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Old 12-21-2002, 10:22 AM   #4711
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Default well, I slapped myself.

I had the spindles mixed up left and right. BUT to me The front end of this car still has too many problems.

1st being the current cvds won't work with the oneway

1 1/2 I messed up two cvds tring to grind them down. A $20 mistake.

2nd I'm using the second hole from the outside and that still only leaves about 1mm of clearance from the spindle. Yes, you can add a shim, but that leads to the 3rd problem

3rd I am using AE's wheel hex and with the cars big shock springs there is not much turn in before the wheel hits the shock spring. I'm using 26mm foam tires.

Other than these issues, I like the car. At this point its much more difficult to work with than a TC3. I'll be wait for some updates and fixes from Losi. I'll imagine they will ignore it until many people complain.
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Old 12-21-2002, 12:01 PM   #4712
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Default Re: well, I slapped myself.

Quote:
Originally posted by Nightbreed
Other than these issues, I like the car. At this point its much more difficult to work with than a TC3. I'll be wait for some updates and fixes from Losi. I'll imagine they will ignore it until many people complain.
There really isnt anything to update. You are the only person that I have heard to have any problems even remotely similar to this, assuming that everything would be built corretly.

Just the fact that you are still having these problems tells me that something, somewhere must be swaped with the wrong part, or just something is just not right.

I hate to say "it's your fault, bla bla bla" but so many people have built the car with none of the problems you are describing, so I would find it hard to beleive that it is something within the design.

My personal reccomendation would be to get a good night of sleep, wake up, grab a nice cup of coffee, a pepsi, or other beverage of choice, and slowly tear down the front suspension of your car. Check the one-way. Make sure each outdrive is seated into the one-way itself. The clearance between the outdrive and the one-way housing should be about the space of two sheets of paper. Next, Go through and check each spindle, castor block, suspension arm, front hinge pin carrier(0F,2F,4F), make sure each is on the correct side of the car, make sure that you are using the correct hole in the front of the hinge pin carrier. If you have the high roll center, use the top hole. If you have the low roll center, use the bottom hole on the bulkheads. Check each bearing in the spindle.. make sure each is seated, with no dirt, ect keeping it from fully seating into the spindle.

A good rebuild might be exactly what you need. Something, Somewhere just isn't right.
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Old 12-21-2002, 05:20 PM   #4713
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what are the stock caster blocks that come with the XXX-S? (ie- 4 degrees, 0 degrees, etc). What will I gain going from say 0 degrees to 4 degrees.


Thanks.
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Old 12-21-2002, 06:43 PM   #4714
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Default Hummm...

I'll recheck the bearings, but i am sure they are fine. Are you saying the cvds should work with the oneway without grinding them? This is the 2nd XXX-S that I have put together and I thought the oneway fit fine my other one. I never had a problem putting my other graphite one together. I'll keep tring.
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Old 12-21-2002, 09:04 PM   #4715
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well, I think I found part of the reason why my vehicle would all the hell. I had the rear shocks on the front! I modified my starting setup to the following:

Black springs all around (got some congos coming in)
60 weight all around
front camber link 2 hole from inside
rear camber link bottom hole closest to the chassis (PRP towers)


Will post how it goes tommorrow.
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Old 12-21-2002, 09:50 PM   #4716
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Cain

I believe the stock caster blocks are 2 degrees. I'm not positive, though. When you add caster (more degrees,) the steering feels less responsive and you lose some turn in, but the wheels snap back to center faster, so you get more turn out. When you reduce the caster (less degrees,) the steering feels more "twitchy" and you get more turn in, but the wheels don't snap back to center as quickly, so you lose some turn out. If you're running a one-way, you'll probably want to go with 4 degree caster blocks unless you're running a control tire or for some reason can't get enough turn in.
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Old 12-22-2002, 07:23 AM   #4717
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the stock caster blocks in the regular kit are zero degree. The graphite kit comes with 4 degree.
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Old 12-22-2002, 08:59 AM   #4718
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Well now I have my second week on my XXX-S Graphite Plus and man was it rolling. I ran my fastest times ever at my track and the car was on rails. I ran faster times than ever before and the worst thing was that the car was easy to drive. I had my Yoke running almost the sames times but it was not near as forgiving and consistant as my Losi. I'm a believer in this car like never before. Man I want to race again next weekend already. I think I will try the locked diff setup once to see what happens. I have two weeks til I race again so I will build a new locked diff setup to try. I hate one ways so this is the next best thing and I can still have brakes if needed.
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Old 12-22-2002, 01:16 PM   #4719
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On the new chassis that comes w/ the graph + does the new steering bellcrank mounts add ackerman or take away ackerman. I have yet to complete my car but i was just curious. I'm sure that the ones farther back in the chassis are the origonal ones.
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Old 12-22-2002, 04:28 PM   #4720
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Hey Guys,

