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Old 08-20-2002, 01:51 PM   #3526
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Shrekair, I need some confirmation on roll center. When running the arms lower to the chassis is? And vice versa?

I have been running the car pretty soft on carpet with foams. I also run the arms lowered front and rear. A lot of us here in Ohio have experimented with springs and we are finding that a softer spring frees up the car some in the corners. I ran Losi purple up front and Losi blue in the rear with thick sway bars all the way around the car was just awesome.
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Old 08-20-2002, 02:28 PM   #3527
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LRC is with the arms closer to the chassis, however, the chassis will roll more.

i always run w/o sway bars, thats why my springs are heavier. maybe i need to invest in some HQ (high quality) sway bars? i like running heavier springs and laying the shocks down more on average. some guys like softer springs? i'm more consistant with "heavier" setup.
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Old 08-20-2002, 02:35 PM   #3528
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HRC vs LCR changes the roll characteristics of the car, so it is vevy driver and setup dependent. You could have 1 person running HRC and another running LRC with the same lap times. It's something you have to play with. Currently I am running mid-roll center up front and LRC in the rear on carpet with rubber tires and like it the best.

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Old 08-20-2002, 02:39 PM   #3529
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Thanks for the quick responses. I appreciate the help.

racerdave
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Old 08-21-2002, 11:25 AM   #3530
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Shrekair, Thanks. That is what I call LRC as well. Seems that everyone has a different view of LRC and HRC. I might look to you for some set up tips for the first USTC race. I am sure you will have your car dialed in (home track).

Take care,
Rob Love
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Old 08-21-2002, 02:17 PM   #3531
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*tempts you all by saying he's getting a titanium bottom chassis plate...*
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Old 08-21-2002, 02:29 PM   #3532
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oh aye i forgot to ask...

the rear hubs are 0degree right?

the rear bar thing sets the toe in?

but i have been told the bars arent too accurate, is this true? i was told aluminium ones would cure it.
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Old 08-21-2002, 04:11 PM   #3533
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how much slop is removed when using aluminum steering bellcranks?
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Old 08-21-2002, 09:11 PM   #3534
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stock, the XXX-S has 4 degrees of toe. The stock rear hubs niether add, no decrease toe.

1 degree hubs, put on to thier labeled sides ( left hub on the left side, right hub on the right side ) will add 2*toe ( one* per side ) to the 4 total

Putting 1 degree hubs on backwards ( left on the right, right on the left ) will remove 2*toe ( one* per side ) from the 4 total.

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Old 08-21-2002, 09:16 PM   #3535
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2 degrees per side is stock.
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Old 08-21-2002, 09:28 PM   #3536
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I guess i should have clarified... 4* total...not per side.
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Old 08-21-2002, 11:55 PM   #3537
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graphite bell cranks are the best, the aluminum can bend where as graphite will snap although i havent had one snap yet. aluminum is only good for knuckles, steering brace, and LRC blocks on the losi *in my opnion*

rob - i'm thinking congo blue front springs and losi black's in the rear and sway bars
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Old 08-21-2002, 11:59 PM   #3538
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i would like to get the alloy LRC block, but i haven't seen any around here
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Old 08-22-2002, 12:06 AM   #3539
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Quote:
Originally posted by shrekair
graphite bell cranks are the best
who makes them? Losi? I have not seen, or heard of them before.

As far as i knew, it was Losi Stock, Trinity, Speedtech, Dynamite, or some english company blue. ones

ill end this now before i lose power again... screen blipping
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Old 08-22-2002, 05:54 AM   #3540
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Quote:
Originally posted by shrekair
graphite bell cranks are the best, the aluminum can bend where as graphite will snap although i havent had one snap yet. aluminum is only good for knuckles, steering brace, and LRC blocks on the losi *in my opnion*

rob - i'm thinking congo blue front springs and losi black's in the rear and sway bars
I woulr rather break a graphite piece and replace it rather than bend the aluminum piece that stays bent and can change the way the car handles. Especially aluminum knuckles. This is just my opinion.
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