Losi XXX-S
#2716
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Jared- I agree with diesel31....you might be running too soft of an insert. I always run Yokomo firm inserts in all of my 138G tire's. With the track temps you posted I would drop down to the regular 138G's with a yokomo firm insert. The GF should kick in at track temps above 125. It also depends on your driving style. If you pitch the car into the corners the tire's will heat up quicker so the harder (GF) would be the tire of choice for those conditions.
#2717
Thanks guys for all the typing today. Been extreemly helpful. I'm going to try to get a hold of some Pits and Sorex tires and if I got the extra money I'll get some Take Offs too to try out.
One question though. Is diesel31 refering to this part number when refering to the Yokomo firm then insert the following? I just wanted to make sure.
ZR-039F New!! Yokomo molded tire inserts (Firm, thin)
If it is, of course Horizon has it out of stock, as usual with about everything I usually need.
One question though. Is diesel31 refering to this part number when refering to the Yokomo firm then insert the following? I just wanted to make sure.
ZR-039F New!! Yokomo molded tire inserts (Firm, thin)
If it is, of course Horizon has it out of stock, as usual with about everything I usually need.
#2718
Tech Apprentice
jared,
yokomo has a firm, and a new version in the firm thin. it gives a little more air gap.
yokomo has a firm, and a new version in the firm thin. it gives a little more air gap.
#2719
Tech Apprentice
It also depends on your driving style. If you pitch the car into the corners the tire's will heat up quicker
when i pitch and slide, my tires wear so much faster. in the past few months, i've adjusted my driving style to not be as agressive, and it's actually made me feel more in control.
of course, if you've gotta chase 'em down - sometimes pitchin' and slidin' is the only way to go!
when i pitch and slide, my tires wear so much faster. in the past few months, i've adjusted my driving style to not be as agressive, and it's actually made me feel more in control.
of course, if you've gotta chase 'em down - sometimes pitchin' and slidin' is the only way to go!
#2721
My main focus in R/C is off-road. This parking lot touring thing is just really for something different in the summer! That should answer the question about how much I pitch it in the corners. LOL
#2722
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Originally posted by Jared Kirkwood
Thanks guys for all the typing today. Been extreemly helpful. I'm going to try to get a hold of some Pits and Sorex tires and if I got the extra money I'll get some Take Offs too to try out.
One question though. Is diesel31 refering to this part number when refering to the Yokomo firm then insert the following? I just wanted to make sure.
ZR-039F New!! Yokomo molded tire inserts (Firm, thin)
If it is, of course Horizon has it out of stock, as usual with about everything I usually need.
Thanks guys for all the typing today. Been extreemly helpful. I'm going to try to get a hold of some Pits and Sorex tires and if I got the extra money I'll get some Take Offs too to try out.
One question though. Is diesel31 refering to this part number when refering to the Yokomo firm then insert the following? I just wanted to make sure.
ZR-039F New!! Yokomo molded tire inserts (Firm, thin)
If it is, of course Horizon has it out of stock, as usual with about everything I usually need.
ZR-037F I haven't tried the new inserts yet since I still have a wall full of these inserts.
#2723
rear toe block most often affect the stability and rear traction of the car. i've only raced losi-s on carpet so thats where this is coming from. When i took toe out of the car it got physically faster in a straitline. and it freed up the car. but when i went too far the rear end wasent a stable and the car wanted to dive in and then set but i lost some corner speed due to the late setting of the rear end. my favorite setting so far is half degree toe blocks flipped to take 1 deg total out of the car. when i went to 2 deg. thats when it wasent as stable. when traction rises (big race) i may try 1deg blocks flipped to take 2 deg out, but normally it isint stable enough. when i left the stock blocks in the car, the rear end wasent fast enough for me and it wasent pushing but it wasent free either. sorry for the long explaination but thats my trial. any other expierences?
#2724
Tech Apprentice
i like the way the 1/2 deg. blocks reversed free up the rear end, but if you check the rear toe-in, you'll notice that the blocks aren't manufactured to the best specs. when i checked it on my integy gauge, i noticed that the rear right had about 1 deg. less toe in than the left side. i may have gotten a bad batch, so i may still get another set and try again. for conveniece's sake, i've gone back to the stock blocks.
i do agree that the 1/2 deg. do loosen up the rear end a bit, and that might be helpful for straight away speed and high-bite surfaces.
i do agree that the 1/2 deg. do loosen up the rear end a bit, and that might be helpful for straight away speed and high-bite surfaces.
#2725
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Thanks for the comments on the rear blocks guys. Are you guys using the 1/2 blocks reversed in stock AND mod or just stock only? One of the things I like about the Losi is the fact that it's so planted even with mad horsepower strapped in. I'm afraid that by going to the 1/2 degree blocks I'll start having problems with the rear wanting to swap ends with the front on tight turns. Is the freeing up of the rear end rather abrupt or more like a predictable smooth break?
#2726
Tech Apprentice
haven't tried mod. i run stock, but lately 19t so that i become accustomed to the speed for the reedy race. it should work pretty well for mod, though.
