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Old 10-05-2001, 09:51 AM
  #631  
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Guys, I've heard that the Associated TC3 graphite parts are a little stronger than the stock parts meaning that they can take a stronger hit without breaking. Is this also true for Losi graphite parts?
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Old 10-05-2001, 10:00 AM
  #632  
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I have owned a FT TC3, a hopped up Schumacher Axis 2, a Yokomo Special, and now a Team Losi XXX-s. I like something about all the cars or else I would not have bought them. Each car is very competitive and will do well in the hands of a good driver and tuner. I have owned at least two kits from all of those manufacturers before and I was happy with the quality and performance of all of them. And they all have good customer service. They are just a phone call away.

My XXX-S is stock right now and will probably buy some mods for it but that is part of what I like about this hobby. Each person's car is customized and equipped the way the owner likes. For me it is fun to buy mods for the car, even though it is pricey sometimes. At some tracks, the level of competition requires you have high-end everything. In my case, I need to better learn how to tune my stock motors, get high voltage race packs and practice more. It does suck that sometimes we have to spend money to win, but you wouldn't be at a race if you did not want to win. We are all competitive and want to win when we race. Of course having fun is important too, if you aren't having fun, find something else to do with your spare time.

I have been in this hobby for over twelve years and have seen many great companies go out of business. They couldn't follow trends, not enough market or what ever reason are now out of business. Team Losi, Team Associated, etc. all make great kits and you should drive what ever you are comfortable with.

This thread is about XXX-S drivers helping each other out with secrets and tips. We all would like to go faster and improve our lap times. I remember on rctouring that the conversations were more related to racing matters - tuning ,driving, maintenance and much more. Later there and now here, there is petty pissing matches as said earlier. This whole board is to help people. You should be able to come hear and have your questions answered. Unfortunately we have to deal with other matters in between.
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Old 10-05-2001, 11:42 AM
  #633  
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Every car has its own merit. I would agree that the pissing match should end. This thread is for the XXX-S, if you want to flame or discuss the merits of anything other you should back to the Yokomo or AE thread. Speedo - stop stirring the pot would you!
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Old 10-05-2001, 01:30 PM
  #634  
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Sorry guys- I didn't mean to add to the pissing contest... I just get frustrated at the marketing techniques.

Anyway, my close racing buddy is running silvers X 4 and 50wt shock oil. The rest is basically kit stock with sorex's and his car is HOOKED!. In fact, it was so hooked he was nosing into the pipes cause he wasn't used to a car reacting so quick. I drove it, and told him the only way I could drive it would be to turn the dual rate down!!!

I was impressed, but I'm gonna keep trying to tune this SP for now.
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Old 10-05-2001, 08:44 PM
  #635  
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Originally posted by stefan
TR6
wait until one guy at your track breaks out the money and gets all the graphite stuff and aluminum CVD's and you will have to to buy the same stuff to keep up.
This is exactly what happened to me.
Just went back to the Yok, it's faster anyways.
Go stefen

I think the Team TC3 came with a graphite chassis. the FT came with all graphite. I'm not dissing the XXX-S, I'm sure it is a great car, and I might like to buy one, IF IT CAME WITH A REASONABLE NUMBER OF HOPUPS. For 50 bucks more, you can get a yok special , and that 50 bucks is the cost of just the graphite chassis. Put in there other graphite, aluminum uni's, threaded shocks and one is obviously a better deal.
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Old 10-05-2001, 09:08 PM
  #636  
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Hey you also pay for the single belt and the newest technology. One thing I've learned about car lately is the amount of tweek a car has greatly effects handling. Take the special, it has a huge amount of flex in the chassis and is quite finiky, etiher works great or like poo. But stiffer chassis are more reliable like the associated and losi. They develop just slightly less traction but they are consistant and tweek will never be effected unless you drop it off the roof of a building.

On the other hand I have my XXXs runing awsome. Lowered front roll center, drilled a new hole on the rear shock tower which help corner speed. I've won the last 2 weeks and TQed stock by 7 secs. Have both track record for stock and mod.

Ken
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Old 10-06-2001, 12:13 AM
  #637  
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Default Bearing spacers?

Does anyone know what the purpose is for bearing spacers? I remember back in 1986 my first skateboard had them, but it seemed like the board was faster after I took them out of the wheels. Then again, maybe I'm tripin'.

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Old 10-06-2001, 05:40 AM
  #638  
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proudwinner - I believe the bearing spacers are there so that when you tighten up the wheel nuts the CVD will not pull the two bearings together and cause them to bind. People were having this problem quite a bit when the TC3 first came out but then Associated started putting the spacers in the kit.

Has anyone seen the new bumper brace on their hobby shop shelf? Just wondering if Horizon has received them from Losi yet.
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Old 10-06-2001, 08:54 AM
  #639  
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Schuie haven't seen it yet. I'm not going to get it since I made my own out of C/F about a month ago.
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Old 10-06-2001, 08:54 AM
  #640  
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Ken

Did you modify the front arms mounts to make them lower so you could run low roll center? And tell us more about the hole you drilled in the rear tower.

Thanks

Bob
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Old 10-06-2001, 08:58 AM
  #641  
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Has anyone tried the Andrew Gray setup for carpet with foams tires off the Losi website? I ran it for two weekends and it seems very good so far.

I wish I could get more corner speed, any setups or ideas? Thanks everyone.
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Old 10-06-2001, 09:05 AM
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Just the block. trimmed 3 mm off and moved the kickup block to the lower holes. Its seemed like it quickened up steering response, and still stable. On the rear shock tower I drilled a new shock location inside the #1 hole so I could lay the shocks in more. I got more on power steering and the car was faster in the corners. Since I don't have the one-way It helped a bit.
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Old 10-06-2001, 08:45 PM
  #643  
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To run Low roll center, you need to cut the pivot blocks 0.150".

As far as drilling a new, #0 hole, you really shouldn't need to. Going down a spring rate, and then out a hole or two, should reduce the effective spring rate as much as going in an additional hole would.
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Old 10-06-2001, 11:20 PM
  #644  
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I was mainly after the shock angle. The increased shock angle gives you more side bite and less foward traction. There was room to drill it and it didn't weaken it at all, and besides it was no harm done.

Spring rate wasn't what I was after it was the effects of shock angle had in the corners. But right now my car it working real well and I don't know what more to do right now, besides the one way when I get it.

Hey has anyone had trouble with the aluminum CVDs in front. I actually broke the CVD at the pin holes and I heard from some others that they had some problems.
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Old 10-07-2001, 12:10 AM
  #645  
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SirSpeedy- How exactly do I get to Tigobitty Florida? It sure sounds interesting....lol
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