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Old 04-20-2002, 08:27 PM   #2581
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I ran the Losi for the first time today but it did not snap off the line like I expected it to. Installed I have a GM3, Tekin G10, belt looooose, 86/24 gearing. It was at a FDR that was suitable for the track I ran on. Diffs were fine to me, there was not any slip yet the diffs were very smooth. The settings are medium in the rear, and medium-tight in the front. Let me know if you need other info.

It cornered great! It was very easy to drive and carried a lot of speed through the turns. I am pleased, very pleased.
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Old 04-20-2002, 09:02 PM   #2582
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Talking losi

yo does anyone have the hudy setup board 4 a cheap price i need on bad also im sellling my xxx-s for 150$ wth everything graphite gold tit. hinge pins titanium turnbuckles and full ball bearing upgrade and a big case of parts all of the stock parts too
reply if you want it im serious dont mess with me ok??
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Old 04-20-2002, 09:03 PM   #2583
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Default swithched

i have the factory team tc3 and it is very fast and the losi's cant keep up why is that i think you need to switch to the big long shaft!!!! just kidding anyone want my car??
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Old 04-20-2002, 09:07 PM   #2584
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FactoryteamTc3 :: Dude!!!! Go away! I've seen your post on the other threads. Give it a rest all ready. I know all about the TC3, I had two of them. They are fine cars, but you are not all that so take a hike. I will get Mike_Web on you if you don't quit!
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Old 04-21-2002, 05:03 PM   #2585
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The Losi was really fast today. I tried the one-way in the rear and it worked fine. The car seemed faster down the straight and the motor ran cooler than normal. I jumped up two teeth for the third qual and a screw backed out of the bottom left spindle causing me to slam into a turn.

For the main, I ran the same gearing 86/27, overdrive diff up front , standard pulley on the one way in the rear, and it was a rocket. I temped the motor (P2k) after the race at 134 degrees.

More later.
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Last edited by RCCadet; 04-21-2002 at 08:43 PM.
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Old 04-21-2002, 06:35 PM   #2586
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Default thanks guys!

thanks to all who gave me feedback on my issues earlier in the week.

---glad to report no spins on acceleration, no pulling to one side, and i am now trying to dial out the pushing in turns.

i am debating the purchase of low roll parts. will these parts eliminate my push in turns? if so do i need 0/4 and 2 or just one of them? what have gotten myself into!?!?

thanks in advance.
joe.
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Old 04-21-2002, 06:44 PM   #2587
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Default low turn motors

As it turns out, the fast mod guys at my lhs (aka the only wons I can't beat on a given day) run really low turn motors. 8,9,10 - even less! Since I am a converted off road guy, I didn't have anything less than 14 2x/ or 3x. One of those guys (sponsored by ready) lent me a 9/double, man that made a big difference. Although we got rained out, and I didn't get to run the motor with a clock running, I am sure that narrowed the gap considerably, putting driving ability back in play, instead of horsepower.

He told me to cut the motor every run, and replace the brushes every other heat race and before the A-main.

I don't want to buy a $60 motor that I need to replace 3 pairs brushes and an armature every weekend. It's bad enough that I go through a set of tires every week.

So what I am asking is: Does anyone run these low turn motors? I am all for taking care of my equipment, but I am not interested in spending +$100/ week in consumables. What do you guys do to your low turn motors for maintenence?

Thanks.
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Old 04-21-2002, 07:16 PM   #2588
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Why would you need to replace the armature every weekend? You gotta remember that if you are cutting your mods every third run or so you are only removing a VERY small amount from the comm.

As for brushes, I know there are some out there that can be run up to 6 times before needing to be replaced. (I'll try to find the manufacturer and part number.) They lose a little in performance toward the end of their life but it's not REAL bad.
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Old 04-21-2002, 08:40 PM   #2589
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Schuie,
I don't want to replace the arm every week. It was the recommendation of the driver. I gues I would replace them every week if I were being paid to run them ...

Obviously I really don't know how often they need to be cut. I don't have a set schedule for my current mods, I eyeball them. If they look ugly, then they get cut. I replace brushes every weekend, which is between 4 and 6 runs, depending on how hot it is outside (or if my gearing is off a bit).

Do you run any low turn motors? How often do you find yourself cutting?
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Old 04-21-2002, 08:55 PM   #2590
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new2xxxs,

I've run 9 and ten turn mods in touring cars, and I cut the comms every 2 runs when I run Reedy Quasar brushes, and every run if I use a more aggressive brush.

Even cutting the comm every run I'd get most of a season on an armature. I don't see how you can equate cutting the comm every run to replacing the arm every race.

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Old 04-22-2002, 07:45 AM   #2591
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trips, shuie,
Thanks for your real experiences. I don't know if I was getting any mumbo jumbo or what. It is amazing how much faster those motors are.
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Old 04-22-2002, 08:51 AM   #2592
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You could use some of the tribo com drops on your motors. Just a small drop is all you need. I ran them in a 10x2 with Quasar brushes and foams on my sedan. I ran it 6 times and the motor came off the track cool and the com was not in bad shape, just needed a com stick and motor spray to clean it up. I was really pleased with the results. It has also been reported that Mike Reedy also uses these drops.
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Old 04-22-2002, 12:12 PM   #2593
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Default Some setup questions.

I figured I would post some stuff just thinking out loud. Yesterday was the first time I've gotten to run the touring car in months on he new Coyote Hobbies parking lot track. The racing day was cut short because some rain showers rolled in to spoil our fun and I didn't get to try all the tires and changes I was wanting to do.

Anyways, I had slight push coming off the turns under hard acceleration. Oddly enough I think the oneway would be the correct fix but I'm going to try to stay away from it and learn the car because the one-way won't be fast at other venues some of us will be visiting later this summer. I think the answer will be to play with the shock and camber link positions some to get the car to generate a bit more traction. I also want to get the car to switch directions a bit faster for me as the car didn't go trough the small S-sections like I would have expected it too, especially the one over at the right far end of the track. I kinda think this will be fixed when I rid my car of the slight push. There was also a slight push coming off speed after the strait.

What adjustments do some of you guys use to generate more on-power steering and rotation in the middle part of the turns? I have some ideas but like I said I just wanted to think out loud for a bit until the next race.

Here's a copy of the setup I ran yesterday. Click for bigger image.
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Old 04-22-2002, 04:13 PM   #2594
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How weight much does the whole conversion kit remove? I just intalled mine, and did not put the car on the scales before... and im obviously not going to convert it back just to check.

Curious minds would like to know.

-Troy
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Old 04-22-2002, 07:10 PM   #2595
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i plan to get matt francis or dynamite aluminum suspension parts (arms, blocks/pivots, knuckes, etc.) will they work with each other? even with the stock parts? im on a budget so i might get a pair of arms first, then the blocks/pivots, and so on. also, i saw the dynamite aluminum blocks/pivots with delrin balls (for the hinge pins, i think). are they replaceable? do you guys know the part nos. for those balls? if ever i get the blocks, i might order additional delrin balls. I havent seen the matt francis aluminum pivots yet. do they also have those delrin balls? or do the hinge pins ride directly on them? thanks for any info
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