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Old 02-21-2003, 09:58 PM   #5446
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Default Almost lost and confused

Hello all-

I have a few of questions to ask and I would imagine that they have all been asked before, but I haven't been on the R/C Tech website for sometime now.

I've updated my XXX-S with the rear shock tower, arms and off set hubs off of the G+. I was using the Todd Hodge setup sheet off of the Losi website to setup my car and I came across a term that is new to me. What is, and what happens when I move the Ackerman from forward to back.

Also let me know if I understand how the Off Set Hubs work. On the Todd Hodge setup sheet (So Cal Grand Prix Asphalt Setup), he has 2 degrees of toe in on his car. So I will want to use the 0 degree hubs to have the same as him and if I used the 1/2 degree hubs, I would have 3 degrees of toe in, and so on if I used the 1 degree. Do I have it right or am I lost and confused.

Also, has anybody tried using the Monster Diff Adjustment Screw Set (part #A-2910) in their diff.? How dose the spring work instead of the washers for the adjustment on the diff?

Thanks for all replays sent my way

Last edited by Team R; 02-22-2003 at 07:56 AM.
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Old 02-22-2003, 07:31 AM   #5447
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TeamR- On the rear hubs are you adding both 1/2 degree's to come up a total of 3 for the rear toe? With the 1/2 degree hubs the rear toe would be 2 1/2. People have different ways of looking at things so I just want to be sure we're on the same page so that we can get you the correct answers that you're looking for.

If you have the new chassis with the two ackerman positions this is what I've found when testing them. The foward one made the car a bit too aggressive for my liking. The rear position calmed it down a bit. It might be the way to go a very tight track. I did do my testing with a oneway though so maybe I'll try it again with a diff and see how that works. Let us know how if feels to you if you try it out.
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Old 02-22-2003, 07:53 AM   #5448
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here are a few updated pic after a few goodies added
tell you what guys i like this xxx-s G+ i wish i would had jumped on board along time ago
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Old 02-22-2003, 07:54 AM   #5449
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the rear
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Old 02-22-2003, 07:55 AM   #5450
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last shot
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Old 02-22-2003, 08:10 AM   #5451
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Ko Racer, looks good I have some Tamiya blue wheels too, they look sweet with the right paint job (and are great on the track)

I like the yellow wires, I always stick with red/black/blue because I know I'll plug it in the wrong way eventually
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Old 02-22-2003, 08:37 AM   #5452
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STLNLST- I was going off of the instructions that came in the package with the hubs, which is how I came up with the 3 degrees of rear toe in. After looking at the instructions (again) and your post, I think that the instructions are adding the total degrees of toe in (both sides) to get their 3 degrees, where you are going by just one side for you 2 Ĺ total. What do you have on your car, and what type of surface are you running on?

Iím using the old graphite chassis, so I donít have the Ackerman adjustment. I was just looking at the exploded view on the Losi website. Do you make the Ackerman adjustment by moving the steering post forward and back?

Thanks
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Old 02-22-2003, 10:21 AM   #5453
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Team R,

The rear arms themselves provide 2į of toe-in the .5į is added to it.
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Old 02-22-2003, 03:13 PM   #5454
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SHOCK LIMITERS

Has anybody experimented with shock limiters
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Old 02-22-2003, 03:30 PM   #5455
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Default Re: SHOCK LIMITERS

Quote:
Originally posted by racecar850
Has anybody experimented with shock limiters
Don't droop screws do the same job? only without the mess
The only cars I use shock limiters on are ones without droop screws.
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Old 02-22-2003, 04:05 PM   #5456
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SHOCK LIMITERS

my boo boo

i was asking about external limiters

who uses droop screws anyway
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Old 02-22-2003, 04:18 PM   #5457
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Quote:
Originally posted by LouisB
Ko Racer, looks good I have some Tamiya blue wheels too, they look sweet with the right paint job (and are great on the track)

I like the yellow wires, I always stick with red/black/blue because I know I'll plug it in the wrong way eventually
thanks louis B...yeah i like the blue and the pink wheels from tamiya.
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Old 02-22-2003, 04:29 PM   #5458
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Angry STLNLST........REAR TOE IN

I redrilled my rear pivot block to produce 0 deg of rear toe (just experimenting). The car was slightly less tail happy & very easy to drive
Now run with only 2 deg total rear toe in....more forward speed
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Old 02-22-2003, 08:10 PM   #5459
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Quote:
Originally posted by Team R
STLNLST- I was going off of the instructions that came in the package with the hubs, which is how I came up with the 3 degrees of rear toe in. After looking at the instructions (again) and your post, I think that the instructions are adding the total degrees of toe in (both sides) to get their 3 degrees, where you are going by just one side for you 2 Ĺ total. What do you have on your car, and what type of surface are you running on?

Iím using the old graphite chassis, so I donít have the Ackerman adjustment. I was just looking at the exploded view on the Losi website. Do you make the Ackerman adjustment by moving the steering post forward and back?

Thanks
This is STLNLST not MO...........
.......I have 2 1/2 on my car right now and I have run this on carpet and asphalt. I may go back to 2 degrees of toe in the rear end. I was so use to the instant traction that carpet gave that the car felt a little loose today so I'm going to lock the rear end up some. As far as the ackerman goes....moving the posts forwards and backwards does change it. I don't think that it's an adjustment that I'll use all that often but I did have to try it out once.
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Old 02-22-2003, 11:06 PM   #5460
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Default Chassis Drilling

I've had my XXX-S G+ for almost 2 months and I'm really happy with the car. A lot of guys at my track have drilled out their XXX-S's and wanted some info on drilling. Can someone tell me what they've used to cut their chassis or what pages this info might be on? I've heard that people are using dremels, but what type of bit works best?

Thanks,
Erik Rodriguez
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