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Old 10-01-2003, 08:04 PM   #7201
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Is pengiun doing them? I might be intersted in one. How much would it cost?
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Old 10-01-2003, 08:08 PM   #7202
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Penguin didn't seem too interested in doing it, and it wouldn't be cost effective unless a bunch of us went in on it.

Jon Kerr told me about a local guy with a machine shop that has done work for him in the past, so I'm gonna give him a shot once I get a hold of him and see what he can do
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Old 10-01-2003, 08:10 PM   #7203
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I'm about to venture into the unknown and try my hand at racing a xxx-s, is the kit setup a fairly decent suggestion for starting out?

Having not driven the xxx-s before, i'm yet to discover what it likes and dislikes regarding sertup.
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Old 10-01-2003, 09:14 PM   #7204
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Quote:
Originally posted by black-knight
I'm about to venture into the unknown and try my hand at racing a xxx-s, is the kit setup a fairly decent suggestion for starting out?

Having not driven the xxx-s before, i'm yet to discover what it likes and dislikes regarding sertup.
for setup, just get one off the losi website for what ever surface your going to race on. the 2 ive tryed worked perfect for the racing ive done. i didnt even try the kit setup, but it might work?
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Old 10-01-2003, 09:22 PM   #7205
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The kit setup is very general. IMO it's drivable on most tracks but not really fast. I didn't have to make a whole lot of major changes but a lot of minor tweaks were needed to get it fast.
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Old 10-02-2003, 12:09 AM   #7206
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Quote:
Originally posted by black-knight
I'm about to venture into the unknown and try my hand at racing a xxx-s, is the kit setup a fairly decent suggestion for starting out?

Having not driven the xxx-s before, i'm yet to discover what it likes and dislikes regarding sertup.

The G+ stock set-up has a bit more rear rotation to my liking, i changed to the standard rear hubs with 1 degree toe.

The springs are ok, but now im using green fronts and red rears, (pretty much Todd Hodge's socal set-up, with a few variations), also the car comes with 30wt oil... but that's pretty much your call, depending on how you want the car to react.
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Old 10-02-2003, 10:47 AM   #7207
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In the near future a company called Titanium Racing Online. Is releasing some titanium out drives for XXX-S. They also have titanium cvds now for sale. I can't wait to get my hands on them..
You can go to www.titaniumracing.com

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Old 10-02-2003, 11:15 AM   #7208
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I am using the TiRacing hinge pins, and they seem to be a perfect fit, but I'm kinda interested in their ball studs, anyone have experience with them at all?
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Old 10-02-2003, 11:18 AM   #7209
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Also, on their screw set for the XXX-S, all measurements are in metric, how do the sizes compare?
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Old 10-02-2003, 11:52 AM   #7210
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
Also, on their screw set for the XXX-S, all measurements are in metric, how do the sizes compare?
They're gonna be close, but a little bit off.

#4 screws in the US are roughly M3 sized, but the pitch and shaft sizes are just different enough that you'd need to buy a new chassis and rethread it to be sure things would hold properly. Threading M3 stuff into #4 holes is a great way to weaken your car.

-dave
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Old 10-02-2003, 11:58 AM   #7211
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Actually the threads are 4-40, but the lengths are measured in metric...
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Old 10-02-2003, 12:23 PM   #7212
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
Actually the threads are 4-40, but the lengths are measured in metric...

Ahh...well then, just use the handy dandy 25.4mm = 1in conversion and you're all set. All of the holes should be plenty deep to allow the residual difference in screw lengths.

-dave
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Old 10-02-2003, 12:40 PM   #7213
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Alright, I'm sure the depth of the screw would be just about the same as stock, just wanted to check and make sure. I know Eric R has some on his XXXS, so I'm waiting to hear his imput on them
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Old 10-02-2003, 03:20 PM   #7214
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Or you could just buy Lunsford TI srews and ball studs, also the Lunsford quick tunes for the shocks are a great part.

Chad
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Old 10-02-2003, 03:25 PM   #7215
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Randman-i use the ballstuds your talking about and i like them very much. the only thing you have to do is ream the bushing out that goes through the top of the front castor blocks very slightly. then your good to go!
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