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Old 12-10-2002, 08:33 PM   #4576
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Thanks kevin, mine must be really close to yours. I have the rear pivot mount inthe bottom hole and the front in the 6th. I was questioning it since I looked at some of the team drivers setup sheets and they say "clip only", which I think would mean that their body is sitting a lot lower. I guess I will stick with it the way it is so far.

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Old 12-11-2002, 08:28 AM   #4577
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Anyone replaced their bearings with a different company? Mine aren't that old, and feel like crap already. I always pull the shields, clean well, and apply a light bearing oil to them, but they still feel like crap.Its like the balls inside are soft and already have flat spots to them.
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Old 12-11-2002, 08:47 AM   #4578
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Normally I never spray out bearings because once you do they are never the same again. I have found that I just wipe the outside of them off so the dirt can't get pushed into the bearing. I have never in 17 years had a bearing go bad unlessI tighten a wheel nut to tight after I shimmed the wheel. Once the factory grease is sprayed out the bearing is unprotected. Normal bearing oil is not the same as the factory grease that will also capture contaminants and keep the bearings running smooth and no crunch too them.
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Old 12-11-2002, 09:36 AM   #4579
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Guys, got a question. Will it be ok if I just install 6 diff balls in the diff pulley instead of 12 (a ball on every other hole)? I just want to lighten up the diff.
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Old 12-11-2002, 09:42 AM   #4580
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wyd- With the bearings how they are out of the box there is too much rolling resistance in them from the thick grease. If your racing nitro, you wouldn't notice, but you can tell bigtime with stock touring on carpet.

Addict sa RC- If you run 6 balls you have a greater chance of the diff slipping and melting the pulley. Best bet is to stick with all 121. If you want to lighten it up, go with some ceramic balls.
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Old 12-11-2002, 10:06 AM   #4581
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wyd

If you take off one shield from each bearing and spray out the grease, you can still assemble the car so that no bearing is directly exposed to dirt. Just put the unshielded side on the inside of the chassis, upright, etc. If you like, you can even reinstall the shield afterward and it won't add much drag. There is a tiny ring that holds the shield in. Use an x-acto knife to carefully lift the ring out and the shield will pop right out. Once you see how it works, it's really easy to do. I usually tear my car down after 5 or 5 race days and clean each bearing out and check to make sure it still rolls smoothly. If it doesn't, I replace it. Use a light oil lubricant on them and they will still last a long time.
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Old 12-11-2002, 10:09 AM   #4582
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Why would the diff be more prone to slipping with fewer balls?
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Old 12-11-2002, 10:56 AM   #4583
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I'm using Acer Ceramic bearings in my car...they feel really good. The bearing kit for the whole car retails for right around $100...cheap for ceramics. I haven't had them in for long at all...I'll see if I got what I paid for, but I've heard good things about them.
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Old 12-11-2002, 11:35 AM   #4584
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i have boca ceramic bearings in the clutch of my gas truck.....they rock....well worth the cash...they have made it 10 times longer than the regular bearings......and they are still going....
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Old 12-11-2002, 11:47 AM   #4585
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I used the ceramic Acer bearings in my TC3. They spin well. I don't think, for me, they were worth the money.

If I was finishing 1 - 2 seconds off the lead then probably, but I'm 15 - 20 seconds back and I don't think the $100 for the ceramic's will make up 15 seconds

I'll stick to spraying them out and learning to drive better for now
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Old 12-11-2002, 12:34 PM   #4586
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The bearings in the new car are really pretty free for a stock bearing. The car is very free overall without spraying out the bearings. I did spray out the bearings on my 414M2 and the car is still not as free at my new XXX-S without doing anything. After a run or two it will be very free. If the car was not this free I would clean them out before I run them but since it is so good already it is a waste of time.

I did decide to paint the stock body that Losi gives you in the XXX plus. I don't really car for it but I will try it once and see what happens. If it works then the ugly factor will not bother me at all.
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Old 12-11-2002, 03:40 PM   #4587
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I've been racing all types of different 10th scale cars for a total of about 5 or 6 years. I'm not going pro anytime soon but I've had a bad day at the races if I'm not in the top 3 at a local club race or atleast the A-main. I was wondering how noticable this bearing sheild removing trick or high dollar bearings are to a racer that can run consistant lap times in the faster crowd. I measure my lap times by tenths of seconds, would spending the cash on bearings get a driver such as me better lap times or would it basically be nothing but a cool sticker for my car. I've got enough stickers..........
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Old 12-11-2002, 03:59 PM   #4588
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Addict sa RC- The balls are what connect the pully to the outdrives. Less grip, more slip. Less balls would mean you would have to tighten it more to make up for the extra grip you are missing with less balls.
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Old 12-11-2002, 04:06 PM   #4589
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Wyd- The Alfa body that comes with the G+ is the new hot body for the losi car. I know taht hte team guys have been having much success with the new body. A fellow racer friend of mine swears by the body and will not run anything else. I agree with you I perfer my 2.0 Stratus but if ugly is fast then ugly I run!...lol

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Old 12-11-2002, 04:16 PM   #4590
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I have Team PRP shock towers on the way for my XXX-S. What will the different shock and turnbuckle locations do for me? (ie- using the top row of holes for the shocks will give better "blah", further out, does blah).

I am also picked up a hold down / heat sink, looks pretty cool in the blue and won't block the motor holes.

Finally, changed my current oil settings, still running alittle soft in the rear compared to normal but I think that may be the hot ticket on our track.
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