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Old 08-26-2002, 12:42 AM   #3571
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try higher frequenzy with your esc~
also did you tightened the diff covers too much? that could creats drag
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Old 08-26-2002, 09:23 AM   #3572
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As you stated with the speedtech graphite shock towers. You will need (4) 4mm nuts to tighten the ball cups in. The holes for the ball cups and body posts are too big so you will need a bigger countersunk screw+nut. And you will need to drill the lower hole for the rear body post to make it bigger. Other than that it works perfectly.
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Old 08-26-2002, 02:39 PM   #3573
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I've been having some spur gear problems, I was racing yesterday and i was leading the heat, my car was the best handling and pretty quick in a straight line (driver and tires not so good) but I noticed a clicking fron the car which made me lose concentration and let 2nd place through. After the first round I was in 3rd place and had the fastest lap, I had a look over my car and found a couple of stripped teeth on my spur gear so I changed it and went back out. After about 4 mins it started to click again, the spur was fine but I couldn't find what was causing the clicking. I did the final round with a clicking car and I had to be more careful so as not to damage it further. I took out the spur, had a look at the teeth and it was fine so i put it back in and readjusted gear mesh all seemed fine but after a couple of laps of hte final my spur failed and I have no idea why
Has anyone else had this happen to them and what do you think is causing it (the gear mesh, motor, belt, diffs and driveshafts were fine)????????
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Old 08-26-2002, 04:50 PM   #3574
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is your motor setting losing its mesh? How hot a motor are you running? I noticed that if you can't run the mesh pretty tight with a high power motor it will back out on you. Does your spur gears spin true and not wobble excessively?
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Old 08-26-2002, 05:08 PM   #3575
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Louis - I had a small piece of sand or grit get into my pinion, and it only hit the spur gear every time it came around. It made noise, and slightly damaged the spur.

Just an idea...

-Troy
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Old 08-26-2002, 06:25 PM   #3576
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Onroad is soon coming here to my town Its gonna be a, i believe, 100 x 50 concrete track and I need to know what parts I'll need to get a good setup for the xxxs. Thanks
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Old 08-26-2002, 10:46 PM   #3577
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I'm going to be running my XXX-S on a oval (pavement) this Sunday. Dose anybody have a setup that they have used.
The track will be 60' X 140'.

Thanx for any input sent my way.
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Old 08-27-2002, 06:13 AM   #3578
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The pinion was fine, the weird thing is that it's the only time i've stripped a spur, and it happened twice in a row. After rebuilding i noticed that there was some wobble in the spur gear, not the plastic but the bearings and the top shaft how much play should the spur have?
BTW I'm getting the Fastrax gear adaptor, half the price of the trinity one
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Old 08-27-2002, 08:15 AM   #3579
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Talking Concrete

Quote:
Onroad is soon coming here to my town Its gonna be a, i believe, 100 x 50 concrete track and I need to know what parts I'll need to get a good setup for the xxxs. Thanks
You will probably need CS28 to CS32 Rubber tires (i.e. med. soft) with a firm insert. Get a good solid rim too, nothing mushy or soft. Like Yokomo or Speedmind rims. For some reason on concrete, you need firm inserts and rims. Medium to the softer range of springs blue, green, etc. Thats really it to run on concrete. Its like a low-grip asphalt set-up-only with firm inserts in tires. Adjust the dampening for bumps and start without sway bars and add them as you see fit.
Hope that helps!!

Ray

Last edited by rayhuang; 08-27-2002 at 08:26 AM.
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Old 08-27-2002, 09:58 AM   #3580
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Thanks. Would graphite anything help it for that concrete setup? Or what about those lowered shafts and shock bodies? Thanks again
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Old 08-27-2002, 11:21 AM   #3581
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Arrow Oh-those parts....

007Yoshi-sorry, I assumed you already had a tricked out $500.00 XXXS!!! Like the rest of us Losi Suckers!!! Side note:Helllo-LOSI-wanna get busy with the Spashett US Indoor Champs Version????

You should always have the threaded shocks front and rear. Might as well get the Front shortened threaded shock kit from Losi. Also, buy different front Caster blocks. Get the 0, 2 and 4 degree blocks so you have some options while practicing. Same in the rear. Buy some 1/2 and 1 degree toe in blocks to try.

Plastic arms are okay, but if you have the cash-why not get the Graphite update kit!!! It wont hurt in any way and you'll have a box of spares when your done converting!! If your on a budget, then just get the threaded shocks and run the rest of the car stock. Oh-better get all the shock pistons as well.

The next things to get are the Low roll Center Mods from Trinity or Speedmind. And a package of front and rear bumpers. You'll need to modify the front bumper for running low roll center. Its easy and you'll know what to do when you get there.

Last edited by rayhuang; 08-27-2002 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 08-27-2002, 11:34 AM   #3582
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Dang I didnt know itd get this technical. Sheesh Im so used to racing offroad... getting a xxxke and it needing no parts unless its eye candy or unnecessary

Thanks for info... I am on a tigther budget so maybe just the suspension parts and graphite could wait i think.
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Old 08-27-2002, 12:15 PM   #3583
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You don't need the shorter shock bodies, just the shafts. If you convert to the lower roll center, you can't use the shorter bodies with the short shafts anways.

-Troy
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Old 08-27-2002, 12:42 PM   #3584
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I've heard peolple say you can't use the.28 shocks ans LRC a couple of times now and I have been running it for 2 seasons now. I run only the short (.28) shocks and I run both LRC and HRC. There is plenty of both up & down travel.

Chad
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Old 08-27-2002, 01:08 PM   #3585
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Chadk, Same here. A bunch of run them here and have 0 problems.
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