting the 1 deg hubs on backwards......The toe can only be adjusted with the hub carries......the "pivot supports" on the Losi setup sheet refers to the blocks that you use to adjust A/S and K/U(OF,2F,2R, etc).
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Old 10-16-2001, 01:41 PM   #729
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Paul Lemieux Setup sheet on the Losi Website for Trackside WI has 0deg toe in in the rear. I think it is a carpet setup with rubber tires.... Ron Rossetti Parking Lot track has 0deg Toe-In in the rear also. That is why I was asking the question becuase I was going to set my car up that way for this weekend if possible. Thanks for the reply though.
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Old 10-16-2001, 02:01 PM   #730
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That is a typo for Rons setup. It is 2degrees.
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Old 10-16-2001, 08:49 PM   #731
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Quote:
Originally posted by ORANGE DOG
NO your eyes arent playing tricks on you. The diff screw should be identical like the first one you assembled. I suggest you give Losi a call to tell them what you had discovered with the screw. They more than likely would replace it for you. If you cant wait for Losi to replace it you can always buy the diff screw separately in the mean while.
oh no OD found this place.

Good to see you here OD.

I just got my XXX-s on Monday.

OD are you runing the GP race on Sat night the 27?
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Old 10-16-2001, 08:53 PM   #732
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The "0" degree is in reference to the hub used, the standard hub is "0" degrees, but there is toe-in in the block. My set-up uses the standard parts, hubs and inside block
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Old 10-16-2001, 09:21 PM   #733
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Taz - Yup I'll be running at the GP race. More than likely will be running MOD but if you guys twist my arm enough I might run stock as well.
You just couldn't wait any longer to get you hands on a LOSI Huh? You'll find the kit really easy to build. And when youre ready to run it you'll find out how easy it is to drive. If you need help with it just ask.
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Old 10-16-2001, 09:31 PM   #734
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Yea wait to i start to see the parts on the wall at jakes. I saw them on monday and got the car that nigth.

I hope we can have the fast ten race for the on-road guy. Would love to see our Mod pan car just eat alive the TC.
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Old 10-16-2001, 09:35 PM   #735
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MDawson - Hey I was wondering where you race at? I am planning on making a trip down to southern cali this weekend and was wanting to know where to race at other than SO-CAL. dont get me wrong, I'm definately going to check out SO-CAL since I've never been there since they moved to Huntington Beach. Thanks in advance.
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