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Old 06-14-2002, 12:26 AM   #2971
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i may be only 14 but i got skills and you can trust me.
Whoa, who says we don't have skills without be conceided about it-hehe.
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Old 06-14-2002, 05:38 AM   #2972
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Hi Guys.
I am new to this thread and am wondering what everyone has done to lower the front ride height. I am currently using the droop screws but know that this is not the ideal way to do it. All help appreciated.
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Old 06-14-2002, 06:00 AM   #2973
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Originally posted by Craig C
Hi Guys.
I am new to this thread and am wondering what everyone has done to lower the front ride height. I am currently using the droop screws but know that this is not the ideal way to do it. All help appreciated.
you shouldn't use droop to set your ride height. Adjust ride height with the shock collars. Hw low are you trying to go?
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Old 06-14-2002, 09:03 AM   #2974
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Originally posted by Cain
I have the BRP front bumper and my breakage hasn't happened since but I am looking into getting aluminum carriers front and rear. I am however looking for blue ones, I know a guy on ebay selling some that are made I think by CML? anyone have experience with these? they are the only ones that are in blue (which I prefer, not big on red).

Also, any know which is better, the Lunsford turnbuckles are the ones made by associated? if I go with lunsford, which RPM ball cups should I use? (I heard they have a super duty set out, will that work with the stock ball studs or should i just go withthe regular cups?)

if u look back in this thread i posted some comments and pics of them, but again...

yes i have the front and rear aluminium hubs made my CML and labelled "fastrax", they are excellent, hold the pins by grub screws very well, havent broken at all, good enough quality, and cheap!!! they are 15 a pair new so watch you dont get ripped off - www.xe.com < currency converter. 15 a pair front and rear. www.cmldistribution.co.uk < CML's site with pics.

i recommend them!

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Old 06-14-2002, 10:57 AM   #2975
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Craig C

I had trouble getting my car to go below 5mm and I assume that is what you are trying to do as well. If you get the front short shafts you will be able to with no problem. Also, if you get the threaded shock bodies and the Trinity blue amuminum adjusters, you will have the most versatility and it makes adjusting the tweak much easier.
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Old 06-14-2002, 06:33 PM   #2976
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i dono what yalll are talkin about an asfault set up would b the stock 1 and im not ganna boither with the other questons
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Old 06-14-2002, 06:54 PM   #2977
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Craig C -

It sounds like you are running the kit shocks, with the adjustable clamps. You may have to trim the tops of the clamps when running the softer springs, which are slightly longer to compensate for the lighter tension.

You should be able to make the car sit on the ground without the droop screws, without the short shafts, etc. Those are both improper ways to lower the rideheight, as it will preload the spring and make the chassis handle poorly. Just take a look at the car, and try to visualize what is limiting the car from sitting lower. Like mentioned above in another post, the threaded adjuster on the threaded bodies is lower profile than the clamp, thus making lower ride hieght easier to set.

I do not run the .28 bodies, you do not need them at all. Just cut off half the threads on the .36 shafts, and trim the lower shock eyelet to get more uptravel. If you like, you can also trim half the ring off of the lower spring retainer - the ring that centers the spring on the retainer. You want to make the entire top surface of the retainer flat, so it will go all the way up and sit flush against the bottom of the shock cartridge.

Good luck.
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Old 06-14-2002, 08:45 PM   #2978
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I am allittle confused, are the threaded shocks different lengths for the front and the rear? if so which length goes to which location?
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Old 06-14-2002, 09:45 PM   #2979
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The kit comes with .36" shock bodies and .36" shock shafts. Team Losi makes a .28" shock body and .28" shock shafts. The 28's are shorter. Using the 28's will shorten the front shock travel to get the front ride height even with the back. Don't worry about the back, the back is fine with the .36's. Although you might want to consider threaded shock bodies for the front and rear so you can make ride height adjustments on a fly. This is what I've done to level out the car.

FRONT
.36" threaded shock bodies
.28" shock shafts(regular flavored not titanium coated)
Cut half the threads off the the .28" shock shafts with a dremel tool.
Cut 2mm's off the front shock shaft eyelet(the peice the steel ball goes through) to gain more "uptravel".

REAR
.36" threaded shock bodies
.36" shock shafts(again, regular flavored)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Use the collars on the shock body to set your ride height. Use the droop screws in the bumpers to set your droop. *TIP* Set your droop first then your ride height and double check your droop after setting your ride height. The front droop screws are in the front bumper and tend to flex which will sometimes give a false droop reading. If the droop is a lower number after setting your ride height, loosen the collars, set your droop 1 number higher on the gauge and adjust the collars back the same. Now check your droop. The rear isn't that bad as the front. I've been racing this car ever since it's debut and I love it.
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Old 06-14-2002, 11:38 PM   #2980
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as far as the weight for the alluminum verses the hot mod tc3 dogbones the tc3 dogbones dont bend and are only 10 bucks pluss the longer poles 3 bucks and lil' washers 1 buck also there lighter still than the allu.,
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Old 06-14-2002, 11:43 PM   #2981
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 As far as the fact the kenwald has holes in his car .... why waist your time when your car is under weight ahen you could b becomin a better driver that goes out to the mad dog guy that keeps crashin
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Old 06-15-2002, 12:40 AM   #2982
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what have you guys been setting your vehicles on to set your droop when using the losi stock droop gauge?
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Old 06-15-2002, 12:41 AM   #2983
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Also, when you start to setup droop, is a zero droop level the point where the chassis is even with the zero degree mark on the droop gauge? I am alittle confused by all this droop stuff.
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Old 06-15-2002, 12:44 AM   #2984
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Quote:
Originally posted by bumpity3xs
 As far as the fact the kenwald has holes in his car .... why waist your time when your car is under weight ahen you could b becomin a better driver that goes out to the mad dog guy that keeps crashin
A lighter car is a quicker car and you can also add the weight in places that may help the set up. Maybe more weight in the front gives more steering or weight in the rear etc......
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Old 06-15-2002, 02:08 AM   #2985
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cain
what have you guys been setting your vehicles on to set your droop when using the losi stock droop gauge?
Set the gauge onto the chassis and slide it out till you reach your measurement points as illustrated in the manual. The front points are the bottom of the set screw boss located at the bottom of the spindles. For the rear use the bottom of the set screw boss in the hubs. More droop(lower number on gauge) is better for low-bite conditions and will make the car easier to drive but we be sluggish and slow. Less droop(higher on gauge) is better for high-bite conditions where you need to get rid of traction which will make the car react faster and we become harder to drive as you keep decreasing droop.
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