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Old 01-13-2003, 05:57 AM   #4951
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looks like you had a great weekend Dave. I know the info you give is always a big help here. What set up did you end running on you losi with the Take OffTires?

Thanks

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Old 01-13-2003, 06:51 AM   #4952
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Just a question,Have you tried cutting a belt or used one?
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Old 01-13-2003, 10:34 AM   #4953
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Default Carpet set-up w/rubber for G-Plus

Hello,

I'm in the process of building my Graphite Plus. I'm looking for a good carpet set-up for stock with rubber tires (probably Take-Offs). The local track is fairly small and tight (45 x 75).

Any input would be appreciated.

Glitching -

Definately insulate your graphite chassis from the battery. I had the same glitching problems untill I did that on my other car. The G Plus comes with some clear tape pre-cut just for that purpose.

Thanks
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Old 01-13-2003, 11:25 AM   #4954
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yep, that clear tape really is an important thing. losi would not put that in the box for no reason.
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Old 01-13-2003, 07:29 PM   #4955
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Default Weighty issues

Running 3000HV's, Quantum Competition speedy, reedy mod motor, and some aluminium screws, I am confident of getting my GP down to the limit with foams, but the stock rubber/wheels/inserts with no glue weighs 9g more at each corner than the 26mm foams. How do you get the car down to weight on rubber tyres ? are other tyres/wheels lighter ? I don't want to mill huge chunks out of the chassis, and i'd preferably like to leave the belt cover and spur gear cover on. If you could get aluminium screws in all sizes it might be possible. Titanium ballstuds also.
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Old 01-13-2003, 07:37 PM   #4956
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Sleek - You MUST see the latest Brian Kinwald chassis if you are thinking about takeing the dremel to a chassis.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...?postid=249437
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Old 01-13-2003, 08:02 PM   #4957
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FYI the batterys can also touch the other side and cause problems,I do use the clear tape,I think thats where my glitching problems are coming from,(car runs fine till I start getting pounded)The track I race at is real bad as far as hacks go.But it's cool,just gets me ready for the big races,hahaha.
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Old 01-13-2003, 11:23 PM   #4958
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Jeff - Thanks a bunch. It was a great racing event with good showings from most all of the teams and racers from around the country. I think Losi showed the new XXX-s GP's capabilities with 5 out of the top 10 spots in both Factory Stock and Modified classes. I'm really glad that you feel that my input has been helpful.

Here's the setup I was running at the Novak race.

Front - Purple Springs, 80wt Oil, 55 pistons, Shock tops in hole #1, camber link in #2, 4 deg castor, mid rollcenter block, 2F pivot support (ends up being -1deg kickup), -1 camber, 1/2 deg toe out, 5.5mm ride height, 3mm droop. Arm spacing half way between middle and forward with only .030" shim in front of arm

Rear - Silver Springs (1.15"), 60wt Oil, 55 pistons, Shock tops in hole #3, shock bottoms in outside hole, Low roll center blocks, camber link in #3 on inside and outside hole on rear hub with tall ballstud, 1/2 deg rear hubs for 2.5 deg of toe, 2R pivot block (2 deg of anti-squat), 5.5mm ride height, 5.5mm droop. Arm spacing half way between middle and forward with only .030" shim in front of arm

Misc - Battery Forward, 1 thin washer on steering bellcrank, 3/4 oz lead on left side of car, GP3300's, Losi Alpha Body (6 clip holes up in front and lowest hole in back), Personal transponder on top of servo.
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Old 01-13-2003, 11:57 PM   #4959
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The xxxs plus just makes the legal weight or is it under?
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Old 01-14-2003, 04:35 AM   #4960
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If you want to use strapping tape, you can elliminate the battery strap, and posts to save some weight, from my understanding this makes the side to side ballance much better...... also go ahead and dremel off the small area that the posts bolt down to. Use the lTrinity Lexan body post support instead of the losi molded piece. Ditch the rubber plug for the gear mesh site in favor of a much lighter piece of electrcal tape or shoe goo a small scrap piece of clear lexan in it's place..... lighter wheels will make a world of differnce in the acceleration department. You could dremel some of the weight out of the pulleys, and spur if you are really careful, just make sure you rebalance them. (I would not try this for mod) Dremel off the "carriing loop" on the back bumper.... use the lightest foam bumper you can find...... use a personnal transponder, the rules say your car has to be heavier due to the light weight design of the transponder, so that is weight you don't have to shed....... Use lighter electronics, Lrp Quantum speedos are super light. Also metal geared servos weight more. Assemble your battery packs with lighter battery bars (deans are the heaviest, I think Trinities are the lightest. Use 14 guage wire instead of 12, make sure your leads are a short as possible.....Don't use the included swivel mounts for the body posts, use lighter body pins. 1 color paint jobs using opaque colors (solid red, white, blue, black, no candies or translucients) Use Laquer based paints sprayed thru and airbrush...... Trinity bodies are thinner than Parma, and protform and thus wuillbe lighter..........

Alot of these options may only save a ver, very minute amount, but used together they can add up to alot of weight..... BTW I think all are better optons than using aluminum screws!!!!!

Get yourself a digital postal scale that wll measure out to .01 oz. and start weighting your options....LOL
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Old 01-14-2003, 04:56 AM   #4961
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This is hilarious, Kinwaldo machined all those passages thru the belt tunnel, and yet he still uses the lexan gear cover!!!!!



Also C/F shock towers should be lighter, and associated ballcups would be lighter too........ Ofna split Y spoke wheels are super light, Prolines and Hpi's are really heavy...... Slicks weigh less than treads, and most inserts are lighter than the losi pieces....... With the right wheel/tire/insert combo rubbers should be as light as if not lighter than foams.......
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Old 01-14-2003, 05:57 AM   #4962
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Unless I'm looking at that picture wrong, doesn't look like there are "passages" on that kinwald chassis, else we'd see belt. Looks to me like it's just "relieved" like the underside of the new chassis is ...pretty trick looking!
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Old 01-14-2003, 07:58 AM   #4963
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No, His chassis does not go all the way through. It is still a sealed drivetrain.

-Troy
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Old 01-14-2003, 12:01 PM   #4964
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Well, after a year and a half using a TC3 with great success, I decided to try a new car. Just for kicks, I went with the GP.

Put it together, and got all of the Electronics taken care of. Only had one complaint with the building of the car.
The spring retainer nut would not thread onto the shock unless I used a wrench. It was way to tight!!

Went out to race without ever practicing with it, and WON Stock!! Im a pretty good driver so that might have something do with it, but I was still very impressed!!

I was really impressed how smooth this car felt compared to my TC3. Only thing I changed from the stock setup was Low/mid(whatever they call it) Roll in the front and High Roll in the rear. Also went with 40wgt oil all the way around. Oh, went with the front spool also.
Anyway, for me the car was dialed and didn't have to tune anything. Looking forward the next weekend.

Now very proud owner of a GP

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June 23 -29

Last edited by Ortiz; 01-14-2003 at 02:58 PM.
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Old 01-15-2003, 12:18 AM   #4965
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Default Editable .PDF setup sheet for XXX-S GP

Hi guys,
I am wondering if anyone has an editable .PDF setup sheet for the new version of XXX-S GP..

Thanks Guys

Harris
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