#2727
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
Here's what I've noticed about the rear hub carriers...
First, Diesel31 is correct, the carriers don't seem to be made with the greatest precision. I've found that most every XXX-S I've been able to check has between a half a degree to one degree more toe-in at the left rear than the right. I wasn't sure where the discrepancy was, so I cut some long rods from 3/32 music wire (the same diameter as the outer hingepin) and found that the arms and the holes in the arms seem to align properly, but the holes in the hub carriers are not quite perfect.
To fix the problem, I run a 1/2 degree block on one side and a zero on the other. I can run a half degree right block on the left and a zero on the right and I get around 1.5 per side, or I can move the half degree right block to the right side and the zero on the left and get around 2 degrees per side.
The car seems to be happiest for me with 2 degrees per side. Reducing to 1.5 per side frees up the rear, but more than I'd like. The car seems to pitch on the corner entry and scrubs a lot of speed before the apex. With 2 degrees per side the car seems to corner better for me.
I've run the car both on carpet with foams and on asphalt with rubber, and in both cases, the car is better for me with 2 degrees per side. I also tried 2.5 per side and found it planted the rear too much... the car didn't want to rotate and felt very lazy in the turns.
At the moment, I'm getting the best results keeping to 2 degrees toe in back, and fine tuning the rear with droop and the outer camber link ballstud height. It just seems that anything but 2 degrees in back produces too drastic a change for me.
Trips
First, Diesel31 is correct, the carriers don't seem to be made with the greatest precision. I've found that most every XXX-S I've been able to check has between a half a degree to one degree more toe-in at the left rear than the right. I wasn't sure where the discrepancy was, so I cut some long rods from 3/32 music wire (the same diameter as the outer hingepin) and found that the arms and the holes in the arms seem to align properly, but the holes in the hub carriers are not quite perfect.
To fix the problem, I run a 1/2 degree block on one side and a zero on the other. I can run a half degree right block on the left and a zero on the right and I get around 1.5 per side, or I can move the half degree right block to the right side and the zero on the left and get around 2 degrees per side.
The car seems to be happiest for me with 2 degrees per side. Reducing to 1.5 per side frees up the rear, but more than I'd like. The car seems to pitch on the corner entry and scrubs a lot of speed before the apex. With 2 degrees per side the car seems to corner better for me.
I've run the car both on carpet with foams and on asphalt with rubber, and in both cases, the car is better for me with 2 degrees per side. I also tried 2.5 per side and found it planted the rear too much... the car didn't want to rotate and felt very lazy in the turns.
At the moment, I'm getting the best results keeping to 2 degrees toe in back, and fine tuning the rear with droop and the outer camber link ballstud height. It just seems that anything but 2 degrees in back produces too drastic a change for me.
Trips
#2729
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
I would not suggest replacing front arm parts with aluminum unless it's absolutely necessary. Reason being aluminum will bend with a hard hit and then your front end will be out of whack. If you are experiencing a lot of broken front end parts you might want to try putting a BRP front bumper on the car along with some stiff foam to cushion the blows.
Another question for those of you who drive this car with foams on carpet. What can you do to get more steering out of the car? I ran into a little problem this weekend with trying to find a little more overall steering, but I didn't want to lose the planted feel the car offered. Here's the set up I was using.......
Front:
Losi Black Springs
57 pistons with 70 wt oil
Shocks in # 2 hole on tower
Camber link position #3
2 degree caster blocks
2 front kick up block
-1/2 camber
0 degree toe
Arms middle
High Roll Center
Plaid foams
Back:
Losi Purple Springs
56 pistons with 50 wt oil
Shocks in #2 hole on tower and outside on arms
Camber location 1 on tower B on carrier
2 degree antisquat block
-1/2 degree camber
Stock rear hub carriers
Arms middle
High Roll Center
Purple Foams
5mm ride height all the way around with batteries spaced to the front.
I'm thinking that maybe the first thing I should try is to shorten the rear camber link. Any suggestions?
Another question for those of you who drive this car with foams on carpet. What can you do to get more steering out of the car? I ran into a little problem this weekend with trying to find a little more overall steering, but I didn't want to lose the planted feel the car offered. Here's the set up I was using.......
Front:
Losi Black Springs
57 pistons with 70 wt oil
Shocks in # 2 hole on tower
Camber link position #3
2 degree caster blocks
2 front kick up block
-1/2 camber
0 degree toe
Arms middle
High Roll Center
Plaid foams
Back:
Losi Purple Springs
56 pistons with 50 wt oil
Shocks in #2 hole on tower and outside on arms
Camber location 1 on tower B on carrier
2 degree antisquat block
-1/2 degree camber
Stock rear hub carriers
Arms middle
High Roll Center
Purple Foams
5mm ride height all the way around with batteries spaced to the front.
I'm thinking that maybe the first thing I should try is to shorten the rear camber link. Any suggestions?
Last edited by Schuie Driver; 05-21-2002 at 05:30 PM.
#2730
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
You might want to try purples on the front. You could also try one set stiffer spring on the front.