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Old 09-22-2001, 01:18 AM   #481
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I did'nt try it but I heard the rear end was loose.It also depends on what surface your running on.
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Old 09-22-2001, 06:41 AM   #482
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Hi Chizzler!!

I still use the stock setup. I'm ordering some parts today so i can run Paul's setup and see if i like that. The stock "outa the box" setup works great though.
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Old 09-22-2001, 10:40 AM   #483
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Slot - yup, the dirt oval brings back good memories!!!

Proudwinner - One problem with using the Trinity Motor Plate - it spaces the motor to the outside, thus moving the weight and the balance of the car out of whack. What you are looking to do can be accomplished far easier - just take the washer out from underneath the back screw. The screw is what binds with the chassis, not the motor plate itself. The armature will not bind on the screw.


Wolverine - as someone else stated, this is getting hard to believe. If you are having so many problems with the car - sell it. Buy something else. This car has some of the best features available and is running very well most most people on this board. The fact that you have had this many issues with it, makes me think that there were issues with the assembly of the car. The parts fit nearly perfect for me - these are kits, some work is going to have to be done - on every one, not just the Losi.

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Old 09-22-2001, 03:07 PM   #484
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tufferwilde-your right, I thought the motor was binding up against the chassis but hear me out also, if you use the two washers between the motor plate and motor there will be a small gap(1mm) and that will allow the air inside the can to exit out the bottom of the motor. My motor aint sticking out far. Thank you and race on.
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Old 09-22-2001, 08:33 PM   #485
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Quote:
Originally posted by tufferwilde
Slot - yup, the dirt oval brings back good memories!!!

Proudwinner - One problem with using the Trinity Motor Plate - it spaces the motor to the outside, thus moving the weight and the balance of the car out of whack. What you are looking to do can be accomplished far easier - just take the washer out from underneath the back screw. The screw is what binds with the chassis, not the motor plate itself. The armature will not bind on the screw.


Wolverine - as someone else stated, this is getting hard to believe. If you are having so many problems with the car - sell it. Buy something else. This car has some of the best features available and is running very well most most people on this board. The fact that you have had this many issues with it, makes me think that there were issues with the assembly of the car. The parts fit nearly perfect for me - these are kits, some work is going to have to be done - on every one, not just the Losi.

Wilde
with all the problem I am having with the losi, there is no way I can feel right selling to someone, so they may have the same problem............. I am not type of person that would do that to some one...............

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Old 09-22-2001, 09:20 PM   #486
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Alum CVD saga continues.

Once again today, I was in the A main and slapped a board (2x4) and ripped the left wheel off breaking the carrier and yes the CVD and the pin that connects the axle. This is twice now that this has happen. Yeah, Yeah, I know , don't hit the board. But when you are trying to catch the leader due to a wreck you were not responsible for, you are always going to take the corner just a little closer than normal and eventually catch a corner.

It looks like MIP did make the stem thicker to prevent bending but all they have done is move the break point down to the pin connector.

Anyone else have this problem?

I have purchased 3 pairs of alum. CVDs so far (since currently, they only sell the entire set) and it is getting expensive.


I guess my two options are:
1) get the buds bumper and do the dremel thing to get it to fit
2) Go back to steel dogbone up front
3) stop hitting boards (unlikely)
4) maybe Losi will fix the carrier from breaking so easily, hence do letting the CVD have a chance to break.
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Old 09-22-2001, 09:23 PM   #487
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MIP sell just the bone of the cvd. I should be the same as the front street weapon cvd

Ron
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Old 09-23-2001, 08:29 AM   #488
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I and others at my track had the same problems with the aluminum CVD's (where the pin gets riped out of the socket). We've gone back to the stock metal CVD's at least they only bend letting you finish the race, car handles like poop but at least you can finish. I guess that's the bummer about it if you put in a stronger piece somewhere the force is gonna end up getting transfered elsewhere in search of the "weakest link"
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Old 09-23-2001, 11:28 AM   #489
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Harsh- What I think the problem is with the steel bones is that they aren't thick enough. The alum one's are thicker but they are still alum and will bend. Once mip comes out with shinny cvd's for the car hopefully they will have addressed that problem. I'm going through Sting's old car today in hopes of running it next weekend in Ripon. Congrats on your 2nd place last night.
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Old 09-23-2001, 12:50 PM   #490
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Just Like the TC3 had problems, also does the Losi .
Remember when the TC3 would break arms and stuff? Associated fixed it didn't they. so just hang on it will be ok.
I can't wait till I get my new chassis so I can try mine out!!
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Old 09-23-2001, 02:05 PM   #491
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I'm not saying anything against the car ..love it so far, and the times I have broken stuff I "deserved" it ...on the bones I was just stating that rather than bending the shaft and being able to continue racing the aluminum ones seem to rip the pin through the socket and not be able to continue racing ...however the shaft stays straight as an arrow. From personal experience I don't feel the car is any less fragile than the Yokomo, Shcumacher or Xpress. The fact remains that it you hit boards head on at full throttle or with wheels turned making a corner ...stuff's gonna break
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Old 09-23-2001, 03:56 PM   #492
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HarshGuy: I totaly agree with you. I

t just sucks that these Aluminum bones cost so much. If Losi made composite ones (which it looks like they could), then it is just another plastic part breaking. And it is still very light.

Other than that, I love the car. My lap times were consistenly faster than anyone else in the stock class.

BTW, I just got finished make a new front bumper out of a BRP TC3 one. It took some dremeling but I am pretty sure the next time I hit something, the front end will now be safe.
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Old 09-23-2001, 05:56 PM   #493
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paul l. told me that the team runs steal in the front, and alum in the rear....cause the steal dont break.....

wilde..i just got back....go with what slots said....when i run a little more, i will give ya more info.....meaning when i know more...ha ha i have only run the car on carpet once...
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Old 09-23-2001, 06:25 PM   #494
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rodneybarrett - You will be amazed how much less you break with that front bumper attached I have yet to break anything on the front end of this car and believe me I've had some HARD hits. In fact, I plan on running the aluminum CVD's as soon as I can get just the bones from MIP. A few racers in my area are using them in conjunction with the Bud's bumper and have had no troubles keeping everything together. Good luck!
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Old 09-23-2001, 06:39 PM   #495
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Where can you get the Buds bumper or what is the part number for it. The track I race at is 2x4's and I don't want to break my graphite .

Mike Webb
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