TSR6

iTrader: (5)

http://www.shearracing.com/tsr6/xxxs/losichassis1.jpg

That picture is a year old, but I used ShoeGoo to mount the capacitor both to the side of the ESC case, and the chassis itself. I have never had it come lose.

With everyone that asks this question, i think i'll try to grab a better picture tonight.

-Troy

Doug Gaut

I mounted my capacitor the way that Todd Hodge did in the December issue of Extreme R/C Cars magazine. I have yet to ever have a problem with it getting hit or unplugged.

yodace

iTrader: (8)

Does anybody know were I could get a digital, dial caliber.
For measuring turnbuckle lengths.

Trips

iTrader: (16)

Where do you have the rear camber links set now? Second hole out on the tower and outboard on the hub carrier seemed to plant the rear for me.

Trips

Trips

iTrader: (16)

If you're looking to purchase online, the McMaster Carr company should have a selection of both digital and dial types. Otherwise, any local machinist's supply in your area should have them.

I got mine at a local pawnshop, $25 for a set of Mitutoyo Digimatics. Don't overlook the pawnshop for some real bargains for R/C... in addition to my calipers, I got my airbrush compressor at the pawnshop, $30 for a Campbell-Hausfeld Quiet Air.

http://www.mcmaster.com


Trips

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

Alrighty, to the Cyclone Capacitor questions...

Here is another pic of how I mount it.

www.shearracing.com/tsr6/xxxs/cyclone.jpg

I also "hide" the extra ESC wires under the capacitor.. as they are just a tad too long.

-Troy

ZER01

A digital caliper is a great tool to have for this hobby, especially for measuring washers and shims for that fine tune on whatever. Using calipers to measure your turnbuckles so they are all the same length is a bit overkill for the fact that they change alot-that is if you experiment with differant settings so you will learn what does what. For one, when you change the ride height your toe is gonna change, If you change to differant tire sizes your toe is gonna change. Also, when changing roll center locations and droop combined with changing ride height and differant tire sizes this will definately alter your current toe settings. All this also changes your camber. A camber gauge or a setup station(Hudy, Integy, Yokomo) is your best bet to set your camber, toe and width) If you can't afford a setup station a camber gauge will do the job. Here's a tip for your tie-rods(toe) and it's very effective if you remember what to do. First make sure both tie-rods are the same length, here digital calipers are great to use but I just hold them up to one another and make sure they are the same length. I guess you could also put them on paper and mark off the lengths. Now, mount them on your car and make sure that when you pull the buckle(car is facing you) with your wrench(using needlenose pliers will defeat this purpose) you are tightening the turnbuckles(I do this for all the turnbuckles). Now for adjusting, using your wrench remember where you place the wrench on the tie-rod and how much you tighten one up(20degrees, 45degrees, etc...), do the other the same way and you have just adjusted both tie-rods in equal amounts without using calipers. I make one pass with the wrench and then I move to the other tie-rod and do the same checking my toe before I tighten anymore. For camber adjustments, I use setup wheels and a camber gauge and by the looks of my tires I'm satisfied with the results these tools provide. Again, digital calipers are a great tool for this hobby but it is too much trouble to bust off all the ball ends to measure their lengths remembering what was what and so on. The camber gauge makes an on-the-fly adjustment for camber and my method for toe is real convienent for me giving me no time to waste when changing toe. Hope this helps. Team Cobra(what I own) sells a dial caliper for about $30 that reads down to a thousanths of an inch.

LouisB

I have the camber links in the stock places, but I have a problem if I want to shorten them. My xxx-s came with an updated turnbuckle set for the rear (more thread showing) but when I upgraded to a Lunsford Titanium set the rear 'buckles don't have enough thread showing to use the shorter mounting positions

yodace

iTrader: (8)

thanks for all the help.

When you use a caliber you measure the distance between the two ball ends right.

Trips

iTrader: (16)

The stock location is the inner hole on the tower and the inner hole on the hub carrier if I recall correctly. IF you move the link out one hole on the tower and to the outer hole on the carrier, you will get the rear more planted, and you should only have to make a slight camber adjustment if at all.

Trips

LouisB

Thanx trips, I'll do some experimenting at the practice meeting this weekend.

ZER01

yodace, I used to use calipers to measure my tie-rods but I found out it's not effective as what I had explained. This doesn't mean you can't.

Fire

are the bearings that came with the kit supposed to be teflon sealed on one side??

shrekair

iTrader: (9)

i thought so, and do so continue to think in that manner

Arnoud

Some info from the IFMAR World championships

Losi did not have a full new package, the cars were more or less standard, but a bit of new things were experimented in the Losi camp.


The new thing for the XXX-S singelbelt driven Touring Car was a yellow belt. The new belt has different characteristics and hardness which results in a difference in the transmission.


Changes to the rear geometry were used well, although not by all drivers, but on Jukka Steenari's XXX-S a different rear shock tower was spotted. Compare the two different shocktowers to see the actual changes in mounting positions of the shocks.
(www.rczone.net)