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Old 06-15-2003, 11:14 PM   #6406
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Droop screws all the way out.Shocks are 65.5mm.With the high roll center blocks its fine im only having a problem with low roll center blocks.
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Old 06-15-2003, 11:35 PM   #6407
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are you running .28 shafts, with .28 bodies? If so, thats why..

You either need to unscrew your shock bodies to re-gain the shock length, or switch to .36 bodies. You can still run the .28 shafts..
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Old 06-15-2003, 11:41 PM   #6408
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I am running .36 bodies and .36 shafts.Problem is only on the rear of the car.
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Old 06-16-2003, 12:07 AM   #6409
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im not t. hodge but i might be able to help.
roborat-try tightening down the motor clamp some more. it is made of graphite so will "flex" a little. if this does not work, then just get the aluminum clamp. also, make sure the flange on the graphite clamp is facing away from the center of the car. it does make a difference.
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Old 06-16-2003, 04:04 AM   #6410
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Quote:
Originally posted by ernieball
im not t. hodge but i might be able to help.
roborat-try tightening down the motor clamp some more. it is made of graphite so will "flex" a little. if this does not work, then just get the aluminum clamp. also, make sure the flange on the graphite clamp is facing away from the center of the car. it does make a difference.
thanks for suggestions ernieball. but ive tried cranking down on the clamp already. in fact to the point that i damaged the clamp. i have a new clamp on and still the same problem - just stripped another spur last weekend. oh, and the the flat side of the clamp is facing the chassis. i wanna stay away from the alum clamps if i could coz im trying to keep weight down ... plus im kinda sick of red already hehehe ... unless anyone knows of a black annodized clamp out there?
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Old 06-16-2003, 04:41 AM   #6411
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ROBORAT in regards to the spur gears stripping!

The only way that I can see the gears stripping is:

1} the gear mesh is set too loose or too tight.

2}the motor is comming loose from the lowered motor plate

3} the motor plate including motor is moving and jamming up
the pinion and the spur on impact.

4} the motor locks up on impact jamming the pinion, stripping
the spur.


Are any of these contributing to your problem?

What pitch gears are you using 48 or 64?
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Old 06-16-2003, 04:49 AM   #6412
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ROBORAT in regards to the spur gears stripping!

The only way that I can see the gears stripping is:

1} the gear mesh is set too loose or too tight.

2}the motor is comming loose from the lowered motor plate

3} the motor plate including motor is moving and jamming up
the pinion and the spur on impact.

4} the motor locks up on impact jamming the pinion, stripping
the spur.


Are any of these contributing to your problem?

What pitch gears are you using 48 or 64?
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Old 06-16-2003, 06:45 AM   #6413
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I had a similar problem, seemingly for no reason my spur (48dp) stripped 3 weeks running. I replaced the top shaft and bearings and it sorted out the problem. There could be a slight bend or mis-machined part that could make the spur weaker during crashes. Also check for a damaged pinion gear.
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Old 06-16-2003, 07:26 AM   #6414
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Quote:
Originally posted by ROBORAT
thanks for suggestions ernieball. but ive tried cranking down on the clamp already. in fact to the point that i damaged the clamp.
I don't think you need to tighten so much that the clamp is broken. Why not check on the chassis if there is any dirt or small stone that block the motor plate.

I experience some dirt that is on the groove such that the motor plate will not be clamped on properly.

Also, I find that losi spur gear is not very strong and tend to wrap under stress. so, I suggest you might have have slightly more gap between the spur and the pinion.

Good luck!
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Old 06-16-2003, 08:16 AM   #6415
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See- sounds to me like what you wanna hear is "Losi molded a part incorrectly"..... So here ya go...... Losi molded a part incorrectly, start replacing every part on the car until there isn't anything left to be replaced, then lengthen you shock and finally get the ride height....


I am assumming you are using internal spacers to set droop, well when you do this you need to set your droop for the ride height you want by lengthening/shortening the shock and then set you rideheight.
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Old 06-16-2003, 09:23 AM   #6416
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Default transponder mount

i dont have a personal transponder so i need a transponder mount. how are you guys mounting yours. the way i am doing it looks really $hity. i took an AE trnp. mount and bolted it to one of the screws on the motor mount. the trnp. sits on top of the receiver. looks really ghetto. any help would be appreciated.
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Old 06-16-2003, 10:31 AM   #6417
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See- I'm coming to get your car right now so your problem will be solved in about 20min.

ernieball- You can cut a piece of lexan and mount it on the servo and have your transponder mounted right behind your servo. Depending on what type of receiver you use....you will have to mount it on it's side closer to the tunnel to give the transponder a little room. As far as looking ghetto....if it works stay with it. Once the body goes on who can see it?
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Old 06-16-2003, 10:43 AM   #6418
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Default Transponder mount

there are 4 ways I can personally think of.....

1. TC3 style hanging off the side of the chassis servo taped to the servo. DAMGERIOUS----- if that thing gets hit it will be easily dislodged from the car and possibly damaging the transponder and most tracks make you pay for damaged transponders.....

2. If your reciever is mounted on it's side agianst the tunnel... you could make a lexan transponder mount that servo tapes to the top of teh servo and hangs the transponder between the servo and motor, you could even remove the chassis material below the tranponder area to facilitate easier access .... I think this is the safest and most sercure way If I didn't have a personal I would mount mine this way, not to mention the best looking....

3. take a strip of lexan and fold it into a 4 sided "box" that surrounds the transponder and tapes to the top of the servo...... looks a little ghetto, but is the second most sercure mounting.

4. Take a piece of lexan and make holes to span it between the front body mounts, and the transponder mounting in the center....... Most popular because people actually elieve they can win/loose a race by that .00001 second.... what a joke!!!! If you can win or lose a race simply by mountng the transponder in a 4 inch difference then maybe you diserved to win/lose the race..... BTW: the second easiest way to get the transponder damaged .............


Hope this helps!!
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Old 06-16-2003, 12:21 PM   #6419
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i will go with #2 as it is the safest and best looking
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Old 06-16-2003, 12:51 PM   #6420
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When I replace my diff pulley should I replace all the bearings in there also? If not do I need more grease to reassemble it? I asked this before but no one replied. It's ok though.Thanks\

Brandon

P.S. Hey Dino I don't know how often you are on here, but I'm just lettin you know it's me. Well, see you at the race on saturday if I get my diff pulley in time.
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