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Old 01-10-2003, 12:39 AM   #4936
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yap...
if ur A-arms is in the most forward position,u will be increase the length between the front wheels to the rear wheels,tis is supposed 2 be better for high-speed track.
if ur A-arms is in the most backward position,u will be decrease the length between the front wheels to the rear wheels,tis is supposed 2 be better for technical track.
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Old 01-11-2003, 09:03 AM   #4937
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Hey guys I just got a XXXs used and I have a question about drrop. When the shocks are off the car and you turn the droop screws clockwise ie tighten them it pushes the A arm upward is this reducing or adding droop. I have tried to reason out this answer in my head but I would like a better explanation and im sure this is the place to get it Thanks guys and I appreciate all the info you guys have put out.
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Old 01-11-2003, 07:17 PM   #4938
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I'm not the full bottle on this, so someone else might like to correct me if I'm wrong, but here goes,

Droop is the amount of down travel the shocks allow the suspension to move. So by tightening the screw and pushing the a-arm upward, you are reducing droop. Where you may be getting confused is that on the losi, you are measuring "droop height" which is not droop and actually increases as you do this.
I would just think of this as a negative droop value.
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Old 01-12-2003, 06:01 AM   #4939
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Guys, in every other oneway I've had the supplier suggests what grease to re-lube the roller bearings in the one way. With Losi's oneway I can't find anything on the paperwork that came with it, can someone tell me what to use?


Also, after running it for the first time this week I swapped it out for the normal diff and I noticed one of the rollers had fallen out of the roller bearing, anyone else come across this before? Is it faulty?


Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-12-2003, 08:52 AM   #4940
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Any of you guys have any glitching problems with the xxxs with the graphite chassis?It's driving me crazy!I put the SAME radio gear in a different car(yokomo-graphite)NO GLITCHING!!I at first I thought it could be my radio so I put a different radio in the car(changed everything, speed controler,servo,reciver)Both radio's are FM,An airtronics and JR,both radios an in good shape.I dont know why these cars have such a bad problem with glitching,I must be missing something.(my reciever antenna is not touching the chassis anywhere)So if anybody has any suggestion's fire away.Thanks
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Old 01-12-2003, 09:10 AM   #4941
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Check the motor, try another or ckean the one you have up....... Last week a kid was having bad glitch problems with an FM Airtronics, he kept coming around and asking who had theirradio on, and what channel everyone was on. before I left I looked at his car, and handed him a parma comm stick, and told him how to use it....... This week he had no glitches.....

Also, run electrical tape on the sides of your chassis where the battery bars come in contact with it. Make sure the endbell of your motor doesn't come in contact with the chassis, same for the motor capasitors........ check for cracks or brealks in the insulation to your power wires, servo leads, radio antennaes, motor capasitors, and any other wiring under the body......

Mount yuor electronics, on 2 or 3 layers of servo tape.

Try a stand alone antennae mount.

change the motor capasitors.

hope this helps, it should if you don't just go through the list and say this won't work, that won't work...... what yu don't think will work is usually the problem....LOL
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Old 01-12-2003, 11:51 AM   #4942
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I cut my com all ready,changed cap's,All my electronics work fine in my TC-3 and Yokomo,thats motors to,I have heard that the batterys can cause some glitching if the bars touch the chassis.
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Old 01-12-2003, 12:12 PM   #4943
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I have the same problem. Changed motors, rewired everything, bought a new RX, still got a glitch.
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Old 01-12-2003, 12:54 PM   #4944
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I think I will see if I can do something about the batterys,if they touch the chassis anywhere.or go to the stiffzel chassis(stock)mill it out and be done with the radio problems.

Last edited by xxxkat; 01-12-2003 at 05:16 PM.
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Old 01-12-2003, 03:05 PM   #4945
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Hey has anyone noticed the different belvil washers that come in the graphite plus for the diffs?

I've run the piss out of my car for about a month on foam tires which is insanely hard on the diffs and they still feel perfect! They aren't tight and are super smooth.
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Old 01-12-2003, 06:01 PM   #4946
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Hey guys,

had some good racin today. Managed to make the A-main, but my BRp front bumper broke and dragged so I couldn't compete for 1st place, good racing by all the guys.

I am going to rebuild my diff this week and put in the new yellow belt. The only thing that won't be new on the diff other than the pulleys is the differential balls as I was told that they should still be good. I am replacing the rings,thrust balls, thrust screw, etc. This will be for one diff as the other is good but I will rebuild it anyway.

Ok, here is the question, how tight do you set the diff? I had gotten alot of different answers, ,guys at my track run it really tight or really loose. I try to go imbetween so it feels smooth but not tight. When running them tighter, what will I notice?

What should I experience when I mount the new yellow belt?

When I get the low roll centers, what will I see different in handling with the car?

Finally, I am planning to cleanout my bearings and re-oil them, or get new bearings. How should I go about this? Exactly what do I need to remove and how should I oil them?


Thanks!
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Old 01-12-2003, 07:11 PM   #4947
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I have the same questions as Cain.
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Old 01-12-2003, 07:26 PM   #4948
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I believe the roll center allows you to mess how fast the car will move side to side. Low roll in the front allows the car to transition very fast at turn in. makes the front aggressive. But it does seem to take away some corner speed on sweeping tracks. As you raise or stiffen the roll center you get a slower initial movement but also prevents the car from rolling over on itself...keeps flatter and will carry speed a little better. The rear works much the same. A low rear roll will plant the rear and rotate really fast. Nice on carpet or tight track.
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Old 01-12-2003, 08:21 PM   #4949
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On the yellow belt are you running stock or mod?The blue belt works better for stock,the yellow belt works better for mod,Right now the "hot" set up is to cut your blue belt in half(you know make 2 belts)This is only for stock NOT mod,This is what the real fast guy's at so. cal are doing(most of team losi factory driver's race their)it really frees up the car.
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Old 01-13-2003, 01:43 AM   #4950
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Cain - When racing stock, you typically want your diffs to be as free as possible without slipping at all. So in the rear, a looser diff usually lets your car rotate quicker on tighter corners. Tighter diffs (not too tight) will make your car fell more stable or smooth.

As far as the yellow belt. All you have to do is put it in the car and race it. It is much freer than the blue belt is right out of the package. In my opinion, don't bother trying to cut a belt. It's too risky and not noticeable in performance. You can set the tension fairly loose with less chance of skipping as well.

About your bearings. Try taking all the bearings out of the car. Fill a small glass jar or cup with about .5 to 1' of motorspray and drop all the bearings in there. Let em soak for an hour or two. Then take each one out. Now blast the bearing right at the seem between the seal and the inner race. Spin the bearing on your finger and keep doing it. It will make some noise, and gradually should get smoother in about 30 seconds of spinning it if its not damaged. Once it spins real free dry, take one to two small drops of a very thin bearing oil like Trinity Royal Oil. And spin on finger for another 30 seconds. If you can't wait a couple of hours. You can try to pop the seals off one side of each bearing and just blast em with spray and spin. Repeat until the bearing is free. Then same oiling technique.
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