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Old 12-09-2002, 08:01 PM   #4561
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I'm new to having a XXX-S so this might be kinda a dumb question but here it goes. I want to get an aluminum motor clamp but don't want the red ones, does the blue one for the Street Weapon work?
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Old 12-09-2002, 08:46 PM   #4562
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nope.....
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Old 12-09-2002, 10:24 PM   #4563
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ghost town- Try setting the droop to a lower number on the Losi gauge. Try 3 in the front and 5 in the rear. 7 all the way around may be too resposive.
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Old 12-09-2002, 10:45 PM   #4564
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wyd ...this one works, is blue & has a heatsink to boot ..I bought 2 from this dutch auction but this dude always has them on there:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...923935669&rd=1
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Old 12-10-2002, 12:32 AM   #4565
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Default Spool/Locked Diff?

When you guys talk about a spool, is that the same as locking the diff? It is talked about a bit in my xxx main setup guide and I was wondering what it does to the cars handling, can someone please explain?

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Old 12-10-2002, 12:44 AM   #4566
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The Spool is a solid Diff . In a Nut Shell the spool will give you MAD RIP coming off the turns. But It makes the car feel a little twitch and push’s a bit. I know Paul from losi is using it and he likes it. TQ’d CLV with it so you should try it and see what you think….

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Old 12-10-2002, 12:57 AM   #4567
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Blake - yes, a locked front diff and a spool are basically the same thing. Really, many people think of a spool as a custom machined one-piece front axle that takes the place of a front diff. Locking your existing diff does the exact same thing

A spool in front doesn't alow the left and right tire to spin at different speeds where a diff does and will. When you use a spool, your car will tend to have less intial steering going into a turn and have more on power mid and exit turn cornering speed. The spool applies more pulling power to the front wheels since that power and traction is not lost in the diff action.

For several years, one-way diffs have been the fastest way to go in rubber touring cars (but too twitchy for foam). In many cases, it still is the fastest. But there are risks to that speed. Cars with one-ways have much more initial steering. They also can't have very much brake applied because the car can get loose in back. Also, in tight racing situations, a car with a one-way will spin out easier when rubbing with another car. With the spool, it is easier to drive in some cases and the car can be more stable. So you get the pulling action of a one-way on power with the stable feeling of a front diff when braking. I think the effects are more noticeable in modified racing or in conditions where there is inadecquate front grip on your racing surface.
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Old 12-10-2002, 01:15 PM   #4568
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Thanks for the advice Pimpedaccord- The HPI yellow springs are quite a bit stiffer than Losi's silvers. I haven't tried a stiffer spring up front since everyone else at the track are using the purples and they seem to be working for the fast guys. Though, they're also using the kit silver springs in the rear *shrug*.

I've not heard about new rear a-arm/hubs yet. What is the difference? Also, my rear camber rods were already set in the location you mentioned. My droop setting doesn't seem to bind up the suspension movement. The majority of XXX-S drivers are running that low and you can see my chassis roll into the corner and settle when the throttle is applied. The car handles predictably until I let off power entering or in the middle of a corner. Thats when the back end just gets to light for me to feel like I can make a controlled pass or dodge some hacker.

I finally ran out of a 8 year old can of Paragon last year and I agree with you, it is more consistant throughout a run. But, the ol'LHS only carries the Trinity brands now.
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Old 12-10-2002, 01:47 PM   #4569
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I_GhostTown_I,

My car did the same thing only on assphalt instead of carpet. I found that it was due to to not enough droop. If you are running 7 as you say, I would think that when you let off throttle the rear of the car is lifting due to weight transfer to the front. You should try running 5 and see if it makes a difference. Also, are you running the battery forward or back?

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Old 12-10-2002, 02:30 PM   #4570
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Harshguy thanks....I will check that out and see if I to can get one.
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Old 12-10-2002, 04:29 PM   #4571
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Blake- You saw that I'm running the front at 7 also right? Conventionally if back is higher than the front oversteer problems almost always occur. Although I haven't tried this yet, I can't imagine that too much weight can transfer from front to back when it's already that low to the ground and I have eliminated the brakes.

I am running the pack in the foward position. I've tried moving in back but it seemed to swing the rear end around faster that way.
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Old 12-10-2002, 04:37 PM   #4572
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Quote:
Originally posted by STLNLST
ghost town- Try setting the droop to a lower number on the Losi gauge. Try 3 in the front and 5 in the rear. 7 all the way around may be too resposive.
you can try this setting. Works well everywhere I race.
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Old 12-10-2002, 04:43 PM   #4573
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That makes perfect sense.. Thank you very much.
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Old 12-10-2002, 07:37 PM   #4574
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Default Alpha Body Problem/Question

I just received my new losi Alpha's and noticed that there is no cut line. There is a very very faint line under the door line, about .610. I have cut it there but it seems like the body is a bit high. Can someone give me a measurement under the door line where I should cut or maybe let me know what the body height rules are and I can go from there?

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Old 12-10-2002, 07:56 PM   #4575
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I cant tell you exactly where to cut the body out at but I can tell you what holes I have my body mounted on. In the front Im in the 5th hole up from the bottom and in the rear Im in the lowest hole....this is with the little plastic rocker pices on the stock body posts. I mounted the body on the car then ran a sharpie laid down on my pit board around the body after it was mounted to get a cut line. Then ran the body and trimed as needed. Hope this helps.
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