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Old 11-10-2002, 02:26 PM   #4336
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Oby-You can put a very small amount of blue locktite on the end of the kingpin ballstud before you screw it in. This will keep it from coming loose, if that is your problem. Put a small drop on a piece of plastic and then roll the end of the ball stud through a thin layer of the locktite. Install as normal. Do this for the kingping screw on the bottom of the caster block as well. If you put too much locktite it will bind up the steering by oozing out of the bushings the screws go through. If the ball cups are just popping off, replace the ball cup with a new one.
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Old 11-10-2002, 03:27 PM   #4337
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OBY, Is this with the Fastrax spindles?
I was thinking that maybe the alum would cause the bushing to bind and unscrew the ballstud
As John Stranahan said, use thread lock and make sure that the bushings are OK (oh and make sure that nothing's bent)

A couple of weeks ago I couldn't screw a ball stud into my hub carrier and it kept on stripping the hole, that's when i found it was bent LOL

Make sure that the thread in the carrier is still there befroe you put it back together, I had that happen with the lower king pin/screw on my front spindle.

Anyone, do Street weapon rear CVDs fit on the XXX-S
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Old 11-10-2002, 05:43 PM   #4338
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No, only the front street weapon cvds will work. They are the longer ones. They are only a slight bit longer than a stock XXX-S one. I was able to purchase some shiny cvds, used the losi axles and ran them in the front for quite a while. (Till somebody turned their radio on!) The shiny cvds seemed stronger than the stock black ones. I have not had any luck finding any old street weapon fronts for quite a while. I hope MIP will be making some shiny cvds for our cars soon.
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Old 11-10-2002, 07:06 PM   #4339
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Quote:
Originally posted by Doug Gaut
No, only the front street weapon cvds will work. They are the longer ones. They are only a slight bit longer than a stock XXX-S one. I was able to purchase some shiny cvds, used the losi axles and ran them in the front for quite a while. (Till somebody turned their radio on!) The shiny cvds seemed stronger than the stock black ones. I have not had any luck finding any old street weapon fronts for quite a while. I hope MIP will be making some shiny cvds for our cars soon.
I ordered mine straight from MIP. It's been a while but I'm sure that MIP still has some of the Streetweapon cvd's in stock. Take a look at their webpage.
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Old 11-11-2002, 12:57 AM   #4340
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Default Front Foam Bumper

PaulP - Losi has made a new foam front bumper that is being released with the Graphite version of the car. it is a much narrower profile than the previous bumper and a more much dense foam. It is shaped to perfectly fit the new TL Alpha body with the wheel wells lining up without any modifications.

Foam tires - one thing to be careful about with foams is the widths that you buy. Some of the new tires out there, like TRC, Ellegi, Treadz, etc come in 30mm widths. These are too wide to use on the XXX-S without narrowing them a bit on your truer. Even the Jaco's, which are 28mm wide, may rub a bit on the shock bottoms especially in the front when you are turning.

OBY - In my opinion, the best thing to do is start with new steering hubs and thread the kingpin ballstuds without putting anything on the threads. Just do not overtighten. The biggest cause of these loosening up is impacts or crashes that oblong the threaded holes. Threadlock can actually soften the material around the threads. If you are trying to save some pennies and use an older hub, then I'd say to try the threadlock or just some plain old CA as threadlock as a temporary solution until you can get some new hubs. They do make a specific threadlock #425 (who's main ingredient by the way is cyanoacrylate or CA) that works with plastics but not all blue threadlock is this type. Use a steel or titanium ballstud there anyways, its a high impact area and the strength/wear benefits outweigh any weight issues.
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Old 11-11-2002, 06:31 PM   #4341
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Hi Guys

Had a good first outing with the XXXS. My power was severely lacking which held the car back. I also can't wait to see what the car will be like when I put the .28 shock on the front and the lowered roll center on the back.

Thank you for the tip on the new foam bumper dave I will keep an eye out for it.

On a side note I have found some things out with Foam tires and why they aren't fitting properly. I want to state early on that I am not trying to slam any manufacturer's or their products, these are just findings that I have found on my own with a friend.

It all started when I wanted to mount a set of Jaco Foams on my XXXS, I also have an AXIS 2 and a TC3 which my wife and son drive. All three of which take 0 deg offset rims. I had old foam left over from before the rubber tire days which were on 28mm TRC rims and 28mm Proline warlock rims(Which I am told are supposed to be +3 and +2deg offset respectively.)

What got me going was that the Jaco's which are supposed to be 0 deg offset were rubbing on the rear shock eyelets and the front shocks and ballcups. I tried them on all my touring cars and found them to be rubbing on all 3 cars. According to RC car action for 0 deg offset the inside hex should be 14mm directly in the middle. I placed a rim for each of the three rims upside down on a table and measured the depth through the axle hole to the table from the top of the hex. I also measured the depth of the hex to find that they were 5mm on all of the rims.

Here are the measurements that I came up with:

1. TRC 28mm tire had a depth of 15mm
2. Proline Warlock 28mm tire had a depth of 14mm
3. Jaco 28mm tire had a depth of 12mm

So using the 14mm as 0 deg offset that would make the TRC 28mm a +1 offset( Supposed to be +3) the Proline warlock a 0 deg offset( supposed to be +2) and the Jaco 28mm tire a -2 deg offset(Supposed to be 0).

I also did width measurements with all three brands on my XXXS TRC was 192mm, the Proline warlocks were 190mm and the Jaco rims were 186 mm width.

