sleek the elite

O.k. I ended up running the losi low roll centres on the weekend with 4 degrees kickup AND 6 degree carriers, giving me 10 deg caster total (whoops). But it actually worked really well on the tight carpet track we were running on.

From my understanding, the standard MF carpet setup uses the equivalent of the losi mounts anyhow, as it says "low roll centre shimmed up 0.060" What I don't get is how a 4 degree kickup block gives you 3 deg anti dive, even if upside down in the 0 deg position. I assume maybe the aluminium pivot blocks are different.

jjmudd

iTrader: (5)

Could someone please explain what the forward ackerman with the bell-cranks fliped is supposed to do in the G+.

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

Sleek- your equasion is cute.....but it's wrong!!!!!!!....LOL

When you use the Losi low roll center blocks 0 deg fronts give -2 deg kick-up, 0 mounts are 0 deg kick-up, and 4 blocks = 2 deg kick-up

sleek the elite

yeah I know, I just remembered that and was going to edit my post, but you beat me to it.... DOH!

sleek the elite

still, that means that that I still have to shim the losi lrc blocks up slightly to get the same anti-dive (3 deg), and unless matts aluminium pivot blocks are different, that would give me the correct roll centre.

In any case, the setup I used was sweet, so I've got a base setup now anyhow...

JeffC

iTrader: (5)

I'm pretty sure the Losi LRC blocks are .060 higher than the MF LRC blocks. I never owned the original xxxs, just the g+. But didn't you have to cut the sides of the chassis down or something to make the MF blocks fit??? You don't need to do this on the G+. That tells me the MF blocks are lower......

So, as I understand it
MF LRC blocks= Low Roll Center
MF LRC blocks shimmed .060 = Mid Roll Center
Losi LRC blocks= Mid Roll Center
Losi HRC blocks= High Roll Center

Gus

On the rear PRP shock tower... after installing this, the camber links seems to be crooked when i have the arms in the middle setting. Meaning when looking from the top, the links seem to angle backwards... (the inside pivot on the shock tower is much more forward compared to the pivot on the hub / \ ). Will this affect the handling of the car? Any fix or mod for this?

Thanks in advance

sleek the elite

JeffC - Thanks for that, other people have been getting at that, and I'd kind of already figured it out, but that is the clearest way i've seen it explained.

Any ideas about the 3 deg anti dive ?

munrath

iTrader: (4)

It allows for smoother steering, but more aggressive. I've tried moving the arms and bell cranks up and flipping the bell cranks, however, it was just to hard for me to drive. IMO

Mark

ChristopherKee

iTrader: (28)

I have to agree with Unrath on the flipping, moving the bell cranks. I drive the XXX-S for the smoothness. Moving the bell's for ward and flipping them makes it feel more like my TC3 giving it, for me, no advantage.


tufferwilde -

Measure your G+ front block. It is HIGHER than the MF and LOWER than the high roll block. Yes it's plastic, but it is a MID roll block for the front. The rear block is the same size as my MF real low roll center block. So, I'm not mistaken.

ChristopherKee

iTrader: (28)

Todd Hodge says:

"The low front roll center is pretty much a mid roll center so there is no need to put the washers under it"

Here is a link to his post

Ko Racer

KEE..... where did you get your shock mounts? the quickie ones

tufferwilde

ChristopherKee -

It would appear that you are correct!! Looks as though I had better go and measure them next time I have the car apart! Gee.... good thing I took the time to copy my Cleveland setup on to the new car.... now that the car pretty much has high roll center up front! DOH.... I guess that would explain the amount of steering that the car has!

I do find it interesting though that Losi packages the parts as LRC... and that the manual has none of the info on them!

As for flipping the bell cranks - you guys are exactly correct... this will smooth the steering out some.... but I have found that the car felt better on the track with the cranks in the forward ackerman hole in standard direction.


Wilde

ZER01

You can help alleviate that problem by using the shortest ball stud on the tower, I noticed that with my PRP towers when I used titanium robinson-racing ball studs(they were longer than the stock chrome ones). The only other option to help straighten that link out is by mounting the rear arms full-forward. As far as how it will affect the handling, I can't find any documentation on how angling the upper-camber link horizontally in either direction will alter the handling of the car. That was a good question Gus.

Gus

Proudwinner: thanks for the suggestion on the shock tower. I tested the car today with the camber link at that angle. It didnt affect the car. Im glad I bought this set.... it has alot of tuning options!!!