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Old 08-18-2002, 09:45 AM   #3496
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sorry, geared as in the manual, 20 tooth
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Old 08-18-2002, 10:57 AM   #3497
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Quote:
Originally posted by STLNLST
TSR6- I ran a green can for the first time yesterday and all I can say is WOW. That can really rocks if it's geared properly. Plenty of punch and the mid range you so great that everyone thought that I had plenty of top end. I had it geared at 128/34 No one could touch the motor last night. Traffic didn't help out last night but the car was killer. Maybe next weekend we'll go with a oneway. I'm using a friends car until I can get all of my stuff replaced.
I had run a GM3 early last summer, and i blew up two armatures. After that little experiance, i basicly put my GM3 can, and armature in my toolbox, and never took it out untill early this summer. I was like "wow" too.
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Old 08-18-2002, 12:03 PM   #3498
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I have tried a few different motors in my XXX-S and I always end up going back to a Green 3. The P2K2 seemed pretty good for awhile, but I could never get the top end out of it that I could with a Green 3, at least not without losing somewhere.

I wouldn't trust the gearing suggestions in the Losi manual for racing conditions. Those are really just general guidelines; to get it right, you have to gear for your track and your conditions. There is no one gearing that will always work everywhere.
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Old 08-18-2002, 12:15 PM   #3499
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STLNLST,

Here's the complete setup:

Front:

rideheight 5.5
1deg toe in
Camber -1.5
2deg caster
no sway bar
droop 2
2F pivot support
Arm - MDL
Diff std
Shocks #3 mnt pnt
50W with blue (not sure of piston, orange I think)
camberlink #2

Rear:

toe - kit std
rideheight 6.0
camber -1.5
no swaybar
droop 2
pivot 0R
arm space mdl
shocks #3 top, outside mnt bottom
camberlink #1, A
50W silver springs

Other:

Takeoff CS27's all around
Car - full graphite conversion, fantom factory p2k2 stock motor (118/32 gearing)
Body - HPI Celica
Underdrive setup (tried both...same problem with/without u-drive)

track was smooth unsealed asphalt....long sweeper/straight combination. track temp at main was ~110F.

Car felt well balanced, and had good grip, but just wasn't as lively in the turns as I expected....

Thanks!

Rich
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Old 08-18-2002, 03:47 PM   #3500
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Hey All. Back from another day of racing. I won the overall main and the very first heat and almost set a new track record (battery dumped again ) All in all it was a good race day.

I had my comm cut and trued and the motor really ran well. I also put heat sinks on my cyclone speed control (I already have the capacitor installed). That drag brake feature is NICE.

I lasted pretty long this time but still dumped early. The funny thing is the guys at my track, a couple of them were running stock motors or the street spec and were keeping right up there and setting fast laps as well. It seems the Chameleon motor is just really hard on batteries. I am thinking of maybe just going to a street spec and talking to the owner about making a different motor the default pro class spec motor, any suggestions (I will start that in another thread). Thanks again for all your help!
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Old 08-18-2002, 05:34 PM   #3501
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boykster- The first thing I would do to that set up is find out for sure which pistons are in the shocks (front and rear) and try my suggestions from the first post to you and if that doesn't feel right to you let's try doing this. Set your front droop to 3mm and the rear to 5mm or try putting on the 0 pivot support in the front with 4 degree caster blocks, zero to 1 degree toe out. I want to get you to your goal without really changing your entire set up. You seem to like the balanced feel it has so I don't want to take that away from you. The easiest thing to change is the droop so try that along with lowering the ride height a little. I hope this helps you some.
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Old 08-18-2002, 07:31 PM   #3502
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STLNLST,

I really appreciate the advise, thanks.

I'm almost certain that the pistons are (non drilled) orange front, red rear.

I'll give your first suggestion a try (spring change on rear, lowering ride height)...and if that doesn't work, I'll give your second suggestion a shot.

I started the day with blues on the rear, but was a little too loose. Maybe the combo of blues on the rear, with the lowered height would be a better match. Also, the track heated up considerably from my first practice (when I swapped springs) so that may have been a factor as well.

