teamAE

can anyone help me out, I NEED more steering I am running the stock setup and have tried moving the shocks up down moving camber links but just can't find one that works. I mostly need more mid and exit steering. Maybe green springs up front? sawy bar in teh rear?

Thanks

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

TeamAE---

1) redude front droop
2) increase kick-up to 2f or 4f
3) slightly loosen rear diff
4) change to low roll center on the front
5) 6 deg hubs/carriers


start in that order, the reason I put the 6 deg hubs last is because it is the option that costs extra cash.....LOL

ZER01

As far as using the stock Losi spurs, there's nothing you need to do as the belt will center itself as the diffs work. This applies to both the new an old kits. The belt will seem to slide back and forth after a freshly newly built car but after a pack of batteries are put through it the belt should be centered. Now on the new G+'s kits, mine does not slide back and forth(I haven't got to running it yet) but even if it did I know that after a pack it would be fine since I used to own the older kit.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Guys, if you saw my pics from a page or so ago-it might have worked as last night I drove my G+ several packs, had a few medium hits on the corner and head-on and also let a guy drive my car and he stuffed it hard a a few times. Nothing bent or broken in any incidences!!! Maybe I got lucky-maybe the mods helped!! But I would recommend you dremel or trim the upper bumper brace for starters. I also took off the front plastic ball ends that seem to shatter and put on AE ones that I had previousely cut down to do the TC3 rear shock tower on front set-up (pays to save old parts sometimes).

jjl

Your problem has nothing to do with the belt tensioner, your problem is that the spur gear is warped. Mine came warped, called Losi, they sent me a new one. You'll notice that the warped portion of the gear is the part of the gear that rubs against the tensioner. I would leave the tensioner as is and either file some of the spur gear on its side where it rubs against the belt tensioner (which is what i did) or get a new spur from losi. you'll find once you start running the car, you won't notice the rubbing, it's only when you manually move the car back and forth that you can tell. I saw another post complaining about a warped spur gear, hopefully the problem will be solved in future runs. Still a GREAT kit though.

teamAE

Thanks I am going on sat to try some stuff out. I think the droop will fix it as I was looking thorugh some setups and saw I was running 3 in the front before so I will go back to that. I am running 7 in the rear and 5 in the front now.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I bet changing the droop will help alot. Maybe try some different hub carriers too.

CRASH

iTrader: (26)

I just completed going through my car and noticed that both diffs seem to have alot of play side to side and up and down. Is this normal or is something wrong here? I have been running this car only on carpet.

Thanks

pfeiffer

wow



TRAXXAS IS BETTER


They are so cheap everytime you break a part you can just buy a whole new car.

JeffC

iTrader: (5)

I think your post just made everyone on this forum a little bit dumber

pfeiffer

No i am just playing around, I race losi, the good stuff.

Dave Kurschner

Crash - it is normal to have some play on the diff bearings. Usually, there is much more play front to back than there is up and down. I have been running mine this way for several months with no found ill effects on performance, diff wear, or anything else. It is better to have a little play than for the diff housing to be molded so closely that some would squeee the bearing and cause binding along with other problems. This space is left also if you desire to shim the bearings to center the belt on the pulleys. You can use very thin brass or even electrical tape. Only shim on the chassis side. This of course is a very fine adjustment but can give you even further drivetrain efficiency. Make sure to leave a small amount of play even if you do shim. But as I've said, I've run mine without any shimming and my car rolls very free.

CRASH

iTrader: (26)

Thanks for the info Dave. I just never really noticed it before.

ChristopherKee

iTrader: (28)

Thought I would post some shots of simple cheap mods to make your car look spiffy.

1. Cheap way to do a quick disconect shock mount. Use the Trinity shock bushings and 2 4x40 pan head screws and 2 3MM washers (6 for $2). Just screw in both sides and you have a fast way to move your shocks or take them off.

2. Just taking those 3MM washers and using them all over the car... Looks cool.

3. USe fuel tubing to keep you antena from touching the chassis. Keeps the glitch away.

4. A friend sand blasted my front shock collars. I like them better than the blue rear.

5. Trinity XXX sway bar mount. If you look, it's blue and you can push down the end mounts to the bottom to keep your bar from moving back and forth.

6. And last, Get a Ti or Steel ($14) screw kit. Looks way better than the black screws...

Ko Racer

very cool ! i have been waiting to see your ride and its all you said it was and thank you for the tips also