toolmon

Is anyone here using aluminum pivot blocks and inner mounts (Speedtech RC's to be specific) for their XXX-S? If so, did it fix the rear toe mismatch?
Thanks.

rod_b

I run the SpeedTech blocks and my car is fine with the rear toe. But then again, it was fine with the stock blocks too.

stumper1

iTrader: (3)

STLNLST - Thanks - the AE clips did the job!!

ZER01

I know that when I set my car up with the Hudy setup system I get a rear-toe reading of 1.5 for the left and 2.5 for the right. That is with using the Losi blocks.

Bigtbone

What are ae clips? the piece that goes on the bottom of the spring?

tufferwilde

TSR6 - If that is the case, then definately pick up the kit version! It allows the racer to have the needed knowledge for rebuild/repair if and when needed!

out - Wilde

ChristopherKee

iTrader: (28)

That's why I can never decide if it's the chassis that is off or the drilling of the hubs... I know on my car it's not the blocks. I tried the MF ones as well as changing the diff cover and yanking everything around... still ended up with 1 deg more on the right... I don't mind running the 0 on the left and the 1 on the right... Since, if I break, I tend to break the left anyway.

Here's a quote from Todd Hodge on the problem

" agree with you on that one. I thought it was a optical illusion at first until I measured it on the hudy setup board. Mine was off about 1/4 degree on one side. Here is what I do when tightening down my rear pivots which helps alot. As I put the rear end together I loosen the pivot blocks that mount to the chassis. I then put the arms on and the rear pivot that captures the hinge pin to the diff cover. I screw that down all the way and then go back and tighten the pivots that are mounted to the chassis. This helps everything center."

As suggested earlier on this thread this may work for some... But some of us are just stuck running a staggered hubs..

When I ran my TC3 I also had the same problem. But it was due to stretching the plastic.. Not the case with my XXX-S

racecar850

ChrisO

Thanks fellas


I was thinking of getting either a GT7 or a Quantum comp, and race in stock.

LouisB

Very nice racecar850

tufferwilde, I've swapped from blue+60wt oil to red+40wt oil all round and I'll let you know how it works.

racecar850

Thanks hommie

Hometown.... Southend, Essex

KevanB

ChrisO the gt7 is probably your best choice, but you cant go wrong with either one! And if you will race stock, look into a p2k2 motor or a MonsterStockHorsepower motor. The type of motor really depends on your track!

And a servo wont be needed right away, it can be upgraded later. But it is one of the best ways to upgrade your car, so it wouldnt be a bad idea to have a good servo and a good ESC to go with a good car.

It all really depends on how experienced you are and how much money you are willing to spend

CRASH

iTrader: (26)

One guy I race with ran an LRP and was very fast and then he switcehd to a GT7 and I'll be darned if he is not going faster then he already was. So I would definetly get the GT7, I will be upgrading my TC2 to a GT7 very soon.

Later

Brian McGreevy

iTrader: (10)

Never owned an LRP, but my GT7 is noticeably faster than my tc2!!

ASM

iTrader: (30)

I first noticed the toe-in problem at the Snowbirds race. I bought the G+ arms and hubs to put on my original xxx-s. I actually had too much toe-in on the left side after I installed the new parts. I was using MF LRC blocks at the time. Loosening the blocks, changing rears hubs....none of this solved my problem. BUT buying a new set of rear arms solved the problem. I'm not saying this is the solution to everyone else's problem, but it solved mine. After searching and hunting for the cause, changing out multiple parts and then buying new arms as a last resort.....I was pissed to say the least!!