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Old 11-29-2002, 08:18 AM   #4456
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the rear shock tower has an extra set of holes for different camber link locations which should help making the rear end a little less planted. The new camber link locations along with the new arms and hubs will give a racer more tuning options. You can run the new arms with your old hubs to keep your car the way we are running it now but you just have to make sure that you use the outer set of holes for the hinge pin.
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Old 11-29-2002, 10:32 AM   #4457
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Harshguy, yes that is the new body. I installed the new rear arms and hub carriers and I agree, they helped with the turning on a tight track. I have the PRP towers and tried a lower mounting position than the stock row of holes on the inner camber link and wow did it take rear traction away. The car could turn on a dime. I understand why they use the lower position on carpet to reduce bite and help car rotation.
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Old 11-29-2002, 11:40 AM   #4458
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Ok, So the new offset hubs, arms, and new shock tower seem to be the hot ticket right now? Should I go ahead and go with the losi XXX-S graphite shock towers (revised ones) or should I get the PRP or some other manufacturers towers? I want to make sure that the ones I get also work with the stock screws as I heard the speedtechs don't.

Thanks!
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Old 11-29-2002, 11:48 AM   #4459
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When will the new rear shock tower be available?

Also, ,how much weight do you drop with titanium screws and how much stronger are they than stock steel ones?

Finally, How much stronger are the new aluminum CVds that are coming with the XXX-S GP? Can you use the bones with the original axle from the older steel CVDs that come with the stock XXX-S?
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Old 11-29-2002, 03:06 PM   #4460
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Cain, I think that the new rear hubs are good for small,tight tracks. That seems to be all we race on in our area. The stock setting on the rear hubs will be good for larger tracks as I feel they will be more stable.
The PRP towers work fine with the stock screws. In addition they have quite a few more holes over the new shock towers on the Graphite. When I get my Graphite I am going to swap the towers out for the PRP ones.
I am not sure on the titanium screws as I took and put aluminum screws in most of my car. There are a few vital points where you will not want aluminum screws.
The stock axles will work with aluminum cvd shafts. You can either purchase the shafts seperately or get the complete ones. I have only seen pictures of the new stronger shafts but I have never had a problem with the original ones running them in the rear. I ran them in the front for many months in mod but a major collision with a wall took them out along with the c-hub and arm. (the steel ones would have broke too!!)
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Old 11-29-2002, 06:06 PM   #4461
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Thanks for the info. I am definitely looking into the PRP towers as I like there design.

How necessary are the front .28 shocks?

Anyone know if the new beefier CVD bones will work with the stock axles that come with the XXX-S? How many bones come in a pack when you buy a pack of the NEW MIP CVD Bones them from say K&T hobbies?

On the track we race at, the X-Rays just seem to out pull us losi guys and turn easier on a dime than the XXX-S can (they tune motors though so the pull part may be because of that). The car was excellent outside but inside I am actually running a stiffer rear than front to compensate. It has worked well, but I am hoping to get back to a more basic setting.

As for tough crashes, I KNOW WHAT YOU MEAN I have had some bad ones, but we are using the BRP (or buds i think) front bumper and nerf wings and I haven't broken a part since and I have crashed pretty hard.

Finally, anyone's thoughts on the new chassis design? it looks like they cut a lot away and I am not sure if thats a good thing as far as strength goes?
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Old 11-29-2002, 07:00 PM   #4462
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Hey K&T Hobbies! Any word when you will get more PRP Towers in?
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Old 11-29-2002, 07:09 PM   #4463
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i dun abt tat,but services from kthobbies.com is good...
i alreadi got some stuffs from him n the teamPRP shock towers r 1 of the proudest hop-ups i have on my xxxs.
i still got things i wan from him as soon as he has them...

check his website www.kthobbies.com or email kraig...
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Old 11-29-2002, 07:27 PM   #4464
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Cain, I bought mine direct from Ben (PRP). He is a super guy and very fast service. He responds quickly to emails.
http://home.attbi.com/~teamprp/
The .28 shocks make settings much easier to achive. Rideheight, droop,etc.
I too saw that the new chassis is really thin in some areas. I assume that it will be fine as I cannot believe Losi would change things and not have tested them first.
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Old 11-29-2002, 07:35 PM   #4465
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i think i prefer the old design with the TL logo...
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Old 11-29-2002, 08:33 PM   #4466
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Does anybody know the part number for the new yellow belt??
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Old 11-29-2002, 09:54 PM   #4467
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hey there ahh Doug Gaut ((and others too...),
what places would you NOT want to put aluminum screws at, i just ordered that set and am curious... i dont really know anywhere that you wouldnt want em... arent the screws stronger than the stockers??? stronger just seems better... am i right guys??? you see, i left my xxxs out in the garage last winter when i got mad at it and totally forgot about the car. was furious to find every screw on the darn car had rust spots... even the turnbuckles! so im taking this opportuninty to upgrade to titanium and aluminium products

-->CHRIS
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Old 11-29-2002, 10:05 PM   #4468
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you dont want aluminum screws on the shock mounts and the hinge pin mounts, the alloy screws will snap much easier. if you got the kinwald screws your still gonna have a few steel screws. to stop the screws rusting i sprayed wd40 on a q tip and rubed it on all the steel screws that were left. also you want to make sure that all the holes are very well taped and also use a high quality driver when puttting the alloy screws in. you can also rub soap or teflon on the screws.

Last edited by ausracer; 11-29-2002 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 11-29-2002, 10:37 PM   #4469
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I would agree that the alum screws will be fine in most areas of the car. I would not put them any place of high stress like the shock towers. They will reduce weight and heck lets face they look trick!

Get a set of Lunsford turnbuckles...some of the best money spent on a RC car!

Jeff
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Old 11-29-2002, 11:12 PM   #4470
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I left them out of these areas: upper and lower shock mounts, hinge pin mounts, front and rear pivot bars, battery holddown posts, steering posts on the bottom, front body post brace, body posts. I have them everywhere else. Luckily I have never broke one on the front or rear shock towers and they have been in for a year.
NOTE!! You need to get a 4-40 tap and tap all the holes you plan on putting the aluminum screws into or you will break them off just putting them in!! Voice of experience. They are not much fun to try to get out once they break.
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