Also I measured the Hex thickness for a XXXS which I fould to be 4mm, which explained why the rims all binded on my hubs when the nut was snugged. I also measured the hex's on my schuie(5mm) and the TC3 (6mm).

Now all of these rims were origionally designed for use with rubber tires at 26mm and the newer jaco rim at 24mm. at these measurements the proposed offsets would be correct. I think when they made them 28mm the just added to the inside of the rim without adjusting for the offset. Yet this is just my hypothesis.

I fixed my problem with the Jaco rims on my XXXS by running the 6mm Associated hex's which widened my car to 190mm and I have no rubbing issues.

I can't speak for other tires but it is an easy check if you are unsure.
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Old 11-11-2002, 09:41 PM   #4342
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interesting...... we ran into those problems as well with the Jaco foams. Even with the AE hex's on we had to use 1mm spacer's on the outside of the hex's to keep the wheels from rubbing.

thanks for your info. It will help with other purchases. My big question is will the TRC tire's rub on the body since they are the 192mm?
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Old 11-11-2002, 10:48 PM   #4343
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Quote:
Originally posted by STLNLST
interesting...... we ran into those problems as well with the Jaco foams. Even with the AE hex's on we had to use 1mm spacer's on the outside of the hex's to keep the wheels from rubbing.

thanks for your info. It will help with other purchases. My big question is will the TRC tire's rub on the body since they are the 192mm?

I haven't used the TRC foams with my XXXS, but I do not have problems using them on my Axis2 with a stratus body. I am not sure if newer TRC rims are 28mm either. My LHS is not carrying them. I was thinking about using some Ellegi foam anyone have experience on carpet with their compounds

Cheers
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Old 11-11-2002, 11:24 PM   #4344
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The foam tire racing I've done with the Losi car was on the TRC mesh wheels - I cannot comment on how the new yellow wheel fits. The white wheels were just under 28mm, about 27mm.

The setup for the white mesh wheel was to run AE hexes front and rear. On the front arms, there is a boss on the front of the arm that moves the shock ball off the face of the arm ~0.050" or so. Grinding that off will move the shock back enough to clear the wheel at full lock(with the 0.030 washers on the spindle). Never had an issue with clearance on the rear.

On another note, the TRC's were noticably faster than any other tire any of us(Losi guys) tried. I attribute this to the wheel stiffness mostly. I tested with TRC, Jaco, Corally, and TM(Shuie). The Corally is the next best, but the rim is inch-up, so you have to adjust your tire size to compensate the handling issues associated with tire size. I never got to run the new yellow wheel.....our new carpet track was only open for 9 weeks....lol....long story.
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Old 11-11-2002, 11:33 PM   #4345
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why are you guys having to use such wide tire anyway. around where i am every one uses ufras or gandini (ellegi, fast, sprint) in 24mm or sometimes less. are you running on very low grip tracks or is there another advantage to using the wider tires.
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Old 11-12-2002, 12:44 AM   #4346
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Default Foam Tires

Ok guys, just to try an help clear things up a bit. The new TRC, Ellegi, Treadz, and even Team Orion tires are all made by the same manufacturer Gandini Racing Production. Companies have been marketing their name on these products. As far as I've seen for 1/10 scale tires, they make 2 widths to fit electric cars.. 26 mm and 30 mm. The new TRC yellow dish wheels have a slightly different offset than the Jaco wheels do. They are 1mm narrower from the hex to the outside of the rim.

If you want to use AE hexes on your XXX-S, you can do this with the TRC (Gandini) line of products. If you use Jaco 28mm wheels, your car will most likely be wider than 190mm which won't fly at some sanctioned racing events.

Unlike rubber tire racing which has primarily adopted 24mm rims as the standard, foam tires tend to perform better at 28 mm than they do at 24 or 26mm. There is performance gain from what I've experienced.

Also about comparing compounds. Alot of companies like TRC and Jaco use colors to simplify what compounds are what. If you look on the packaging, many will also list a number which is the Durometer reading or "hardness" of the tire's compound. For example, a Purple is aproximately 40. So if you buy a product listed at about 40, its comparable to a Purple. Or a Plaid tire is really Purple/Orange compounds. The inner 3/4 of the tire is Purple and the outside 1/4 or thereabouts is Orange. So the durometer should be something like 40/55 where the 55 is a much stiffer compound for the outer edge. Hopefully this helps to weed through the various brands to help compare apples to apples.
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Old 11-12-2002, 03:42 AM   #4347
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When you prepare the shocks ... all the procedure, including shock oil, etc ...

How can you check if they are correctly set up?

Mine seem to have good dampening, but the shaft moves back a bit on its own after fully stretched ... is it normal?
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Old 11-12-2002, 01:07 PM   #4348
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I do not think that is normal, I do believe that that is something to deal with the shock oil level. I probably am wrong due to the fact that I know very little about shocks.

I would like to know exactly when the new graphite kit will come out for the xxx-s? I know the graphite edition is expected in late November, but when is the kit going to be out?
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Old 11-12-2002, 01:18 PM   #4349
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senna: that is totally normal.
procedure; fill the shock with oil tighten the cap a bit, not all the way, compress the shock until excess oil drains out and shock is fully compressed, tighten all the way and you're done. Build them all the same.

I didn't understand your question Evil_S10. The Graphite Edition IS the new graphite kit. It will be released the last week in november or first week in December. An exact date is not given.
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Old 11-12-2002, 02:32 PM   #4350
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Aren't the new TRC's just the old Tredz repackaged?
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