I also need to check the front diff tightness...I recently rebuilt it (broke outdrive cup - freak accident)...

Thanks again!

Rich

Last edited by boykster; 08-19-2002 at 10:23 AM.
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Old 08-18-2002, 08:18 PM   #3503
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I'll have to go and check my Losi sheets but I believe that the orange pistons are 55 and the red are 56. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

No need to thank me. We're all here to help and learn from each other.
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Old 08-18-2002, 09:41 PM   #3504
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I need to get some reamers for the suspension hinge pins. Anybody know what size I need because I cannot remember? Thanks!
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Old 08-18-2002, 11:14 PM   #3505
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Kraig - Ditto.
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Old 08-19-2002, 07:29 AM   #3506
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What color corresponds to which spur;
NEW A-3944 86T 48P Spur w/Drive Pulley (XXX-S) $5.00

NEW A-3945 88T 48P Spur w/DrivePulley (XXX-S) $5.00

NEW A-3946 90T 48P Spur w/Drive Pulley (XXX-S) $5.00

Thank you,
Dave
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Old 08-19-2002, 08:24 AM   #3507
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86 - red
88- green
90 - orange
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Old 08-19-2002, 01:09 PM   #3508
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Boykster-Where are you racing at, Fantasy World? If you are try to talk to Wang Wong, his setup is where I started when I went up there for the Summer Sizzler. I ended up running this for a setup:

Front:

rideheight 5mm
0 to 1/2 deg toe in
Camber -1
4deg caster
no sway bar
droop just so there is no spring slack at ride hieght
2F pivot support
Arm - FWD
Diff std
Shocks #2 mnt pnt
60W with blue 56 (red) piston
camberlink #2

Rear:

toe - kit std
rideheight 5
camber -1
no swaybar
droop just so there is no spring slack at ride hieght
pivot 0R
arm space mdl
shocks #2 top, inside mnt bottom
camberlink #1, A
60W Red springs with 56(red) pistons

Sorex 36r tires with HPI green inserts.

This was for mod but should be good for stock as I was a little loose.

Chad
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Old 08-19-2002, 01:36 PM   #3509
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Hi ChadK, (edit had wrong name, sorry)

No, I was racing with ESLROC up in Everett....I haven't raced at FW yet, just got back into RC (new to Touring cars...used to race pan cars on carpet) so I've been sticking with these guys for now.

I'll give your setup a try as well....

Thanks!

Rich

Last edited by boykster; 08-19-2002 at 02:58 PM.
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Old 08-19-2002, 06:15 PM   #3510
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Quote:
Originally posted by boykster
Hey Guys,

this thread is a great resource...I've learned alot in the past few weeks reading it (had my xxx-s for about a month now...3rd race with it tomorrow). I'm pretty comfortable with getting the car setup, and even at my first race I had a pretty good handling car...last race it was even better (small changes...one at a time).

I have a couple of ???'s

1. Has anyone else had trouble with the quality of the 64p spurs? I've gotten 3 of them (2 118's and a 108) and all of them had problems....the 118's weren't "true" (serious runout issues) and the 108 had a serious groove on about 1/4 of the teeth. And yes, the gears weren't true...I checked everything (assembly, mounting, etc) and I have the mf adapter - with a true std spur, it's true as can be...

2. Is there a replacement outdrive cup set that is available? I broke one last week and was wondering if there's a stronger, but still light replacement (I've seen the delrin ones on the xxx-s faq page..any US distributer?)

Otherwise, the car has been great. I haven't raced in many years (er 13 to be exact) and a lot has changed in the decade plus offtime....but I'm already having good success with the car. Not winning yet, but definately keeping up

Cheers,

Rich
I use Robinson's machined thin spurs and the MF adapter and have no rubbing problems.
It might be the button head screw that's rubbing the spur. When you assemble the tensioner wheel, you're suppose to put a washer on before the screw. I think it's to hold the bearing in place. I found that the screw head is just big enough to do the job and removing the washer keeps the head of the screw from sticking out and rubbing the spur.

As for the MF adapter, I agree that it's not very good. I had the same non-concentric problem others have described.
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