Just done with some more racin. Some of the faster guys weren't there which was ok since I had this new setup going. I changed the springs in the rear to purples, moved my rear camber link location away from the tower one hole, and moved my shocks up front the furthest away at the stock setting. 3 mm ride height all around and the front diff tighter (more than slightly) than the rear. Sauced all my tires to refresh them as I haven't done this to them at all.

This really hooked my car up on the track. I went up 2 laps by the A -main and won it easily. (25 laps to the closest was a 21 or 22 I think). I am amazed how fast the car was. That new shock tower had it so it could easily turn on a dime. I think with the new stratus body I have coming in, I am going to run the front shocks in one hole to drop the amount of steering down a bit since my current body (an HPI Alph romeo) doesn't generate much steering. I also tightened up the belt tensioner since it looked alittle loose.

This car is really on fire! Some more tuning here and there and I think I can make the A main on a consistent basis.

Now for the questions:

1) If I go to say stiffer springs all around, but in general keep the ratio between front and rear the same as I have now, will this help cut down on chassis roll and flipping? I didn't flip but twice and I did hit the turns hard, but I would like to see if that was possible. If not, tell me what you believe will happen.

2) what will shortening / lengthening the front camber link due for my vehicle?

3) When you set your droop, should you have the shocks on the vehicle or off (I heard conflicting reports about this).

4) MOTOR QUESTION: Where should the heavier spring go on the Chameleon based motors? I heard that I should have the heavier spring on the negative side till today, and when switching to the positive side I had a lot more punch than before.


I think that about sums it up. I am going to write this setting down on one of those setup sheets as well as the track configuration it worked well on. Oh, If you can find the heatsink / motor clamp, ,Dynamite style, get it, It really cut down on the motor heat. I am impressed with the version of it I have.
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Old 12-23-2002, 03:49 PM   #4721
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You didn't say if you are running foam or rubber tires - but yes, stiffer springs will reduce chassis roll. Often on foams the car will feel too "square" or notchy if you get too stiff. And likewise rubber tires will overheat if you get to stiff. Try sway bars first, or take away a little droop.

Longer camber links will have less initial roll, generally making the car less reactive, which feels more stable. The longer link will roll further however, once you get it rolling over. So it can lead to more traction is sweepers, or any area of the track where one side of the chassis is loaded for an extended period of time. That is a generalization however, link lenth and heights are really variable on the track conditions and traction.

I set droop with everything on and hooked up - just like you are going to run the car on the track - which is were it matters anyways right? Rich just put up a nice tutorial on the Losi site about setting droop.....it is pretty good.

Nelson-

If you run the forward holes flip your belcranks around the other way to keep the alignment correct for the steering servo and bellcrank tie rod.
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Old 12-23-2002, 10:00 PM   #4722
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Does anybody know where to get a fillable pdf setup sheet for the XXX-S GRAPHITE PLUS?

I know there's one for the regular XXX-S here.
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Old 12-23-2002, 10:15 PM   #4723
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Hey losi have one on there site hope the link works.

http://www.teamlosi.com/setups/xxxs_plus/index.htm

it also has a few setups from there team drivers as well as the blank one.

Hope all is well

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Old 12-23-2002, 10:22 PM   #4724
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Does the G+ come with "Usable" tyres and inserts?

I've got a pile of dodgy kit tyres from many, many cars and I'm hoping to actually use some, rather than instantly bin them...
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Old 12-23-2002, 11:08 PM   #4725
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Gidday Simon,

Are you planning on racing at the nats?

cya
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