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Old 07-07-2003, 11:46 AM   #6571
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I would just say "second from smallest" or something like that any one else who reads can understand.
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Old 07-07-2003, 11:49 AM   #6572
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Quote:
Originally posted by ROBORAT
highwayman: wow, thanks! binobola mo pa ako sa post mo ha! hehehe ... alam mo naman i read this thread. im sure next time you'll be ahead of me. by the way, you guys playing this wednesday? got a hot new set-up for the rockwell track which i worked out last saturday. the car is really hooked now and even more consistent than before. it was really just fine tuning but it made a big difference in terms of handling. cant wait to race it. wish i had this set up in last week's race! i would have defenitly been faster.


give credit where credit is due!

i still have a long way to go before i finish ahead of you...
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Old 07-07-2003, 12:42 PM   #6573
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Default Re: Re: spur adapter

Quote:
Originally posted by Pembalap
I used the spur adapter, so that I am able to use a regular spur gear. By using this adapter, I am able to tune the gear ratio more closely.

The downside:
Since the profile of the tooth is sligthly differrent to the original pulley, the belt skips a lot under braking.

A.W
personally, i don't think the advantages of the spur adapter outweighs the disadavnatges, like the belt skipping...
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Old 07-07-2003, 02:29 PM   #6574
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sydewynder
So Dan when are you going to come and race with us????
In 2-3 weeks??




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Old 07-07-2003, 03:05 PM   #6575
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dan
In 2-3 weeks??




Summer will be over by then. You know DC weather
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Old 07-07-2003, 05:14 PM   #6576
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I tried the spur gear adapter (trinity) And for me the problems with the mesh and the weight was not worth it,I thought it was BS that I paid what I paid for this part and not have the mesh right..only Trinity would keep it on the market.The only reason why I bought one was so I could run 64 pitch gears(it took Losi a while to come out with them)Now that Losi has 64 pitch gears..why would you want to use a part that was not made right,Good thing trinity does not make plane parts..
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Old 07-07-2003, 09:07 PM   #6577
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Quote:
Originally posted by Smartazz07
I would just say "second from smallest" or something like that any one else who reads can understand.
Brandon
there's an editable set-up sheet in the losi board that i wish to make use of. unfortunatley, the filed allocated for the sway bar thickness does not accept alpha text, only numeric.

highwayman: its only a matter of time. besides, i think i was just lucky that time out. hopefully with my new set-up i can rely a bit less little less on luck. i really dint feel confident with the way my car was handling at the race. i was just fortunate there were a lot of pile ups and errors made by the others i guess. see u tomorrow!
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Old 07-07-2003, 09:28 PM   #6578
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The problem I have with the Trinity adapter is the bearing hole isn't machined concentric to the gear so the teeth part wobbles up and down. Makes setting the belt tension a PIA.

XXXkat

You the one in the the Central Valley?

If so, maybe we should ask Matt next time at Stockton. "Wut up wid dat?"
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Old 07-07-2003, 10:46 PM   #6579
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I think I must be the only one who got a good adapter.
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Old 07-07-2003, 10:52 PM   #6580
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Yea,in the central valley..Man has it been hot or what..
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Old 07-07-2003, 11:38 PM   #6581
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i got the sway bar measurements from todd hodge. if anyone is interested, they're 0.050", 0.060", 0.070" and 0.080".

ned911: seem to be having trouble uploading a set up sheet in your site. keep getting errors.
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Last edited by ROBORAT; 07-08-2003 at 12:11 AM.
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Old 07-07-2003, 11:43 PM   #6582
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Me too. I just tried one and it didn't go through. I'll put it up when you get it fixed.
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Old 07-08-2003, 12:15 AM   #6583
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I agree I live in modesto! its toooooo hot
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Old 07-08-2003, 08:54 AM   #6584
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highwayman- you mentioned something about slop in the front and rear end of your car? i assume you mean between the arms and hinge pin mounts? or maybe arms and hubs/caster blocks? in general, wear of this type is common with all sedans, especially if you race modified on really high bite surfaces like carpet. however, a few things can be done to adjust for this wear. anytime i change anything in the front or rear (diff covers, kick or squat) that would move the orientation of the inner hinge pins, i always readjust the main block. this is done by loosening (2-3 turns) the screws on the pivot block mounts, then the screws on the main block. remove any preload from the arms (shocks, sway bars, etc.). then retighten the main block (which will reset the orientation of the inner hinge pins) and retighten the pivot block mounts. the arms should move freely up and down, with no binding. if they do bind, even slightly, then back out the screws on the main block 1/4 of a turn at a time until the arms are free without excessive play. do not loosen the screws on the pivot blocks. if the slop is developing on the caster blocks or hubs, they can be shimmed, but it is best to replace them if you can. be sure to trim any flashing off of the new parts to prevent any binding.
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Old 07-08-2003, 09:02 AM   #6585
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highwayman- you also asked about pistons, hole sizes and bits? with the losi pistons, the larger the number, the smaller the hole. losi pistons are all color coded: white-#60, black-#57, red- #56, orange-#55, blue-#54. if you see drilled or standard pistons specified on set up sheets if indicates whether or not the molded holes have been changed at all. for example, i start with #60 pistons for everything and drill the hole i need with the appropriate bit. the molded holes can vary slightly and drilling eliminated this. occassionally, i will drill the holes with two bits, as ned911 mentioned, for VERY fine tuning; a piston listed as 5-5-6 would be a piston with two #55 holes and one #56 hole, which would theoretically place in the piston in between a standard 56 and 55. the new losi shock tool is a great asset when it comes to doing some bench tuning and testing with things like this.
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