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Old 05-02-2002, 08:03 AM   #2641
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Thanks for the replies guys:

I just re-read my post and realized some people may interpret what I said differently than I meant (i know I would have).

anyways, I guess I need to first say that the car is very close to being just right. I am still in the top 3 with this setup. When I said I can't get it to turn, I really just meant, I can't pinch the corners like I want to. I have a TC3 killing me on corner speed.

I did have the car setup with 4 degree caster blocks and OF. I had just changed to 2F to hopefully get a little more turn-in but no luck.


I think the first thing I'm going to do is soften the car up to blues all the way around and put in the one-way. I'll see how this does and let you guys know.


If that doesn't work, I will probably try the Rosseti setup with the underdrive in the rear like ttr suggested.
Does anyone know the sping rates for the orange and whites in this setup. I can't seem to locate that information anywhere.

TTR:

Where you using rubber or foam tires? what compounds?


I'll keep you all posted.


still curious about what the low roll center in the rear by itself does for the car. I have the blocks and the rear is easy to change.
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Old 05-02-2002, 09:32 AM   #2642
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I used the RR setup with rubber, Take Off CS27 and medium inserts, 11 turn Orion Core motor. The track I race on is semi prepared tarmack (swept, sometimes a bit of sugar water) with medium grip, some bumps and tight turns. A real one-way is very twitchy at the end of the long (150 feet) main straight where is a tight hairpin with nasty bumps at the outer side.

If you have the time try to move the front shocks in the outer position, this will give more initial turn in. (at least it works for me) It seems to me, that your setup gives more stabilty than corner speed.

I would be very interested to read more on the handling of the car with the low roll-center mods. I don't know if this mod could help to gain more grip on low/medium grip tracks.
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Old 05-02-2002, 10:24 AM   #2643
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Losi 1.15" spring rates white 7.6 lb, orange 8.6 lb
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Old 05-02-2002, 10:42 AM   #2644
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As a reply to what the low roll center does in the rear of the car, I guess the best way to describe it is that it sures up the rear end. I had been having a lot of trouble keeping the rear end from breaking loose so I just thought, why not. I actually tried it because I bought the lot of TRIMF aluminum stuff that was for sale and the rear LRC was included. Here is my current setup.

Front:
Toe in '1/2, Camber '1, Carrier '0
Sway bar-none
Arm spacing forward
Front diff with standard pulley
Ride height 5mm
Droop 2mm
Pivot support 2F
Upper tower #2
Lower tower #2
Oil 50wt
Stock piston
Blue Losi springs
Limiters place on steering blocks to keep CVD's from binding.

Rear:
Toe '2, Camber '1, Pivot support 0R
Droop 8mm-10mm
Arm spacing middle
Sway bar none
Upper tower #2
Lower tower #1
Outer hole on rear carrier
Outer hole on arm
Oil 50wt
Stock piston
Blue Losi springs
Low roll center on rear only. Belt ran fairly loose.
Battery placed forward.
Gearing 116/87 64pitch.
Tires vary.
Transponder above servo.
The gearing is for stock and so is the belt tension. If you want any more info LMK.
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Old 05-02-2002, 10:45 AM   #2645
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Make that gearing 116/31 64p or 87/23 48p.
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Old 05-05-2002, 03:37 PM   #2646
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Whats a good set up for a bumpy tight track?
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Old 05-05-2002, 07:03 PM   #2647
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can anyone tell how much the stock chasis weigh and how much lighter is the graphite.
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Old 05-06-2002, 10:53 AM   #2648
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what is a good rule of thumb to get a good gear mesh(64p). i used to do the piece of paper trick, but can quite do that with the xxxs.


joe.
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Old 05-06-2002, 10:54 AM   #2649
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I just remove the yellow plug in the chassis, and set mesh visually.

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Old 05-06-2002, 12:39 PM   #2650
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For 64P, I usually just jam the gears together and then back off a bit until there is a slight play in the mesh. I haven't had any problems yet with it.
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Old 05-06-2002, 01:58 PM   #2651
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Quote:
Originally posted by futureal
For 64P, I usually just jam the gears together and then back off a bit until there is a slight play in the mesh. I haven't had any problems yet with it.
LOL futureal... I like that slam the gears together...this is basically what i have done too and it works for me.
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Old 05-06-2002, 02:12 PM   #2652
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the thing I don't like is havig to remove the gear cover everytime I mesh the gears. I have always moved the spur back and forth with my finger to see how much play there is, with the xxx-s the only way is to remove the cover. I might try just rocking the car on the table back and forth next time.
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Old 05-06-2002, 02:19 PM   #2653
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I just rotate the rear tires, so i can see the play. The only time i ever remove the cover is to see if it's centered on the gear.

-Troy
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Old 05-06-2002, 02:43 PM   #2654
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newracer do you not use the "little yellow door" to check for gear mesh?? Thats what I do and like Troy said the only time i take the gear cover off is to make sure the two are inline with each other.
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Old 05-06-2002, 02:55 PM   #2655
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I NEVER remove the clear plastic cover unless I need to get at the tensioner or change the spur. To set gear mesh with either 48 pitch or 64, I just remove the little yellow access door and look at the mesh visually. By rocking the rear tires back and forth slightly you should be able to see the spur move. If it doesn't you are too tight. If the mesh is too loose you'll see the spur move a pretty large amount. I just set mine so that the spur BARELY rocks back and forth at the tightest spot of the mesh.

On another note, I ran the car again in mod this past weekend at an outdoor asphalt track with foam tires. Car was absolutely fantastic and was VERY planted. Now if I could just learn not to overshoot every corner I'd be in good shape
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